What does this grouping mean?

Gold metal match ammo in your caliber. What's your twist rate ?

you're only looking for shot groups, not bulls. Mind your discipline and see what you get. See my first post on this forum with a Remington 5-R and you'll get my point.
 
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They test every Tikka rifle on the factory so there shouldn't be that lemony ones... At least before all the modifications to the stock etc.

I have an decades old Tikka I couldn't get to shoot with any factory ammo, so I wouldn't do any judgements based on factory ammo. Hand loading turned it into a sub moa 5 shot rifle, which I think is a pretty realistic goal for an average shooter on a thin barreled large/mid caliber rifle. The most accurate guns are rarely seen on live the range, they usually only exist on the internet forums...

My suggestion us to start from square one. Check that the barrel is free floated. Tighten the screws. Clean the barrel and shoot a couple of fouling shots before testing. Kiss the lands or take 0.2mm back from that, or if the magazine is the limiting factor, either load to max length or single feed. Start from the min load, add e.g. 0.3gr until you reach the max, and e.g. three cartridges for each powder charge. Shoot on a still day, ensure you have a solid rest, do your best, take your time, let the barrel cool down. Use quality bullets of average weight that are known to be accurate; no cheap FMJs. Weight your powder. Use quality brass.

And be realistic about your expectations. On a MOA rifle you can in theory shoot a deer to the lungs at 1100 yards assuming no other variables, which doesn't mean one could in reality do that due to all the other varibles that come into play but a more accurate rifle doesn't control them any better. On a MOA rifle you can shoot a fox in the eye at 100 meters. People claiming 0.2 MOA accuracy seldom can repeat that, and the scope clicks are usually too large to even perfectly center that small groups. For every tiny group posted on a forum there's at least 10 that weren't that good, but they are rarely remembered and never photographed :)
 
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Well... I wouldn't be surprised if it's partly my shooting skills. I live near Salt Lake City, so if anyone that's chimed in on this thread wants to shoot with me at the range sometime, I'd be happy for the company and excited to see how well a proven "dead eye" can shoot this gun! It truly does buck
 
I wouldn't knock off your shooting skills just yet. I'm not a trophy target shooter by any means, but I'm 53, shot NRA .22 competitively as a kid, signed up for the big Green Machine and shot competitively for my unit and been shooting all my life. The key is consistent breathing, trigger control and repeat ability. Even with a crappy M-16 A1 variety circa Vietnam I scored expert in boot. My hold was always nose on the charging handle. I did well. It was repeatable, consistent and worked to the range required.

Dismiss your skill set doubts if you've shot before and get factory ammo. Good stuff.

You're trying to see if this puppy will print. For a .30-06 you should get groups that fall within that square I posted on my target. Try good, match grade ammo designed to work well with your twist rate.

I just worked up a .308 in less than 30 rounds putting 5 shots on a dime. Federal GMM 168 Sierra's were my 'benchmark'. I exceeded that in 15 rounds.

My advice is don't chase your tail on something you can't find. These are production rifles, spit out for mass purchase. Sometimes they screw up and their claims of 'MOA' accuracy don't come true. Most of the time- yes, but sometimes no.

I had one. I moved on. In fact I have a 5-R .308 and a 6.5 Creedmoor that I just bought that are 'sub moa'. And they were cheaper than that Tikka laminated SS 7mm-mag I bought. Not dissing Tikka- but the time and effort to get it where I wanted it was BS for the price I paid.

Just food for thought.
 
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I wouldn't knock off your shooting skills just yet. I'm not a trophy target shooter by any means, but I'm 53, shot NRA .22 competitively as a kid, signed up for the big Green Machine and shot competitively for my unit and been shooting all my life. The key is consistent breathing, trigger control and repeat ability. Even with a crappy M-16 A1 variety circa Vietnam I scored expert in boot. My hold was always nose on the charging handle front post only. I did well. It was repeatable, consistent and worked to the range required.

Dismiss your skill set doubts if you've shot before and get factory ammo. Good stuff.

You're trying to see if this puppy will print. For a .30-06 you should get groups that fall within that square I posted on my target. Try good, match grade ammo designed to work well with your twist rate.

I just worked up a .308 in less than 30 rounds putting 5 shots on a dime. Federal GMM 168 Sierra's were my 'benchmark'. I exceeded that in 15 rounds.

My advice is don't chase your tail on something you can't find. These are production rifles, spit out for mass purchase. Sometimes they screw up and their claims of 'MOA' accuracy don't come true. Most of the time- yes, but sometimes no.

I had one. I moved on. In fact I have a 5-R .308 and a 6.5 Creedmoor that I just bought that are 'sub moa'. And they were cheaper than that Tikka laminated SS 7mm-mag I bought. Not dissing Tikka- but the time and effort to get it where I wanted it was BS for the price I paid.

Just food for thought.


