What else to reload 308 ammo?

[MudRunner2005]

Don't start out buying competition dies....Just start out with the plain jane RCBS neck-sizer die set. I still use mine, and it's setup perfectly, and holds the seating depth perfectly.

But that's just my opinion.

 

[MudRunner2005]

I was actually just looking at the chargemaster 1500, it looks nice, but for $300+ that might have to be something I get at a later date lol

Also, what tumbling media should I use? I see walnut, corn cob, and steel. I'm kinda guessing steel last the longest and you can use it over and over more, but I'm also guessing that it wears the brass out faster maybe?

I'm in the process of updating my list I'll post when I'm done.

Thank you all so much for the suggestions! I would literally be lost without your help lol

Go ahead and buy the ChargeMaster 1500....It will save you money in the long run, and will make your reloading a whole lot easier and fun. Granted it will not hit dead-on everytime, but it's not hard to learn how to manipulate it to knock out a few grains and then get it right on par.

 

[Devestator]

Thanks! Now about the powder trickler, is that something i really need? Cant i just add a lil pinch or take one to get it right on? Or use a baby spoon or something?

And are competition dies harder to set up/use than normal ones? Im not usually someone that works up to more expensive stuff lol i usually try to buy the best i can the first time around

 

[MudRunner2005]

If you buy the ChargeMaster 1500 you won't need the trickler. It has a trickler feature built into it.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thanks! Now about the powder trickler, is that something i really need? Cant i just add a lil pinch or take one to get it right on? Or use a baby spoon or something?

And are competition dies harder to set up/use than normal ones? Im not usually someone that works up to more expensive stuff lol i usually try to buy the best i can the first time around

The Comp dies are not harder to use, they're just not necessary. One day I might buy just the Comp seater die, but for now, I have mine setup 100% where I want it, and it stays that way. So, no, I don't find them necessary if you have good hand control where you use a screwdriver and a box-end wrench to adjust. Just make VERY small adjustments and learn how to use your dies.

If you want the Comp dies, go for it, but I just think it's best to learn how to use the basics first, before worrying about competition style loads.

Also, let me put you onto something that I WISH someone had told me about when I first started (will save you a fair bit of money, until your dies get set where you want them).

Buy a RCBS Collett Puller, and the proper colletts (by bullet diameter). To pull the bullets out if you push one in too far, and your die isn't quite setup properly.

Your COL length will differ slightly b/c the ogive of most mass-produced bullets is rarely identical. For example, in Nosler Custom Comp or Nosler Accubonds you will find a slight variance of +/- 0.008"....So when you measure your bullets you will get different readings. Just to let you know. Nobody taught me that either, so it was something I figured out on my own.

I am not an expert and have only been reloading a very short time compared to most of these guys, but I have loaded ALOT of ammo and spent alot of time sitting at my bench and reading and studying about it.

So, I'm sure there are alot of other guys out there who can help you ALOT more than I can. Also, just b/c I do something a certain way, or make a suggestion, does NOT mean it's the same for everyone, or that it's the god's honest truth. I also don't like to give out load info, even if it comes straight out of the Nosler 7 manual, just b/c crap happens, and I don't want to feel responsible if something bad were to happen. Know what i mean?

 

[Devestator]

I did add the RCBS impact bullet puller to the list, looks like a little hammer thing, is that what you mean?

 

[MudRunner2005]

Double post.....

My internet and mouse keep acting up...

 

[MudRunner2005]

No, the RCBS Collett Puller screws into your press like a die, and has a collett inserted into it. You use your press to remove bullets instead of smacking them like the hammer style ones, which I have always been leary about.

RCBS Collet Bullet Puller

And for .308 you'll need his collet for it.

RCBS Collet Bullet Puller Collet 30 Cal (308 Diameter)

 

[Viking]

I was actually just looking at the chargemaster 1500, it looks nice, but for $300+ that might have to be something I get at a later date lol

Also, what tumbling media should I use? I see walnut, corn cob, and steel. I'm kinda guessing steel last the longest and you can use it over and over more, but I'm also guessing that it wears the brass out faster maybe?

