What else to reload 308 ammo?

[SidecarFlip]

So is the precision mic set a useful thing to get? and the hornady comparator set i added says its designed to be used with something else too. Can someone please explain what the difference is between the hornady comparator and this:

Redding Instant Indicator Comparator Dial 308 Winchester

And heres a link to my list again:

MidwayUSA - Wish List

Is there anything that anybody can think of that ill still need other that the ammo components? Or is there anything that i really dont need or is a waste of money or is almost the same as something else or needs something else to work?

Ive been trying to research on my own but when people start talking about headspace and ogive and measuring all that and the chamber i get confused.

Do i still need a comparator if i get the precision mic? Should i even get the mic?

You need the KNOWLEDGE. That was in the first few posts. Having all the tools and the components does nothing without some first hand knowledge. I know you are hell bent on equipment but you need the loading manuals and a couple trips to your library and do some reading FIRST.

At least you are loading for and shooting centerfire cartridges so those little holes on each side of the receiver will save your *** when you overcharge a case and if you undercharge or fail to properly seat a projectile, you'll be driving it out of the bore with a cleaning rod.

Just stay away from black powder. No holes in the receiver for that.

 

[Devestator]

I know i need knowledge... But the RCBS supreme kit comes with a reloading manual, and i know of a guy that reloads 223, so im planning on tryin to head over there at some point, either way, i still need the equipment and im GOING to reload at some point one way or the other. And thats why im asking about what people use/like/dont like. even if i knew how to do it i dont wanna buy stuff just to find out its junk...

 

[SidecarFlip]

INO, the only junk you'll get is at Harbor Freight.

I don't really want to open a can of worms but if you are ultimately planning on F Class competiton, you might as well start out with the proper dies as far as concentricity is concerned and that isn't RCBS or Hornady or Lee. It's Redding bushing dies but you need the brass and bullets on hand to ascertain the proper neck tension to order the correct bushings.

Not all dies sets are created equal and not all die sets have the expander ball in concentric alignment with the sizing bore. I'd get the standard die sets and then get bushing dies after you get your feet wet. You can always sell the standard dies. Flea Bay has 'em everyday. So does the buy-sell section of this forum.

We all have personal preferences, in my case I like the Redding FL and NS dies but I like the RCBS Competition front load bullet seater so I buy my die sets piecemeal. I also like the Lee collet crimpers and I crimp all my rounds that I use in magazine fed rifles.... Thats just me.

Finally, everyone says the spray can lube is crap but I've never stuck a case using the Hornady One-Shot with a zip lock bag and 50 brass or so. Spray and shake works for me.

Some may agree and some not but what works for me, might not work for you.

Thats why those little holes are in your receiver................

 

[MTBULLET]

first of all, only believe HALF of the "information" you get on the net.
Find a willing reloader and learn from them after READING several reloading tomes.
As for Winchester brass, my .308 will shoot 1/2 MOA to 700 yds. with it.

 

[MudRunner2005]

What on earth is the issue with a Redding case trimmer. I have one and use the hell out of it. Admittedly, I don't crank it. I got the power adaptor and use my Dewalt power screwdriver to drive it....

I agree with that to a certain extent but then I own a Rolex so Lapua Brass is just fine with me. It's the 'status' headstamp. However, I wouldn't even consider Winchester brass in any caliber.

I love my Lapua brass for my .308. They've been great so far.

Also, the ONLY Winchester brass I'll use are nickle-plated brass, b/c they don't tend to grow as badly.

 

[Greyfox]

What on earth is the issue with a Redding case trimmer. I have one and use the hell out of it. Admittedly, I don't crank it. I got the power adaptor and use my Dewalt power screwdriver to drive it....

I agree with that to a certain extent but then I own a Rolex so Lapua Brass is just fine with me. It's the 'status' headstamp. However, I wouldn't even consider Winchester brass in any caliber.

I crank and must be a lousy cranker because I get varied lengths with the RCBS/Redding depending on pressure. Not so with the Wilson. Besides, the Wilson coordinates much more nicely with a Rolex

 

[MudRunner2005]

I use a Lyman case trimmer, and it works great. Came with both crank handle and the spare one for using with a drill. Haven't tried the drill one, but the crank handle one works just fine.

 

[Bart B]

Devestator, here's what I've observed and done over decades of long range competition with .308 Win chambered rifles.


First off, buy Sierra Bullets Reloading manual, then read its info on reloading. It, in my opinion, is the best bunch of words arranged in good order to get new reloaders educated.

And check out http://www.6mmbr.com/308Win.html for more info on reloading the .308. Ignore its claim that barrels last 5000 rounds of good accuracy; 3000's been the limit for top competitors from the beginning and many won't go to the Nationals with more than 1500 rounds through their barrel.