Sounds like you've done a fair bit!! I grew up slug hunting deer and occasionally squirrel hunting with a 22. Most of my hunting was archery. I never actually tried shooting my slugs for groups because they were $1.50/shot and it wasn't exactly a joy to shoot more than 3 or so at a time! I always squirrel hunted with an old abused marlin semi-auto 22 with open sights, so I never shot that for groups either. So, I don't have any marksmanship training at all. I'll have to find someone around here to help me out for a day or two.

In all honesty, that most recent target is from a new gun, identical to the one in my original post, that I bought about a week and a half ago. I have somewhat of an obsessive compulsive problem and that's a bit embarrassing to admit on here. After using the JB's paste and twisting a brush in the throat, I was convinced I may have screwed up my barrel seeing as how it shot worse and collected so much more copper. Since I really liked that rifle, I decided I would just get the same one and sell the first one or hang on to it for a someday custom gun. I thought about going with something like an xbolt hells canyon, but I didn't want spend even more money for a gun that doesn't necessarily have any better chance of shooting well, since they're both factory rifles. I figured for how much I liked my tikka rifle and how much it cost, I don't think I could find anything else in that price range that I would like more. So, anyway, I'm a bit of a nutter and maybe a glutton for punishment. Oh well.

On this new version, I DIDN'T cut the ribs out. I degreased and cleaned all scope mounting surfaces with 70% isopropyl, torqued all of that stuff to spec, and torqued my stock to about 38-40in/lbs, where tikka says up to 45in/lbs for the plastic stock. A lot of people only torque to 35in/lbs based on that aussie guy Nathan Foster's recommendation. Adjusted the trigger down to 2-2.5lbs. Cleaned the bore extremely well before shooting.

I used a factory box of winchester 165gr power points to do the break in procedure; shot one and clean, shoot one and clean, etc. I don't know if I believe that does anything, but I figured I'd do it just to be safe. After I got through that box of 20, I cleaned to white again with foaming cleaner. I planned to not put a brush through this bore unless I have to at some point.

So, after that box of 20 factory rounds, I loaded the test loads with the staball powder. After shooting those, I cleaned with the wipe out and accelerator, letting it sit over night and had almost no copper pick up from those 20. So, that's promising. I may have to see if I can find some of the federal match ammo to get a baseline, but I worry about the possibility of my gun not liking them. So, I'm not sure if I want to do that or try 10-20 rounds of my best group from the last target.
 
Okay. So it is a new rifle. Start from the very bottom and start load development all over. Don't resort back to some perceived load, you know nothing about this new rifle. Do the load work up properly.

If it still doesn't shoot well, its you. Plain and simple. Which fixing doesn't cost a thing other than practicing technique.
You'll figure it out. Leave the rifle alone at least for now. Tikka's tend to shoot well without modification and that has been confirmed in this thread.

Good luck,
Steve
 
Okay didn't read this was a second rifle..

Do you have another rifle available that has a little less oomph that what you're shooting?

How's your shoulder pocket looking after a day of shooting?

i started my hunting on squirrels as a kid too. An old Stevens single shot with an octagon barrel- my grandpas gun. If you were successful hunting squirrels with a .22, odds are you're a better shot than you think ;)
 
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Okay. So it is a new rifle. Start from the very bottom and start load development all over. Don't resort back to some perceived load, you know nothing about this new rifle. Do the load work up properly.

If it still doesn't shoot well, its you. Plain and simple. Which fixing doesn't cost a thing other than practicing technique.
You'll figure it out. Leave the rifle alone at least for now. Tikka's tend to shoot well without modification and that has been confirmed in this thread.

Good luck,
Steve

Yup, I don't plan on modifying it one bit and I'm using a new powder, starting from ground up.
 
Okay didn't read this was a second rifle..

Do you have another rifle available that has a little less oomph that what you're shooting?

How's your shoulder pocket looking after a day of shooting?


I almost never shoot more than 20 rounds in a day and I've never had bruising and haven't had soreness from it since the first couple weeks I started shooting it. BUT, I do sometimes have a bad headache by the time I'm done. So, it does kick the crap out of me but it doesn't bother me at all and I'm pretty sure I don't have a BAD flinch, but I can't say I don't have one at all. Lots of times my first 5 shots are much better than the rest. On my last target with the staball powder, all of my 1st and 2nd shots for each load (with exception of the 60.5gr load) were pretty close together. My third shot for almost all of them was complete crap. I thought they were executed well, but I may have just flinched on them. On my 4th shot for all of them, I concentrated much harder to try to bring it back together. I should add that I weigh 150-155lbs.

