Want to get into reloading!

[Susquatch]

. ..... I Purchased the 10th edition of Hornady and started writing down certain pieces of equipment that I think I would like , The one thing I noticed that somebody had that I think I would like is the electric brass preperation tool, Lyman Case Prep Xpress, anyone have any time on one of these?

Good start with the Hornady manual. After you finish reading it, get another one - Berger/Nosler/Sierra and read it too. Never hurts to have more than one manual since the reloading charts are generated with different rifles, brass, and primer and therefore they ARE NOT THE SAME.

Things like the Lyman Case Prep Center, Automatic Powder Dispensers, bulk brass cleaners etc are all very nice to have but unnecessary and expensive. Spend your first money on a really nice press, premium dies, a good powder scale, and the needed small tools (case length gauge, primer pocket cleaner, powder funnel, case block, etc) or buy the press in a complete kit with all the required small tools included - usually some good deals to be had when buying a complete kit. It is actually a good idea to do things manually/individually till you have a few years of reloading under your belt. It builds understanding and good safe habits. Faster is not a good thing because it leads to mistakes - especially double loads, part loads, and no loads - all three are very dangerous. Inspect each brass before you drop your powder to make sure the case is empty and in good shape, and then again afterward dropping your powder and look for a consistent level of powder in the case. Take your time and enjoy it. My advice is to not worry about stuff like prep centers yet. Maybe put one on your Christmas list for the year after next.

 

[jasonco]

For starters, pick one or two reloading manuals and read them, to understand the basics of what your wanting to do. Use the KISS principle when starting out. Don't go all out on equipment you don't need yet or understand. Lot's of advice here, but it all leads in the same direction of success!

Totally forgot an important necessary tool you will need for your reloading, chronograph! We can measure velocity, pressure is a bit more difficult ($$$), but velocity is a byproduct of pressure.

 

[rewiltshire]

+1 on picking up a few reloading manuals. They're not cheap, but all are cheaper than a screwed up reload.

Determine your goals: accuracy, cost savings, fun new hobby, wildcat rounds, prepper, something else? That will drive your path into this hobby.

I suggest taking the NRA Metallic Reloading class, if there's one offered in your area. I'd already been reloading for a few years, and found it to be quite valuable.

Lee is a solid value, but it lacks some features, so it wasn't long before I upgraded to Hornady Lock-n-Load, and it's excellent. But, I'd start with a single stage press, to learn the fundamentals. You might be able to find ram presses at farm auctions, estate sales, etc. but just consider that getting spun up is likely a big investment. Don't go progressive or turret press right out of the gate, work on learning all the fundamentals a step at a time and how to be careful and do good work. Single-stage ram press will be useful to you anyway, even if you move up to a turret or progressive, I have mine setup for .223 depriming & resize station, and it's perfect for that.

I have an old Lyman Crusher that I started with long ago. Bought a RCBS Rock Chucker later on. Got a good deal on a Dillon 550b (press, 5 conversions with toolheads and dies, two powder measures, scale, dial caliper and a bunch of brass/bullets from an estate sale) progressive but not self indexing - would recommend a 650 instead. I have all three set up on the bench. Each one has it's own duty. But I do keep the old Lyman working as my depriming and reforming press. Rock Chucker for more precision loading. Also have a little RCBS Partner Jr on a little portable set up that I carry in the field. Somethings you keep, somethings you trade away. Thought about a turret press, but haven't gotten one - yet. But I have been doing this for many years and picked many things up along the way.
I have found many things for sale/trade at gun shows, estate sales, gun clubs and even shooting matches. So always keep your eyes open.

 

[rewiltshire]

One other thing. It is not bad thing to pick a good used press. One made by a reputable company. I have never had a problem keeping my Lyman, RCBS or Dilling running top notch. Their service departments are top notch and very helpful people - they back their products. I have Redding, Forester and Hornady dies and their service is also the same. I am sure that Lee is the same, it's just I have never dealt with them.

