Uniform Case Length?

Again, me too. I pretty much stopped cleaning brass so I don't want to get it wet. I clean the outside of the neck with 0000 steel wool to remove outside carbon. Brush the inside of the neck with a nylon brush to leave the carbon in the neck. Anneal and then drop the hot case onto a soft folded towel and let it cool.
 
Have cooled with the water bucket quite a bit too. And it is true that it doesn't matter the method. The results are the same. The only issue I have with dropping the hot brass on a towel is, you have to make sure the towel is 100% cotton. if it has rayon or polyester kinda synthetics mixed in it, the hot neck will melt it and it will stick to the neck!
 
Have cooled with the water bucket quite a bit too. And it is true that it doesn't matter the method. The results are the same. The only issue I have with dropping the hot brass on a towel is, you have to make sure the towel is 100% cotton. if it has rayon or polyester kinda synthetics mixed in it, the hot neck will melt it and it will stick to the neck!
Paper towel can light up from hot brass too lol.

Yesterday I did some brass, found this old butane bottle with a torch head on it tucked away in the shop. Shook it and was thought I might as well use it up. It was leaking around the shutoff valve and on the 3rd piece brass the whole **** torch lights up on fire.
Made annealing abnormally exciting!
 
When dealing with Ferrous and Non Ferrous metals, A person has to understand their properties.

Ferrous Metal contains Iron, By adding carbon when heated to red and quenched it makes the object hard, Then the temper must be drawn or heat soaked (Heat Treating) to make it tough and hard.
To soften Ferrous Metal, Heat it to red hot and then cool it very slow. In machine shops they usually have a lime box to bury red hot steel in over night or over the week end to soften the steel so it can be machined.

Non Ferrous Metal, Brass and copper being the most common react exactly opposite.
Heat red hot and quench softens it. Heat red and cool slow hardens it.

As Loaders of ammunition, When annealing brass we need to find the happy medium of Hard enough to hold bullets firmly in the neck of the case, But soft enough the case necks will not split and allowing wild cat cartridges be formed without damage to the case.
 
Tried my hand at annealing some brass yesterday, tractor supply had a propane torch super cheap so what the heck. I've watched several videos and everybody's an expert. Seen several pictures on here of peoples annealed brass with experienced people chiming in saying it looks good. Mine doesn't quite have the color difference down into the shoulder like most of the pictures I've seen. It was a mixture of federal brass, most once fired some twice fired no way to know the difference. I wasnt very well organized when I started down the reloading path. Should I try again? Just load it up? What should I do?
 
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