I actually did just get a 7mm-08 for my wife and step kids. It's their first year as legal hunters!! My kids are really excited. One of them somehow went from not wanting to eat the fish we would catch and crying over any dead animal to wanting to make homemade rabbit skin hats and wanting to coyote hunt just for the fur. Anyway, it's a savage axis II in stainless. My wife and I broke it in together, using Hornady reduced recoil loads. Her last 3 shot group from that box of 20, without cleaning between, was about 0.75". Not bad for her first time. I reloaded those cases with speer 130gr spbt and h4895 at 35.2gr based off of a hodgdon reduced loads chart. My kids and wife primarily shot those last weekend and I shot just 2 shots. It was hard to tell how accurate that load was for the gun the way we were set up for shooting, but I'm pretty sure it's at least better than 1". I reloaded those cases again, with the same bullet but this time doing incremental loads. I'm going to have my wife shoot those this weekend and see how she does. I think she might be a better shot than I. So yes, I'll at some point very soon work on getting an accurate hunting load for that figured out and hopefully that will help me figure out how good/bad a shot I am! I'm also going to make up a couple of dummy loads for her to give me this weekend when we go to see if I'm flinching at all.
 
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I'd shoot that 7mm-08 and get it dialed in before the big bore!

I didn't buy my first 'big' game rifle until I was about 27. Prior to that I used what my dad had passed down- a Marlin .35 and Belgian Browning A5 12 ga. I moved to WV and started hunting with a friend and we had access to corn and soy fields. I was used to woods hunting- not fields. So went to a local sporting goods store that sold used rifles, and they had a 100yard underground range. Sparks Sporting goods in Martinsburg, WV. They had a custom Mauser .243 and they permitted you to shoot used guns but you pay for the rounds. I took that .243 and I mean it flat out shot. I grouped a dime first go around. And the rifle was inexpensive.

My buddy kept telling me I needed a .30-06 which is what he shot. He kept telling me the .243 was just too small, and I had my doubts too. So the only other rifle I could afford was a pump action .30-06. Didn't shoot nearly as well and frankly I sucked with it. Plus the fore end rattled in a tree stand and 180gr Core-Lokt's thumped my butt. Yeah I killed deer with it but I missed a lot at any distance.

About 5 years after that, my father in law sent me his rifle and shotgun- he hadn't shot them in over 25 years. The rifle was a Remington 722 in .257 Roberts. I loved shooting that rifle and I knocked the snail snot out of whitetail with that rifle! I could shoot it all day long and I had no problems up to my comfy range of about 300-350 yards.

I got rid of that shoulder bruising, clanky pump, lol.

Always regretted not getting that Mauser. But I passed that 722 down to my son, and now I have a 98 Mauser .257 Ackley built by Kevin Weaver. I... love...that..rifle.
 
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AND stop cleaning the dang things! LOL Cleaning can be more harm than good, especially if you aren't using a bore guide (which you should be) and coated rods. Even then, try shooting 100 rounds and see what it does.
 
Amen! I'm working up two R5's right now. I've got the .308 barrel broke in, it's shooting really close to where I want it, and I won't clean for 250+ shots or whenever it tells me it wants to be cleaned! Just clean the action and chamber area but leave the barrel alone.
 
AND stop cleaning the dang things! LOL Cleaning can be more harm than good, especially if you aren't using a bore guide (which you should be) and coated rods. Even then, try shooting 100 rounds and see what it does.
Amen! I'm working up two R5's right now. I've got the .308 barrel broke in, it's shooting really close to where I want it, and I won't clean for 250+ shots or whenever it tells me it wants to be cleaned! Just clean the action and chamber area but leave the barrel alone.

I have ready so many differing opinions on cleaning my head's nearly about to fall off from spinning! I do use a coated rod, which I wipe off every time I remove it from the barrel and I do have a possum hollow bore guide, which does a great job. I do understand damaging a bore can be pretty easy when cleaning improperly, but I don't know what harm it would do when only pushing a couple patches through with solvent (not reversing them) and then using a foam cleaner. With the safety of cleaning with that method, I worry more about corrosion in the barrel long term and developing an impossible to remove carbon ring in the throat. Even though it is stainless steel, having a mixture of all types of metals, minerals, residues, etc will eventually start to corrode and pit that steel. I know you're not pouring table salt into your barrel, but just leaving some table salt sitting in a stainless steel pan for awhile will cause it to rust.

I of course would rather not clean it. I'd save money on chemical and patches and time. And maybe it would shoot better! But that's such a hard one for me. Maybe I'll get there?!
 
Go to Krieger barrels or even Shilen like their FAQ http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10

Personally with a new barrel I follow the cleaning regimen clean after each shot for the 1st 5 shots, then clean every 5 rounds for the next 10 strings. I check for copper fouling after I've fired the first 10 rounds, and then check for copper again after the next 20. If it looks good after that- I shoot until it shows me signs it needs attention, or I put it away for storage.

I focus on keeping my action area clean and the outside of the gun is properly tended to.

In a humid environment like it was in WV- I cleaned and oiled my barrels more frequently due to conditions. But in Montana I just don't need to worry so much about it.

You will see a lot of opinions on the matter, and that's okay. Honestly I would never disagree on the subject. I tend to follow a regimen for break in and let the actual conditions of the barrel and the shot accuracy dictate what to do.
 
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