 

[Struggle]

Buy once cry once, get the best you can at first. Even if you find out you don't like reloading you can recoup most of your money if not all. You'll like using quality equipment and so you probably won't sell.

 

[Jacobs]

KaveMan, you got a LOT of good info here. get started. If you start with a single stage press it seems you will learn the fundamentals more clearly, (Takes a lot more time to load rounds) But some recommend buying a progressive press right up front. (Much faster but takes a little while to learn the details) Choice is up to you. A smart guy can start that way with a little patience. I learned that buying CARBIDE dies is worth a small price increase. Not available for every round but they make it so you don't have to use case lube on some calibers. Saves you a little money, time, and stress down the road. They are sold mostly for pistol cartridges. One more thing, a small thing that will save you a rifle barrel and possibly some fingers. I've seen this happen and wouldn't feel right if I didn't mention it. All of us reloaders at one time or another have had either a double load or a squib load. (Even worse than double load). When you finally make it to the range to fire your homemade rounds............maybe not the first or even 10th trip to the range, but if it ever happens that you fire a round that sounds like a cap (Just the primer ignites no powder) no satisfying BOOM like you expect to hear, this is most likely an accidental load with no powder. In MANY cases, this will lodge a bullet inside your barrel. If you are firing fast thru a semi auto, or lever, (Whatever you may be shooting fast) the next round after that will most likely destroy your gun........AND fingers, eyesight, whatever else may be in the way. Be listening close every round till you have become proficient with reloading. You hear a pop instead of a boom, clear your gun, then clear the barrel. A gunsmith can do it or you can usually drive it out with a dowel rod. You'll likely never encounter this with factory ammo, but it is something that happens with reloaders on rare occasions. I see lots of good info here to help you. I'm just the safety guy. Can't help myself. I'm only telling you all this because I get the impression that your going to learn this from books and online. They mostly tell you how to do it right. I rarely see them mention what to do when it goes wrong. Yer gonna love reloading. Get started.

 

[Jacobs]

This girl was lucky, but her instructor should have never let this happen. Start watching around the 20 second mark.

 

[MudRunner2005]

This is a good beginners tutorial video into reloading...

 

[Kaveman44]

KaveMan, you got a LOT of good info here. get started. If you start with a single stage press it seems you will learn the fundamentals more clearly, (Takes a lot more time to load rounds) But some recommend buying a progressive press right up front. (Much faster but takes a little while to learn the details) Choice is up to you. A smart guy can start that way with a little patience. I learned that buying CARBIDE dies is worth a small price increase. Not available for every round but they make it so you don't have to use case lube on some calibers. Saves you a little money, time, and stress down the road. They are sold mostly for pistol cartridges. One more thing, a small thing that will save you a rifle barrel and possibly some fingers. I've seen this happen and wouldn't feel right if I didn't mention it. All of us reloaders at one time or another have had either a double load or a squib load. (Even worse than double load). When you finally make it to the range to fire your homemade rounds............maybe not the first or even 10th trip to the range, but if it ever happens that you fire a round that sounds like a cap (Just the primer ignites no powder) no satisfying BOOM like you expect to hear, this is most likely an accidental load with no powder. In MANY cases, this will lodge a bullet inside your barrel. If you are firing fast thru a semi auto, or lever, (Whatever you may be shooting fast) the next round after that will most likely destroy your gun........AND fingers, eyesight, whatever else may be in the way. Be listening close every round till you have become proficient with reloading. You hear a pop instead of a boom, clear your gun, then clear the barrel. A gunsmith can do it or you can usually drive it out with a dowel rod. You'll likely never encounter this with factory ammo, but it is something that happens with reloaders on rare occasions. I see lots of good info here to help you. I'm just the safety guy. Can't help myself. I'm only telling you all this because I get the impression that your going to learn this from books and online. They mostly tell you how to do it right. I rarely see them mention what to do when it goes wrong. Yer gonna love reloading. Get started.

