What do you use to level the reticle?

[Varmint Hunter]

Good points. Only a tall target test will show what worked and what didn't. Everything we are talking bout above simply gets us closer on a ttt, but that should be you baseline since you're actually getting result based information.

When doing the tall test target you must still hold the rifle consistently plumb by using some reference method. A reference point on the rifle would seem to make more sense than an adjustable bubble device on your scope tube.
Using the raceway as a reference is common but is it an accurate method? What about 3 lug rifles?
It seems to me that the only accurate method would be to perfectly plumb the centerline of the scope over the centerline of the bore. The double V tool for doing this makes sense but it appears to be a cheaply made device and, IME, contradicts what is plumb by using other accepted methods.

 

[KY_Windage]

When doing the tall test target you must still hold the rifle consistently plumb by using some reference method. A reference point on the rifle would seem to make more sense than an adjustable bubble device on your scope.

My home-made plumb-bob, hanging from a piece of 1x2 taped to the top of my target frame, works perfectly for that. I look through my scope and make sure my reticle is exactly parallel with the string. The only other critical alignment in the ttt is that your lower and upper POA's have to be aligned perfectly vertical. Well, darned if the plumb-bob doesn't work perfect for that, too.

Levels and gadgets are only going to get you close, but "close" is not nearly good enough for long range shooting. My eyeballed alignment of reticle and bore gets me close enough. Either way, I'm going to have to adjust by rotating my scope in its rings slightly anyway.

There is no other method than the ttt to make sure you have your scope aligned perfectly with your bore. So I go straight to it.

The only disadvantage to using my (free) plumb-bob is that I cannot use it on windy days. Not really a problem. I don't like trying to sight-in when the wind is moving me and my target frame around anyway.

 

[Barrelnut]

The double V tool for doing this makes sense but it appears to be a cheaply made device

It is pretty well made, has a precise bubble level and does a good job of placing the center line of the scopes objective over the center line of the scope. The tool has a slot that allows you to look through he scope and then align the reticle with a plum line while the tool is still on the rifle. After all of that, you still need to do a tall target test and make sure all is tracking correctly.

You really don't have to have to tool to accomplish all of this though. As KY_Windage pointed out, you can also eyeball from the back of the rifle make align the reticle over the barrel that way too.

 

[ntsqd]

ntsqd I am looking forward to seeing your system as it sounds like you have something interesting.
I'll be checking back to see it.
Old Rooster

I made one yesterday and in the process of squaring the vertical sides to the base I broke it. Need to come up with a better method of doing that. I have an idea for that, need to figure out how to lock the mill's spindle from rotating. That won't happen today (waiting for the grand-daughter to wake up to her first real Christmas right now), hopefully by the end of the week.

As to the question of are the bolt raceways a good place to start, is there ANY good place to start? I contend that with most everything about most actions being round that there is not. However, you have to pick some datum plane that is repeatable and the raceways in current action designs seem like the best option to me. With a three lug design the corners of two of the raceways can be used to define that datum. It may be a little awkward if the design is one down, two up. If the design is two down, one up then it wouldn't be much different, in practicality, than a two lug action.

I've long questioned the repeatability of those little levels. They're probably reasonably accurate given their design and price point, but I really question their consistency and my ability to read them consistently. These are NOT Starrett machine tool levels.

To me, the beauty of the tool that I'm making is that it does not care how level the rifle is. It eliminates one whole measurement's set of errors and lack of repeatability. Since it references the reticle directly it also eliminates any error in the scope body to reticle alignment.
It is not, and I would never contend that it is a replacement for the tall target test. I do think that it will reduce the number of times that the TTT needs to be shot. And if LR isn't the goal for the rifle being scoped then this tool has proven itself to be all that was needed.
It is all too easy to post absolutes when the world has many shades of gray.

 

[338 dude]

what a great tool. very similiar to the sphur tool. i have come across turrets that are lower than the flat bottom of the scope and then it doesn't work as well sadly

I used to use the wheeler level but now it seems I use the same tool as you just a different brand works very well

 

[Hawkeye Pierce]

I got the defensive edge levels

How do you like those? I've been looking at them.

 

[sturner]

I used them one time worked good better than the two little ones I was using

 

[Hawkeye Pierce]

I used them one time worked good better than the two little ones I was using

Good to know, thanks.

 

[RiverSink]

A dark room with a plumb bob hung on the wall and a flashlight shining through the scope is the best tools I've ever used.

 

[mjkten]

I usually mount the scope with a level on the top turret and one on the action rails. Then I take a tall target to the range and hang a plumb bob with a bright colored string next to it to check. Shoot the adjustment range of your scope up and down the target to check tracking, with an eye to click value and staying on the line. Lots of more experienced shooters here than me, with excellent ideas. Not quite so important for horizontal crosshair to be level as vertical to be straight I think. They should correspond though, but we check because we understand things aren't always as they should be.

 

[Plowboy85]

A dark room with a plumb bob hung on the wall and a flashlight shining through the scope is the best tools I've ever used.

I keep seeing this method in the thread, until recently never heard of it. Really like the idea and will be giving it a try.

 

[stljc2]

2 Bubble glasses from line levels. I removed them from cheap plastic line (construction) levels I bought. I set one in the groove of the picatinny rail to level the weapon and one on top of the elevation adjustment knob of the scope. Cheap and easy.

 

[sturner]

I keep seeing this method in the thread, until recently never heard of it. Really like the idea and will be giving it a try.

I've never done it either
Can somebody explain how please

 

[brguide]

I first level scope with action during install and get my level for scope close. Then I take it out to range and hang up plumb bob at 100 yards and fine tune level.
Then I grab a b2b Target and measure exact distance with long tape measure 100 yards/300 feet exact. Make sure gun and target are on same plane leveled. Then shoot 3 at Target and adjust max elevation and fire 3 more. See if tracking is on as well as see how level scope is. Any corrections I make then re shoot.