What did I do wrong? This sucks!!!

[retiredcpo]

I would try unscrewing the de capper and maybee tapping with a small punch to get things out of the primer pocket then use a rcbs stuck case puller to pull it.
I know if it was me I would be fighting it and as the fight went on the hammer would get bigger and bigger
If you notice yourself getting to that point walk away and take a few.
good luck
let us know how you get it out
i wonder if exsessive amounts of lube could have bound things up
retiredcpo

 

[CRNA]

I would try unscrewing the de capper and maybee tapping with a small punch to get things out of the primer pocket then use a rcbs stuck case puller to pull it.
I know if it was me I would be fighting it and as the fight went on the hammer would get bigger and bigger
If you notice yourself getting to that point walk away and take a few.
good luck
let us know how you get it out
i wonder if exsessive amounts of lube could have bound things up
retiredcpo

Haha! You and I think a lot alike. Once it got stuck I just stopped everything. As Dirty Harry once said, "a man's got to know his limitations". I know mine, and I knew it was time to come inside and have a "cooling off" period before trying to figure out how to do it. I wonder if spraying it with some WD-40 or some PB Blaster and letting it soak for a while would help it out? Oh, and by the way, I can't unscrew the spindle at the top. Not sure if I mentioned that earlier. It will unscrew about a turn and a half or so and then stops. It is still threaded into the die, so not sure how to go about it. I'm going to sleep on this one and tackle it in the morning.

 

[HARPERC]

A man knowing his limitations was the humble perspective I had when asking about correct use. I'm well known as a menace with tools and tasks by family and friends. Sincerely wanted to hear from someone that was getting it right. Thanks

 

[SBruce]

Might try calling the die maker Forster and get their suggestions before getting a sledge and pipe wrench with cheater. I don't know why the decap stem is not unscrewing, but they might. I don't know that I would've been able to "take a break" and probably would've found "the bigger hammer". LoL

FWIW, I too have used nothing but Hornady One Shot for about 15 years and probably close to 15000 rounds of handloads since I started using it (only maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of those involved lube and FL sizeing though). I've never had a stuck case.? Don't even know how to use a stuck case remover. I like the One Shot better than the old RCBS lube pad I was using prior.

FWIW, my lube process is to spray down into the necks and onto the shoulder from all 4 sides of the loading block. Let dry and flip them upside down in the loading block. Spray the base/sides of the cases from all 4 sides and let dry. The One Shot seems to need to be dry to be fully effective.

I then resize them and tumble or wipe with cloth to remove lube. I've used Unique and Imperial sizing wax too, but it seems to take more time and effort to remove.

 

[BillR]

You need to look for the thread I made on resizing .308 machine gun brass. I stuck about every third one till I found a lube that would work. Used a mix of mink oil and bee's wax that I had made up for patch lube for my Muzzle loader. I normally used One Shot and still do but not on brass fired through a machine gun. The cases swell too much due the over sized chamber. you might want to check into that on your gun if it is swelling the cases that much. With a rimed case I doubt your using a small base die so it should not be sizing it down that much.
Also most likely you have bent the stem or decaping pin and thus the reason it will not unscrew as its binding. Might have to get a bit tough with it. Shouldn't hurt the die body as the case that is stuck in it should protect the die body but the stem might be hosed.
I used a 1/4X28 tap and after drilling out the primer pocket taped it and then used a 1/2" socket with a washer over it would take a 1/4X28 bolt and screw it down and tighten it up until the case poped out. The 1/2" socket would push against the bottom of the die and let the case come up inside of it but you might need to go a size bigger if its needed as I was doing .308 Win brass. All is not lost though but might cost you a new stem and decaping pin. Been there done that got the t-shirt. Thats why I can laugh about it now.

 

[BigSkyGP]

Yep, don't get impatient with the one shot drying. Wet one shot sticks as bad as a dry case.

I switched to RCBS spray for the 223, and seems to be working pretty well. As far as I can tell seems to be a spray form of the RCBS grease. I like the way the spray gets to the mouth, neck, and shoulder.