You can never be to safe and the more info i have to make myself safer the better i am for me and my Family , so im starting to write down equipment i think i would like , i dont mind spending money on nice equipment , the only thing im having a problem on deciding is a press , do certain dies only work with certain presses ect. I think for now i want a single press and just from what i get im gonna want to do some precision reloading eventually and that should be done one at a time right?, so is that something that can be done on a progressive press ?

 

[Susquatch]

You can never be to safe and the more info i have to make myself safer the better i am for me and my Family , so im starting to write down equipment i think i would like , i dont mind spending money on nice equipment , the only thing im having a problem on deciding is a press , do certain dies only work with certain presses ect. I think for now i want a single press and just from what i get im gonna want to do some precision reloading eventually and that should be done one at a time right?, so is that something that can be done on a progressive press ?

Short answer is that all the POPULAR high quality presses work with all the POPULAR high quality dies. They are mostly all 7/8"-14 thread. They are a few of the big guys like 50 BMG that use a 1-1/2-12 thread but even then, the better presses have a removable sleeve to accommodate the bigger dies. You won't go wrong with a top of the line press from Redding, RCBS, or Hornady. They are the big players in this game with lots of suppliers, good prices, and excellent support. If you buy a kit, you will get everything else you need too.

I doubt very much that very many precision shooters use a progressive multi stage press. The top shooters use in-line dies with an arbour press or single stage presses with precision dies. So if you get a single stage press like the Redding Big Boss II or Redding Ultramag (my own favorite) or the RCBS Rock Chucker, or Hornady Lock n Load Iron or Hornady Lock n Load Classic you will be good to go with whatever level of dies you want to get. In fact, RCBS even sells a small kit to convert their Rock Chucker into an arbor press to use with in-line dies. I'll bet the kit fits Redding & Hornady presses too.

If I read between the lines of your note, a single stage press seems to be the way that you are leaning anyway. I am not in any way knocking progressive presses here. They work fine too. But they are aimed at high volume reloading for those who want to load 50 or 100 rounds at a crack. The single stage presses are less costly and are aimed at those who want to experiment with load and seating depth for precision. That said, both will do either job. It's just that a single stage press is slower but is more repeatable and has less parts to wear over time. I like reloading and I treat every single cartridge like a precious jewel so I don't mind taking a little more time to load 20 or 25 rounds to experiment with. Besides, it isn't about getting it done. It's about enjoying the process of doing it!

 

[Kaveman44]

Short answer is that all the POPULAR high quality presses work with all the POPULAR high quality dies. They are mostly all 7/8"-14 thread. They are a few of the big guys like 50 BMG that use a 1-1/2-12 thread but even then, the better presses have a removable sleeve to accommodate the bigger dies. You won't go wrong with a top of the line press from Redding, RCBS, or Hornady. They are the big players in this game with lots of suppliers, good prices, and excellent support. If you buy a kit, you will get everything else you need too.

I doubt very much that very many precision shooters use a progressive multi stage press. The top shooters use in-line dies with an arbour press or single stage presses with precision dies. So if you get a single stage press like the Redding Big Boss II or Redding Ultramag (my own favorite) or the RCBS Rock Chucker, or Hornady Lock n Load Iron or Hornady Lock n Load Classic you will be good to go with whatever level of dies you want to get. In fact, RCBS even sells a small kit to convert their Rock Chucker into an arbor press to use with in-line dies. I'll bet the kit fits Redding & Hornady presses too.

