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Trouble getting consistent shoulder setback.

I ran into this when I started using a giraud trimmer and noticed the variation when measuring trim lengths. I ended up finding that I didn't lube the inside of the neck enough.
 
This problem is exacerbated by tough brass like LC and lapua. Use imperial sizing wax when sizing - everything else is junk. I've had sizing issues with every Redding die I've ever used. The die doesn't allow the case to be sized enough so you end up sizing multiple times or overcamming the press, resulting in inconsistent sizing. The competition shell holders don't help this issue, they make it worse. The only solution is to grind the top of your shell holder down so the case can go farther into the die (I do this by hand 120grit sand paper places on a flat surface).

After you fix your shell holder and apply the correct amount of lube, inside the case neck and outside the case, use consistent smooth pressure on the press handle and hold at the btm of the press stroke for 2-3sec.
 
I personally never had consistent results with a salt bath annealing system. Once I switched to a heat sourced annealer my consistency came in.

Lube is a factor, I do mine differently. I buy the big cans of Imperial Lube, then put an amount in between my hands and rub my hands together until I get an even disbursement, then will grab four or five cases at a time and lube them all at once. Making sure I get a light, even amount around the necks, shoulders and the bodies.
When you're resizing 100 - 500 cases at a time you have to save time where you can.
 
body die , bottomed out on redding competition shell holders , with press cam over

you can put feeler gauges between the shell holder and dies to accomplish the same thing , as long as you can bottom it out and not over size

comp shell holders#6 https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012456684

ya they are 50 bucks but the#6 can be used for your 300 win & all of the following

  • 223 WSSM
  • 6mm-300 WSM
  • 25-300 WSM
  • 25-300 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 257 Weatherby Magnum
  • 257 STW
  • 264 Winchester Magnum
  • 6.5mm Remington Magnum
  • 6.5mm STW
  • 6.5mm-300 WSM
  • 6.5mm-300 Weatherby Magnum
  • 6.5mm-300 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 270 Weatherby Magnum
  • 270 WSM
  • 270-300 Winchester Magnum
  • 270-300 Weatherby
  • 270-300 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 284 Baer
  • 7mm Remington Magnum
  • 7mm Remington SAUM
  • 7mm WSM
  • 7mm Weatherby Magnum
  • 7mm Hart Magnum
  • 7mm Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 7mm STW
  • 7x61mm Sharpe & Hart
  • 7x66mm Vom Hofe S.E.
  • 7mm- 300 Weatherby Magnum
  • 7mm-300 Winchester Magnum
  • 7mm-300 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 7mm-350 Remington Magnum
  • 30 Hart Magnum
  • 30-338 Winchester Magnum
  • 30-8mm Remington Magnum
  • 30-350 Remington Magnum
  • 300 H&H Magnum
  • 300 Winchester Magnum
  • 300 Weatherby Magnum
  • 300 Mashburn Magnum
  • 300 Jarrett
  • 300 Remington SAUM
  • 300 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 300 WSM
  • 308 Baer
  • 308 Norma Magnum
  • 8mm Remington Magnum
  • 8mm-338 Winchester Magnum
  • 8mm-300 Winchester Magnum
  • 8mm-300 WSM
  • 8x56mm Mannlicher
  • 338 Winchester Magnum
  • 338 Baer
  • 338 Jarrett
  • 338-308 Norma Magnum
  • 338-300 WSM
  • 338-8mm Remington Magnum
  • 338-300 Winchester Magnum
  • 338-350 Remington Magnum
  • 340 Weatherby Magnum
  • 338 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 35-8mm Remington Magnum
  • 35-338 Winchester Magnum
  • 35-300 Weatherby Magnum
  • 35-300 WSM
  • 350 Remington Magnum
  • 358 Norma Magnum
  • 358 STA
  • 9.3x74mm R
  • 9.3mm Wilson
  • 375 H&H Magnum
  • 375 Mashburn Magnum
  • 375 Weatherby Magnum
  • 375-300 Winchester Magnum
  • 375-300 WSM
  • 375 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 375-8mm Remington Magnum
  • 375-338 Winchester Magnum
  • 375-350 Remington Magnum
  • 416 Remington Magnum
  • 416-300 Remington Ultra Magnum
  • 416-300 WSM
  • 416 Hoffman
  • 416 Taylor
  • 416 Express
  • 425 Express
  • 450 Ackley Magnum
  • 450 Marlin
  • 455 Webley
  • 458x2" American
  • 458 Winchester Magnum
  • 470 Capstick
I had the same issue and called Redding they are great. Tell them your issue and they will resolve it.
 
When setting up a die you don't want to btm out on your shell holder before the press stroke is complete. This will overstress your press and break things. You shouldn't have to overcam to size correctly.
 
I had the same issues with my Dillon 650. Same with seating depth. Once I went amp annealing there is still some difference but not much.
 