I'm in the process of updating my list I'll post when I'm done.

Thank you all so much for the suggestions! I would literally be lost without your help lol

I use walnut that I get from a local pet store with a couple capfulls of Dillon Rapid polish. Walnut and corn cob are natural bedding materials for small pets and birds. Most pet stores carry them cheap and in large quantity. The walnut cleans better and corn cob polishes better. I know some guys that like brass to really shine, but it is not my priority.

The stainless is great because it uses cheap dish soap, lasts forever and does a great job. I don't use it as it requires water, could leak and I don't want to deal with the mess or the drying. Never say never though as I could be convinced in the future if walnut or corncob ever get difficult to find.

 

[Viking]

Thanks! Now about the powder trickler, is that something i really need? Cant i just add a lil pinch or take one to get it right on? Or use a baby spoon or something?

And are competition dies harder to set up/use than normal ones? Im not usually someone that works up to more expensive stuff lol i usually try to buy the best i can the first time around

The trickler is pretty inexpensive ($12-$20) and lets you add one grain at a time if needed.

Competition dies have better/ easier micro adjustments. I use the Redding Type S Match dies in my .308 setup since I can change between 168 and 175 seating with a twist of the micrometer. Each "click" is .001 inch in seating depth. This only matters since I keep my dies in a seperate tool head for my Dillon and I don't have to reset everything each time I load.

 

[Devestator]

I was just re-reading through all the pages to make sure i didnt forget to add anything, and i did. I just added the stuck case remover. i also realized i never added a comparator. i dont know exactly what these do or what kind to get, i see a redding one that looks like it includes some type of comparator die, but thats $120, and then i see a hornady comparator set for $30?? What one should i get and what do they do?

I also added a RCBS precision mic, is this a good thing to get?

 

[tomt]

I have the Hornady Bullet Conparator. It fastens to the jaw of the caliper and comes with several inserts. When you are seating bullets a certian distance of of the lands, you want to know what the length is from the base of the case to the ogive of the bullet. Measuring off the bullet meplat is not consistant.

 

[Devestator]

So is the precision mic set a useful thing to get? and the hornady comparator set i added says its designed to be used with something else too. Can someone please explain what the difference is between the hornady comparator and this:

Redding Instant Indicator Comparator Dial 308 Winchester

And heres a link to my list again:

MidwayUSA - Wish List

Is there anything that anybody can think of that ill still need other that the ammo components? Or is there anything that i really dont need or is a waste of money or is almost the same as something else or needs something else to work?

Ive been trying to research on my own but when people start talking about headspace and ogive and measuring all that and the chamber i get confused.

Do i still need a comparator if i get the precision mic? Should i even get the mic?

 

[SidecarFlip]

I just set up my son in law who had never reloaded. Took about a week for him to produced match grade ammo. I did walk him through the process and had him read my old Sierra reloading manual. You list is fine to get started. Some additions to your list:

A body dye or full length sizer dye in addition to your neck dye.
A case trimmer. Either a dye/file type, or if lathe , Wilson, not iRCBS/Redding.
A tumbler and media to clean your cases.
A bullet puller
A stuck case remover

After a few firings your cases WILL need to be trimmed and resized. I agree with a prior post. In 308 the only difference you see between Lapua and Winchester brass will be the weight of your wallet. You will definitely find out why a tumbler is a good investment.IMHO.

What on earth is the issue with a Redding case trimmer. I have one and use the hell out of it. Admittedly, I don't crank it. I got the power adaptor and use my Dewalt power screwdriver to drive it....

I agree with that to a certain extent but then I own a Rolex so Lapua Brass is just fine with me. It's the 'status' headstamp. However, I wouldn't even consider Winchester brass in any caliber.