If I read between the lines of your note, a single stage press seems to be the way that you are leaning anyway. I am not in any way knocking progressive presses here. They work fine too. But they are aimed at high volume reloading for those who want to load 50 or 100 rounds at a crack. The single stage presses are less costly and are aimed at those who want to experiment with load and seating depth for precision. That said, both will do either job. It's just that a single stage press is slower but is more repeatable and has less parts to wear over time. I like reloading and I treat every single cartridge like a precious jewel so I don't mind taking a little more time to load 20 or 25 rounds to experiment with. Besides, it isn't about getting it done. It's about enjoying the process of doing it!

i do want a single stage press , at least for now so i can focus on one round at a time, and then maybe down the line if i want to produce quantity i could pick a 5 stage or something that would allow me to do that quicker when i comfortable with it, i have a AR-10 in 308 at the moment so i might start with that as well as my Glock 22 , on shaving Cases i'm leaning towards Lymans Case trimmer (orange in color), looks nice and sturdy and has nice small adjustments , and am thinking i definitely want a wet tumblr for cleaning my casings, like the fact that you don't have to deal with Lead Dust ad much as the dry media ones (safer)

 

[Susquatch]

i do want a single stage press , at least for now so i can focus on one round at a time, and then maybe down the line if i want to produce quantity i could pick a 5 stage or something that would allow me to do that quicker when i comfortable with it, i have a AR-10 in 308 at the moment so i might start with that as well as my Glock 22 , on shaving Cases i'm leaning towards Lymans Case trimmer (orange in color), looks nice and sturdy and has nice small adjustments , and am thinking i definitely want a wet tumblr for cleaning my casings, like the fact that you don't have to deal with Lead Dust ad much as the dry media ones (safer)

All good. Sounds like you are off to a good start. I spent 35 years polishing cases individually every 10 uses or so. I have a Lyman tumbler now and enjoy the freedom it gave me to polish more often. Polishing cases is not a critical reloading step though. I'd be willing to bet that the majority of Reloader NEVER do it. I'm not too worried about dust cuz I blow all my cases out with compressed air anyway. I usually take them to my shop to blow out with my air compressor, but sometimes I just use the canned wind I keep on my reloading bench. In my opinion, it's important to blow out cases anyway. Sometimes, they get dirt in them after they are fired at the range, and sometimes the trim, chamfer, and primer pocket cleaning gets brass and dirt in them too.

The Lyman trimmer is just fine, but don't forget to buy a QUALITY dial caliper too. Personally I would never get anything but a Mitutoyo or Starett, but I'm sure others will argue with that. And FWIW, I REALLY LIKE the old style vernier calipers. But although they never lie, they do have a nasty learning curve that can be intimidating if you are not mathematically inclined and that can cause reading errors. For most new Reloaders I recommend one of the two dial calipers mentioned above. In fact, if you intend to buy and use the Hornady Overall Length Gauges (HOAL) to determine and set your seating depth, then get two dial calipers and dedicate one to the HOAL system.

 

[Kaveman44]

i spent good money on my Caliper , its digital but a nice one. Looking for the HOAL and cant find it , any recommendations on where to look? im also thinking about getting the
Lyman Case Prep Xpress, is that a good machine to do most of the casing prep except Case trimming , someone said it doesnt do a great job on the on the primer pocket cleaning and reforming ? Geting really excited!!!1

 

[Susquatch]

i spent good money on my Caliper , its digital but a nice one. Looking for the HOAL and cant find it , any recommendations on where to look? im also thinking about getting the
Lyman Case Prep Xpress, is that a good machine to do most of the casing prep except Case trimming , someone said it doesnt do a great job on the on the primer pocket cleaning and reforming ? Geting really excited!!!1

HOAL - Brownells/Sinclair, Midway, Amazon, Cabelas, Bruno, EBay, etc etc. They are pretty common. Google "Hornady Overall Length". They come in a straight version for removable bolts and a curved version for automatics. You can buy a case gauge with it or make your own from a fired case that matches your chamber with a drill and tap. I make all my own.

I don't really like any of the prep centers. I much prefer to do all the steps manually with individual tools. That way I never accidentally skip a step. Also, I like the TLC version of reloading over the get it done and over with version.