Having a heck of a time getting consistent shoulder setback on my 300WM brass.

Using Redding Type S FL
Dillon 550B and Lyman Orange Crusher single stage (tried both presses and get same problems)
MAI Brass (Norma), salt bath annealed, several firings in my rifle.
Hornady comparator set, using 0.400 bushing to measure shoulder datum.

The brass come out of the rifle at ± 0.0005, so I don't think it's my measuring skills/setup.

Want to set them back 0.002, and I get variation from no setback, to as much as 0.004". Trying to get my die set is like playing whack-a-mole. Think I have it, then run a few and now I find they're too short, adjust the die, run a couple more, then I realize they're now coming out too long! Rinse and repeat. I'm even indexing the die/nut, and noticing different set back at the same locations.

Never tried to pay this much attention to shoulder setback, and loads were fine, but I'm being meticulous this time around just to see if I notice anything better/worse.

Any ideas or tips on setting up the die?

I use the same dies and reload 338 LM, 300 RUM and 270 WSM. I use the Reading bushings but do not use expander button. I find that my should length can vary when I use a button.

I had similar problems and had the same "whack a mole" experience. Frustrating.

My problems disappeared when I started annealing with an annealer from Annealing Made Perfect.

https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/74277

Expensive but I anneal just prior to sizing. I deprime and clean (I use a wet tumbler) then anneal. After annealing I resize with the Type S die.
 
I don't have a gap. The die hits the base plate (Dillon) and/or shell holder (Lyman) in order to get the bump I need.

I suppose this could be the fundamental issue. The bump is being controlled by the amount compression of the holder/plate/die/press.


All cases have a slight spring back difference and it is next to impossible to get them the exact same every time. If you are bottoming out in the press that Is a good sign of spring back differences. .001 to .002 is not enough to cause any difference in the accuracy unless you just set back as a general rule. I recommend only setting back just enough to chamber the round and only then.

Actually I like a little compression feel when closing the bolt. (Not enough to make it difficult, just where there is no slack).

J E CUSTOM
 
I was just wondering, do you have a friend who has a single-stage press you can put your die and shell holder in, say like an RCBS Rockchucker? I know you said you ave a Lyman Orange Crusher... sometimes it's just Occam's razor. Cheers
 
Having a heck of a time getting consistent shoulder setback on my 300WM brass.

Using Redding Type S FL
Dillon 550B and Lyman Orange Crusher single stage (tried both presses and get same problems)
MAI Brass (Norma), salt bath annealed, several firings in my rifle.
Hornady comparator set, using 0.400 bushing to measure shoulder datum.

The brass come out of the rifle at ± 0.0005, so I don't think it's my measuring skills/setup.

Want to set them back 0.002, and I get variation from no setback, to as much as 0.004". Trying to get my die set is like playing whack-a-mole. Think I have it, then run a few and now I find they're too short, adjust the die, run a couple more, then I realize they're now coming out too long! Rinse and repeat. I'm even indexing the die/nut, and noticing different set back at the same locations.

Never tried to pay this much attention to shoulder setback, and loads were fine, but I'm being meticulous this time around just to see if I notice anything better/worse.

Any ideas or tips on setting up the die?
Having struggled with your problem as we all have, the most important step I have found is to use a different piece of fired brass for each adjustment.
In the past I have found the second & third adjustment have little or no effect on bump. Then when it finally gets there the next piece has gone too far.
I believe this is because the "springback" changes once the shoulder is moved.
Using a different piece for each adjustment seems to get me closer.
Like others said, uniform lube & state of anneal all play into uniform "bumps".
I measure every piece and allow .0005 tolerance. Another "trick" for consistency is to leave the press in cam-over for a few seconds (5-10?), thought is time overcomes "springback memory" if there is such a thing.
My .02
Randy
 
I never want my press to cam over. I even turn my does down to get them short enough to bump my shoulders. If you make zero headspace chambers 50% of dies won't bump the shoulder at all. Here is my way. Use imperial wax. I lube one case and put it in press. I let it sit there till I have the next piece lubes. Then I take the brass out of press and put next one in. This lets your brass sit under compression for 5 to 10 seconds. If you are measuring every one and find a short one just put it back in press for another 10 seconds and remeasure. Proper annealing will give you closer results. I never put lube on my shoulders. Just the body. I do lube 243 necks when forming 6slr brass. If you can feel your brass as you close your bolt they are still to long. If you take the firing pin out of your bolt and close it on a brass the handle should close under its own weight. Too tight brass will give you all kinds of vertical. I normally set my brass back .004 this gives room in case one only bumps .003 it still fits loose. I know guys at Williamsport 1000 yard range that bump .008 and he's the world record holder.
Shep
 
The 550 will flex for certain with big cases. A custom ammo maker i know wont use Dillons with the interchangeable heads, he buys every 450 he can find though.
 
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