Second, use full length sizing dies without expander balls; deprime and clean cases before sizing them. Those with bushings made by Redding or RCBS are both popular and easy to use; Sierra Bullets uses Redding's dies resizing their .308 Win. cases testing bullets for accuracy. While neck only sizing has been popular with the benchresters for decades, most have finally switched over to full length sizing. The benchrest shooter's smallest groups have not changed any significant amount, but the largest ones they shoot are now smaller. Their aggregate scores are now smaller; their average group size is tinier. Folks shooting shoulder fired .308's have done best accuracy wise with full length sizing since the early 1960's when that round was first used in competition. Full length sized cases fit the chamber better than neck only ones, especialy after 3 or more neck only sizing operations. And full length sizing dies with bushings better center the case neck on the case shoulder, too, compared to neck only dies.

Third, get an RCBS Precision Mic (or Hornady's equivalent) to measure your fired and sized cases so the die can be set to set fired case shoulders back about .001" to .002" for best accuracy and case life.

Fourth, if you could slug your bore then measure it's groove diameter, find top quality bullets that are a few ten-thousandths bigger than groove diameter. They'll shoot the most accurate. Your barrel's 1:12 twist will do best with 175 or 190 grain bullets. Seat 'em out far enough to touch the rifling; single round loading may be what you'll have to do as they may not fit in the magazine.

Fifth, use extruded powder; nobody's got consistantly good accuracy with any ball powder with the best handloads in the best rifles testing for accuracy the best way.

Sixth, shoot at least 15 shots per test group. Anything less probably won't represent what you can count on all the time.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I crank and must be a lousy cranker because I get varied lengths with the RCBS/Redding depending on pressure. Not so with the Wilson. Besides, the Wilson coordinates much more nicely with a Rolex

I knew your reply would be good. I too am a lousy cranker and the crank on the Redding gives me a blister, the main reason I went to the power adaptor ($10.00).

I get tapped out on brass. Can't afford a Wilson and Lapua together and still have a Rolex.....

 

[Devestator]

Thanks for the replies!

Bart B, I've always heard that the 1:12 is best for 150-168gr, and 1:10 is best for heavier rounds up to 180gr.

Also, is Hornadys concentricity gauge a good investment? Its sposed to measure and correct runout. Ive switched the dies im getting to the Redding 3 die set, Redding Competition Bushing 3-Die Neck Sizer Set 308 Winchester , how are these when it comes to runout? Would the concentricity gauge be worth having if i get those dies?

 

[Bart B]

I crank and must be a lousy cranker because I get varied lengths with the RCBS/Redding depending on pressure. Not so with the Wilson. Besides, the Wilson coordinates much more nicely with a Rolex

Are you referring to the case headspace (head to shoulder) that varies a lot when full length sizing fired brass?

I ain't got a Rolex, but instead the same Valjoux 72 c13 movement Rolex and others used in their watches. It's in a cheap Wittnauer windupper bought in 1960 but has increased in value 34 times what I paid for it.

 

[Bart B]

Thanks for the replies!

Bart B, I've always heard that the 1:12 is best for 150-168gr, and 1:10 is best for heavier rounds up to 180gr.

Rifle factory's frequently say that, but top ranked competitive shooters know better.

Favorites with the .308 Win case were/are as follows:

Palma rifle, 30 inch barrel, 155-gr bullets, 1:13 twist

22 inch barrel, 150's and 155's, 1:12 twist; what the M14 uses.

24 inch or longer, 1:12 inch barrel, normal loads, good with 168, 175 and 180's

24 inch barrel, hot loads, 1:12 twist great for 190's. (top long range performer in .308 Garands)

26 inch barrel, 1:11 twist; 168's reduced loads and max loads with 190's was very popular with match winners and record setters from 1963 to the late 1990's when 26 caliber took over in high power matches.

26 inch barrel 1:10 twist; great for 200 and 210 grain bullets.

26 inch barrel 1:9 twist, nice for 220 grain bullets.

28 inch barrel, 1:8 twist, marvelous for 240 and 250 grain match bullets.

Also, is Hornadys concentricity gauge a good investment? Its sposed to measure and correct runout. Ive switched the dies im getting to the Redding 3 die set, Redding Competition Bushing 3-Die Neck Sizer Set 308 Winchester , how are these when it comes to runout? Would the concentricity gauge be worth having if i get those dies?

Their neck sizing dies aren't as good as their full length ones. After 4 to 5 reloads per neck sized case, they've got to be full length sized anyway so their extra fat bodies don't interfere with the chamber walls and cause accuracy problems; that's why benchresters moved over to minimal full length sizing dies. Full length sizing dies make better runout on case necks and bullets 'cause they hold the case body firm and steady in one place while the neck's sized back down. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/668734/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die-308-winchester

Some top competitors use standard full length sizing dies with their necks lapped out so expander balls don't have to be used and claim they're better than full length bushing dies.

A good concentricity gauge is always good to have; it measures the physical quality of your ammo before your shoot it. Bullet runout up to 3 thousandths is not a problem if the bullets are seated out to crunch into the rifling when chambered. Otherwise, they need to be under 2 thousandths for runout.