RCBS dies, you have to wedge the expander in the case mouth, and unscrew the decapping/expander stem from the pin holder/expander. Then you have just enough room to drill/tap/screw out the case. Try to miss the pin, and expander that's still in there.

Everything else gets the Lee sizing lube, the white stuff, never stuck a case, from 223-300wm.

clean dies with rubbing alcohol 90% every hundred or so rounds, with Q-tip.

 

[cowboy]

If I was you I would take the die with stuck brass to a gunsmith. Most gunsmiths have had dozens come in and he more than likely will have a puller. In my opinion the 10 bucks or so spent will be worth the frustration and if your smith is any kind of guy he will walk you through the do's and don't's. Being in the frustrated mode makes it difficult to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

As far as using spray lube - I too have used it for 15 or so years with no problems.

I roll out enough paper towel on floor or cookie sheet, stand brass upright, spray all four sides at a 45 degree downward angle and then go over the top to spray down into the necks. I let lube dry on brass for 10-15 min before I touch brass. With that said I have a can of imperial die wax and as I am resizing, if one seems to have a little resistance - and it is always on the upstroke - I will take the next piece of brass and put just a small amount of Imperial on the inside of the neck and things seems to have no more resistance for quite a while. If I get to the point where it seems it needs it again I repeat appl. with Imperial. So I guess I use both spray and Imperial but I will say I haven't used enough Imperial out of one little tin in 15 years that you'd even notice it.

I tumble my brass before resizing, wipe off as much lube with paper towels after resizing, then I will re-tumble again for a short time to remove any wax that I missed.

As far as cleaning your die. After EVERY reloading session I take my die apart, spray inside and all parts with "Mercury" cleaner and let them set on a paper towel on my reloading bench until I return - may be as long as a couple days sometimes. The mercury cleaner I use I got from a boat mechanic and I believe it is called "mercury power tune engine cleaner". *( Best dang cleaner for pistol I have ever tried and it flat gets the powder residue etc.). Wipe your die down/out with cleaning patches and put away until the next time. Do you need to clean a die every time - No probably not - but my memory is as long as some other parts I own and I found if I do it every time I know it's clean when I go to use it again. I have some dies I may use only once every 2 years. This works for me - if I stay with what I know works I seem to have better luck.

I am not familiar with Forrester dies but there should be a vent hole and that can not have any restriction from old lube etc. or are going to continue to have problems.

Went through the same same frustration you are going through some 40 years ago but if you clean your dies - use adequate lube - things will go well.

Oh yea - about the time you figure you know everything in this game - Murphy shows up every once in awhile. Great hobby isn't it.

Good luck - sorry to be so long winded.

 

[boomtube]

Stuck cases are part of the learning curve, that's why we all need a stuck case remover. Cases get stuck for one reason only, lube; either a poor lube or it's poorly applied, expecially by not getting enough lube down near the case head because that's where they get stuck.

The normal learning process is 1) use too much lube and get (harmless) dents in the shoulder, 2) reduce the lube and everything works well, 3) reduce the lube too much, it gets stuck and the rim is pulled off so we reach for the stuck case remover.


Efforts to "neck size" with a FL die is commonly a loser, that's why the makers produce neck dies to do it right.

 

[CogburnR]

One trick is to file off the rim that ripped a bit and run the die back into the press. Then turn the remaining good part of the rim into the shell holder and very gently try to work the case out. If you melted a bit of sizing wax down the die around the case that would help.


If you can get the de-capping stem loose you can drill out the primer pocked and tap 1/4" threads into it. Use a piece of threaded rod screwed into the case and a spacer tube(like the socket mentioned previously) and a washer and nut to pull the case out. Don't use a bolt or turn the threaded rod in the case under pressure. I use the same method to pull stuck cases out of chambers.

It is fairly easy to screw up a de-capping stem trying to remove a stuck case.

I used one shot for a long time and if I got a case that was sprayed a little light or wasn't quite dry I might get a stuck case or bent rim. I went to sizing wax and the effort to re-size cases went down alot. Once you run a couple cases in a die with siznig wax you can run a couple through with no lube and not stick a case. With one-shot you would not be able to do that.

