What do you use to level the reticle?

[ntsqd]

What I don't see is how the plumb-bob/corner of the neighbor's house/etc. is going to align the barreled action under the scope. All that I can see it doing is making sure that the reticle is straight up and down relative to the reference line when the rifle is held in that particular orientation, but the rifle under it could easily be off of plumb by a little to a lot. I'm clearly missing a step in the sequence.

As to the feller insisting on the scope be true to the barrel I see where he's going with that, but the action is what the scope is normally attached to, and so is the barrel. If the barrel is so far off that plumbing to the action results in errors you're lost before you started and it's time to revisit the barrel to action marriage.

 

[KY_Windage]

What I don't see is how the plumb-bob/corner of the neighbor's house/etc. is going to align the barreled action under the scope. All that I can see it doing is making sure that the reticle is straight up and down relative to the reference line when the rifle is held in that particular orientation, but the rifle under it could easily be off of plumb by a little to a lot. I'm clearly missing a step in the sequence.

As to the feller insisting on the scope be true to the barrel I see where he's going with that, but the action is what the scope is normally attached to, and so is the barrel. If the barrel is so far off that plumbing to the action results in errors you're lost before you started and it's time to revisit the barrel to action marriage.

As I said, I use my eye to align the reticle to the bore, but I expect the upper group to be off slightly, just as I expect it to be off with one of the gadgets. It the tall target test that gets it perfect. If my upper group is off to the left, I know my scope is rotated slightly to the right, and I adjust. It is trial and error, but with practice you get pretty good at it. And it does not take long to loosen the ring-to-scope screws and rotate the tube a bit, then re-tighten. With a known-to-be accurate rifle and load, I will shoot only a 1-shot "group" on the bottom and and 1-shot "group" on the top. Only after I think I have it perfect do I shoot 3- or 5- shot groups to verify. Shooting only two shots, one low and then one high, it does not take long to find the spot.

All the plumb-bob does is (a) make sure my POA's (targets) are dead vertical, (b) make sure my reticle is dead vertical while shooting the test groups and (c) enable me to install my scope level perfect when I am done.

For (c) the scope has already been fastened down tight and stays that way. I rotate the entire rifle until the reticle lines up perfectly with the plumb-bob and hold it there while I adjust my level until the bubble is centered. Done and good for a thousand yards, or whatever.

 

[ajkellerusmc]

I drive a 1x2 stake into the ground, paint it white and set it perfectly vertical using a good 4 ft contractors level stay away from the lowes or home depot cheapo levels.

Now back up to 100 yds and put the rifle in a rifle vise. next place a steel straight 1/4" thick bar about 6" long across the flat part of the receiver or the rail using some rubber bands around the bottom of the stock to clamp the bar in place on the rail. now add a machinist level (again not a cheapo string level you get from lowes) onto the bar so you can level the action/rifle using the machinist level.

Keeping the rifle action level, set the scope on a high magnafication setting and turn the scope in the rings to set the vertical crosshair on the 100yd vertical stake by looking through the scope, keep in mind paralax can foul you up if you do not look through the scope properly or do not adjust your scopes paralax setting. Once you get the vertical crosshair set vertical to the stake while keeping the action level tighten the scope rings evenly so as not to put a twist on the scope and mess up the vertical you have set. Recheck everything after you are snugged down.

once you are tightened down you can add a scope level to the scope using the machinist level as a guide to get it set up and then head to the range.

I have done this with all my rifles with good results.

 

[KY_Windage]

And I should add, whatever your method, if you aren't doing the tall target test when you are done you have no clue whether you got it right or not.

 

[Stgraves260]

What I don't see is how the plumb-bob/corner of the neighbor's house/etc. is going to align the barreled action under the scope. All that I can see it doing is making sure that the reticle is straight up and down relative to the reference line when the rifle is held in that particular orientation, but the rifle under it could easily be off of plumb by a little to a lot. I'm clearly missing a step in the sequence.

