Weatherby shoulder setback help

jbs2014

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For all of you that reload Weatherbies, how much do you setback the shoulder/radius? And what tool do you use to measure it? I have bump gauges for my Cheytac and other cartridges, but how does one measure it on the Weatherby? I have the Hornady E420 on my caliper for the 338-378 but I am not sure it this is even the correct way to do this. As far as I can tell, when I full length re size with the RCBS sizing die I am pushing the "shoulder/radius" back .020 (which makes it about the same as a brand new case). Is that normal for a sizing die to do? My Cheytac Dies, when set to cam over on the press only set the shoulder back about .005 or so.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thank you
 
For all of you that reload Weatherbies, how much do you setback the shoulder/radius? And what tool do you use to measure it? I have bump gauges for my Cheytac and other cartridges, but how does one measure it on the Weatherby? I have the Hornady E420 on my caliper for the 338-378 but I am not sure it this is even the correct way to do this. As far as I can tell, when I full length re size with the RCBS sizing die I am pushing the "shoulder/radius" back .020 (which makes it about the same as a brand new case). Is that normal for a sizing die to do? My Cheytac Dies, when set to cam over on the press only set the shoulder back about .005 or so.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thank you
Only size the brass enough to bump the shoulder .002"-.003". Brass will be more accurate, last much longer and trimmed less often. Setting it back .020" you will eventually end up with case head separation and having to replace VERY expensive brass. The Hornady E420 should work, I would try to find something closer to 460 size to measure on the shoulder(perhaps a .45 cal bullet comparator?) You need to measure a couple fireformed cases from your rifle (with no primer, spent primers tend to protudes slightly and will give you an incorrect reading on caliper) to find your chamber size(write it down) then size the brass untill it measures .002"-003" smaller than fireformed measurement. Weatherby brass is too expensive to ruin, get it correct from the start and it will last many firings. Keep good notes on your measurements
 
Ok I will try that. Thank you. Is it normal for a die to push it back that far? From what I measured with the E420 it sets it back about .004 over the shoulder of a brand new case.

So I have been getting 3056fps with a 275 grain RMB bullet with new brass. If I only size .002-.003 will it alter my velocity very much? Increase or decrease?
 
Name of the game is to size it as close to your rifles chamber size as possible.... I have a set of RCBS dies for my .270 Weatherby and it will set the shoulder back almost .020" if I cam it over. Run your die down untill it touches the shell holder, back it off a 1/4 or little more. Size a case and measure to see if shoulder moved any. If not, screw in slightly and try again and repeat until shoulder moves back 2 or 3 thousandths. A brand new case is usually WAY under what your chamber actually measures. Base your measurements off of your fireformed cases and not new brass. Velocity shouldn't be affected enough to worry about...
 
Ok I will give that a go tomorrow and test on the weekend. Thanks for the info.

Just curious how many loadings does one get from sizing .020?

Have you ever noticed that 338-378 cases have a white line near the belt that looks like the start of case head separation? Even new.
 
jbs, a Redding body die will bump the shoulder and not touch the neck. Unfortunately Redding doesn't make the body die for all Wby calibers. You'd need to check if they're available. I use it on 30-378 Wby about every 3-4 firings.
 
jbs, a Redding body die will bump the shoulder and not touch the neck. Unfortunately Redding doesn't make the body die for all Wby calibers. You'd need to check if they're available. I use it on 30-378 Wby about every 3-4 firings.
I use a body die on virtually all of my Weatherby reloads. If Redding doesn't already make one, you can have one custom made, but it's not inexpensive.

After that I neck size, and I'm good to go.
 
I use Hornady custom grade dies with my Weatherby (full length). There are better options out there but these dies have worked well for me so far and it's "only" a hunting rifle after all...
As others have mentioned, use the Hornady E420 and bump the shoulder .03"; at least that's what I've been going with to give some wiggle room so I don't run into issues in the field getting too tight on tolerances.
I anneal the brass after every firing to get as much potential life out of it as possible, only trim when the brass is at max and needs it and would be disappointed if I didn't get at least 7 reloads ea. after pampering this brass.
 
I load the 338-378. I use a Larry Willis tool to check shoulder set back. I use 2-3 thousandths, that's .002-.003 not hundredths .02-.03. You will get a touch of spring back .001-.002 over time. Have had no issues chambering and have shot brass up to 8 times trimming 2 or 3 times only. I am at close to most books published max with 300 grain pills. No anealing although I am sure that helps. I want the case spacing on the head if possible.
 
Some good info here...will pass the link for this page on to my son. He is having some issues with is .338-.378 Wby Mag cases splitting above the belt and I believe that is due to the case stretching due to too much headspace...I think some of the above suggestions should get him to where he needs to be when starting out with the new brass.
 
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