 

[CRNA]

If I was you I would take the die with stuck brass to a gunsmith. Most gunsmiths have had dozens come in and he more than likely will have a puller. In my opinion the 10 bucks or so spent will be worth the frustration and if your smith is any kind of guy he will walk you through the do's and don't's. Being in the frustrated mode makes it difficult to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

As far as using spray lube - I too have used it for 15 or so years with no problems.

I roll out enough paper towel on floor or cookie sheet, stand brass upright, spray all four sides at a 45 degree downward angle and then go over the top to spray down into the necks. I let lube dry on brass for 10-15 min before I touch brass. With that said I have a can of imperial die wax and as I am resizing, if one seems to have a little resistance - and it is always on the upstroke - I will take the next piece of brass and put just a small amount of Imperial on the inside of the neck and things seems to have no more resistance for quite a while. If I get to the point where it seems it needs it again I repeat appl. with Imperial. So I guess I use both spray and Imperial but I will say I haven't used enough Imperial out of one little tin in 15 years that you'd even notice it.

I tumble my brass before resizing, wipe off as much lube with paper towels after resizing, then I will re-tumble again for a short time to remove any wax that I missed.

As far as cleaning your die. After EVERY reloading session I take my die apart, spray inside and all parts with "Mercury" cleaner and let them set on a paper towel on my reloading bench until I return - may be as long as a couple days sometimes. The mercury cleaner I use I got from a boat mechanic and I believe it is called "mercury power tune engine cleaner". *( Best dang cleaner for pistol I have ever tried and it flat gets the powder residue etc.). Wipe your die down/out with cleaning patches and put away until the next time. Do you need to clean a die every time - No probably not - but my memory is as long as some other parts I own and I found if I do it every time I know it's clean when I go to use it again. I have some dies I may use only once every 2 years. This works for me - if I stay with what I know works I seem to have better luck.

I am not familiar with Forrester dies but there should be a vent hole and that can not have any restriction from old lube etc. or are going to continue to have problems.

Went through the same same frustration you are going through some 40 years ago but if you clean your dies - use adequate lube - things will go well.

Oh yea - about the time you figure you know everything in this game - Murphy shows up every once in awhile. Great hobby isn't it.

Good luck - sorry to be so long winded.

HaHa. Murphy never seems to be on my side either. I do know a gunsmith that may be able to do this pretty painlessly. I would gladly pay and see it done and then I would know how to do it next time. I will definitely have to get some spray lube. Seems to be the ticket.

 

[boomtube]

I would suggest you contact Forster about the finish inside your sizer, it was reamed with a slightly dull reamer. That's what has made the circular 'scuffs' on your cases. They don't look bad enough to have caused a stuck case tho, that was more likely due to insufficent case lube down near the head, that's where they get stuck.

Flood water is going down on the range, think I'm going shootin' tomorrow.

 

[sambo3006]

Your chamber might be on the bigger end of the tolerance range and your die might be on the smaller end of the tolerance range. And you might not have had sufficient lube. Add those all together and you get stuck cases. The problem is usually solved by using a good lube like Imperial Sizing Wax. If you encounter more than usual resistance when resizing, stop and withdraw the case from the die without shoving it in any further. Try adding a little more lube and run it in again. Remember, it is easy to apply a lot of force running the case into the die but brass is fairly maleable so the case rim is the weak link when trying to pull a case out of the die.

Don't ask me how I learned any of this stuff.

 

[tomt]

Had this happen on Federal .308 Winchester brass. The RCBS Stuck Case Remover worked well. The Imperial Wax is good stuff, I put a dab on my index finger, smooth it out with my thumb, and put a very lite coating on the case starting below the shoulder. I also use a Q-tip to do inside the neck. If you feel excessive pressure on the ram bring it back up to the point of the expander going through the neck. Now go down again and repeat until you can make one pass. The Imperial wax will need wiping out of the neck and off the case. I do extensive case prep so I just rinse mine in hot water and blow them out with compressed air.

Good luck in your fix, Tom

 

[Jim Oliver]

Forester BR dies------BR=bench rest??