As to the feller insisting on the scope be true to the barrel I see where he's going with that, but the action is what the scope is normally attached to, and so is the barrel. If the barrel is so far off that plumbing to the action results in errors you're lost before you started and it's time to revisit the barrel to action marriage.

I never understood the plumb bob thing either. All the plumb bob does is level the scope to the string and not level the scope to the action. I guess that's why when I go to the rifle range I usually see all these people with 2" and 3" groups and they are happy with it. I guess I'm missing something too.

 

[Stgraves260]

What I don't see is how the plumb-bob/corner of the neighbor's house/etc. is going to align the barreled action under the scope. All that I can see it doing is making sure that the reticle is straight up and down relative to the reference line when the rifle is held in that particular orientation, but the rifle under it could easily be off of plumb by a little to a lot. I'm clearly missing a step in the sequence.

As to the feller insisting on the scope be true to the barrel I see where he's going with that, but the action is what the scope is normally attached to, and so is the barrel. If the barrel is so far off that plumbing to the action results in errors you're lost before you started and it's time to revisit the barrel to action marriage.

I never understood the plumb bob thing either. All the plumb bob does is level the scope to the string and not level the scope to the action. I guess that's why when I go to the rifle range I usually see all these people with 2" and 3" groups and they are happy with it. I guess I'm missing something too.

 

[Stgraves260]

WoW!!!!! I am laughing so hard right now I can't even breath. I truly hope these people are joking on the way they level their scopes.

 

[Stgraves260]

I have a scope level and a cosine indicator on my long range rifles. All my rifles are sighted in at 100 yards also. And I mean perfect zero. 5 shots same hole dead center. A true 100 yards with the same rangefinder I hunt with. This is important cause not all rangefinders will range distance the same.

 

[ntsqd]

I keep coming back to that tool that I used to have & will have make a copy of. It would allow the installer to optically square the reticle perpendicular to the bolt raceways. In those days "Long Range" in a hunting context was almost always sub 500 yards and most local kills were well under 300 yards so that was often good enough.

These days it would still be a simple, easy to use, not likely to incite a visit from the local authorities good starting point. I'll see if I can make one and post a pic of it in the next day or two.

 

[Stgraves260]

That would be cool t

I keep coming back to that tool that I used to have & will have make a copy of. It would allow the installer to optically square the reticle perpendicular to the bolt raceways. In those days "Long Range" in a hunting context was almost always sub 500 yards and most local kills were well under 300 yards so that was often good enough.

These days it would still be a simple, easy to use, not likely to incite a visit from the local authorities good starting point. I'll see if I can make one and post a pic of it in the next day or two.

to see.

 

[Stgraves260]

If I remember right these are 100,200, and 500 yards shots. I just check my elevation turret now and then to make sure they still match my dope and rangefinder.

 

[KY_Windage]

If I remember right these are 100,200, and 500 yards shots. I just check my elevation turret now and then to make sure they still match my dope and rangefinder.

Sure, I mean, who here doesn't shoot sub-3/4" groups at 500 yards.

 

[KY_Windage]

A true 100 yards with the same rangefinder I hunt with. This is important cause not all rangefinders will range distance the same.

I always laugh when I see someone at the range shooting CF and setting their 100-yd target with a RF. Seriously? You think your POI at 98 yds is going to be discernibly different than at 102 yds? With a lobbed bullet like a .22, sure, but with a hunting CF? Please!

 

[Old Rooster]

KY_Windage wrote an important post where he mentioned the Tall Target Test.
I have used this before and how I knew I had a slight cant at 300 yards on 1 scope and it took 400 yards for another rifle to show a less cant but cant none the less.
Here is a great explanation of that Tall Target Test:https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...1A9D77A397972E28FAC61A9D77A397972E2&FORM=VIRE
That little 19.95 Amazon tool corrected this in a few seconds.
It took longer to go over the torque sequence than correct those 2 scopes.