What does this grouping mean?

Go to Krieger barrels or even Shilen like their FAQ http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10

Personally with a new barrel I follow the cleaning regimen clean after each shot for the 1st 5 shots, then clean every 5 rounds for the next 10 strings. I check for copper fouling after I've fired the first 10 rounds, and then check for copper again after the next 20. If it looks good after that- I shoot until it shows me signs it needs attention, or I put it away for storage.

I focus on keeping my action area clean and the outside of the gun is properly tended to.

In a humid environment like it was in WV- I cleaned and oiled my barrels more frequently due to conditions. But in Montana I just don't need to worry so much about it.

You will see a lot of opinions on the matter, and that's okay. Honestly I would never disagree on the subject. I tend to follow a regimen for break in and let the actual conditions of the barrel and the shot accuracy dictate what to do.


I did shoot one then clean for 5 rounds in a row, then I shot a string of 5, cleaned, shot one then cleaned for 5 rounds, then shot a 5 round string and cleaned and called it good. Then I did my 20 rounds of load development without cleaning and then cleaned after. Would you do any more break in after what I did, or would you call it good?
 
I did shoot one then clean for 5 rounds in a row, then I shot a string of 5, cleaned, shot one then cleaned for 5 rounds, then shot a 5 round string and cleaned and called it good. Then I did my 20 rounds of load development without cleaning and then cleaned after. Would you do any more break in after what I did, or would you call it good?

You're looking for signs of copper fouling. You want to make sure the chamber reamer 'stuff' is honed out by shooting, and copper really grabs that stuff and lays down right after the chamber and near the muzzle end.

Watch Sam at Panhandle Precision. He's pretty sensible.
 
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It sounds like your regimen is sound, I would just slow it down after you see no signs of copper fouling. I've found, in my shooting, a powder fouled bore just means diddly up until a point at which groups fall apart. But I will say this- I am not a 1,000 yard shooter or even a 800 yard shooter- other than funsies. There are a lot of guys that do shoot pretty extreme ranges and I'm sure they have valuable advice. I'd like to get to that point someday so I'll listen to them.

But for an average schmo like me, shooting a decent rifle at ranges considered non-extreme, well I just don't see a lot of upside to rigorous barrel cleaning.

Not to mention I hated, I mean HATED stripping and cleaning my service weapon to pristine condition after every trip to the firing line. Call me jaded, lol.
 
Update:

Went to the range with my wife today. She did her first attempt at load testing, which was fun and successful, I think.

I also worked more on some loads with my Tikka version #2, with the new staball powder.

I repeated the 60.0gr loads that I did last time with 3 groups of 4, and also did a load of 61.0gr and 61.5gr. My bore was cleaned to white from after the last time I shot, So I did two foulers top center on the target. I shot all my loads by groups, no round robin this time. My barrel got warm by the end of each group, but not hot.

I think I'm either likely flinching sometimes, or I'm doing something with my hand loads that causes fliers. I couldn't find any match ammo at the stores and I completely forgot to have my wife do the dummy cartridge trick for me.

My hands for extremely cold by the last two groups, and I always forget me it hard to execute shots when that happens because I can't feel how much pressure I'm putting on the trigger. I don't think my 61.5 load will do, but it's possible 61.0 is alright but I flinched or something. Looking at my 60.0 groups, it looks like if the poi shifts, it's up and to the right. I really think it could be either a flinch or a slight difference in my hold pressure. I WON'T be cleaning my bore before the next trip! And I'll repeat the 60.0hr loads. We'll see how it goes!
 

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Ryan,

Do you feel like you are aim the rifle when you get behind it at all? I believe the issue is either rear bag pressure and/or shoulder pressure.

Next time you shoot, try getting the rifle to naturally aim at the bullseye. Once there, get behind the rifle and lightly pull back with your trigger hand (to simulate recoil), if the crosshairs move off the bullseye, do not reposition the rifle, but reposition yourself behind the rifle until the crosshairs don't move off the bullseye.

I think you will see less right/left grouping bud.

Good luck,
Steve
 
Ryan: I really want to help because I think I can. Usually if you feel like you may be flinching--you are. Do you have a good .22 Long Rifle that you can shoot at 50 yards? If so, it can be really valuable to help you diagnose any flinching and improve your shooting in a big way. Not kidding at all. Whenever I shoot centerfire and get groups such as you are showing, I get my CZ 452 .22 and shoot it until my marksmanship gets back into form and then I can go back to my centerfire rifle and absolutely rock it. Try it if you have a good shooting 22. And if ya don't, get one. It is an essential tool for gaining and maintaining superb marksmanship chops. No joke. Shooting targets like this at 25 yards will make you a better shooter at longer ranges with centerfires.
46aDx6Th.jpg
 
Ryan,

Do you feel like you are aim the rifle when you get behind it at all? I believe the issue is either rear bag pressure and/or shoulder pressure.

Next time you shoot, try getting the rifle to naturally aim at the bullseye. Once there, get behind the rifle and lightly pull back with your trigger hand (to simulate recoil), if the crosshairs move off the bullseye, do not reposition the rifle, but reposition yourself behind the rifle until the crosshairs don't move off the bullseye.

I think you will see less right/left grouping bud.

Good luck,
Steve

I see. That's a good idea. I always do have the crosshairs just below the bull before I touch the gun. Then, when I set up with my hold to shoot, my slight downward pressure from my hold and cheek move the crosshairs up to the bull.

Usually when it recoils, my barrel jumps up onto the right ear of my pedestal rest (away from my chest). So maybe the pressure of my shoulder when the trigger breaks is throwing the barrel in the direction?
 
Ryan: I really want to help because I think I can. Usually if you feel like you may be flinching--you are. Do you have a good .22 Long Rifle that you can shoot at 50 yards? If so, it can be really valuable to help you diagnose any flinching and improve your shooting in a big way. Not kidding at all. Whenever I shoot centerfire and get groups such as you are showing, I get my CZ 452 .22 and shoot it until my marksmanship gets back into form and then I can go back to my centerfire rifle and absolutely rock it. Try it if you have a good shooting 22. And if ya don't, get one. It is an essential tool for gaining and maintaining superb marksmanship chops. No joke. Shooting targets like this at 25 yards will make you a better shooter at longer ranges with centerfires.
46aDx6Th.jpg

I actually don't have a 22 of my own. I do have a little Savage 17hmr that's pretty accurate, but the trigger is awful (pre-accutrigger model) and hard to break without the gun moving, which I guess would be good for practice. I'll have to take it to the range next time I go.
 
I get my practice shooting my old Winchester target 75 with peep sights at gophers around the house. Makes me really dial in..
 
Yep, Most folks who really master marksmanship use a .22 rifle as their most important training tool. Let's you focus on fundamental skills without having your nerves jangled by magnum recoil. And then the 22 rimfire skills come into play, helping you keep your basics steady when shooting the new T-REX Ultra Improved.
 
i had a 7wby mag i was having the same issue with im guessing its stock fit after following along. thanks for all the in depth help and im not even the op.
 
I actually don't have a 22 of my own. I do have a little Savage 17hmr that's pretty accurate, but the trigger is awful (pre-accutrigger model) and hard to break without the gun moving, which I guess would be good for practice. I'll have to take it to the range next time I go.

Do You Shoot at the Lee Kay Center here in the Valley?
 
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