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Tuning an M—77 Mark II 30.06

What do you think, tighten to 95 ft.lbs. I believe Ruger says, or tighten to H-S Preciscion's 65 ft.lbs.? Not the easiest screw either, whoever decided to use slot screws on an action obviously does not work on rifles.
I replaced mine with buttonhead machine screws.

And +1 on stripping the barrel between the Barnes TTSX and regular bullets. The Barnes bullet is soft copper and the regular bullets are guilding metal. The two don't mix in the same bore.
 
I have the same setup except i put mine in a Rogue stock with aluminum bedding block. It shoots great and loves 59g or Superformance powder shooting 178 eldx bullets. The superformance powder works magical in the 30-06 getting much higher velocities and outstanding accuracy compared to anything else i have found.
 
View attachment 132429 I'm trying to do a buddy a solid and build him a hunting round for his Ruger M-77 Mark II in 30.06. I've put a Timney and an H-S Preciscion stock on it. I've been testing seating depth with Berger VLD Hunters 168gr. with a moderate load of Varget. I haven't been able to get them to group at all. Changed to IMR4831 but no real difference, will try H-4350 next. I am thinking of changing projectiles to something a bit easier to tune. Any "go to" projectiles with a jump range for white tails and muleys 400yds and under. I have read (One powder to rule them all) and am looking for the projectile now. 8yrs reloading, and long gunning. Any advise is appreciated.
Blake

After checking screw tensions on stock and scope rings, I like 185 gr Berger Classic Hunter seated to OAL 3.35" with 54 gr RL-17 or 53 gr RL-16 and cci 200 primer. The classic hunters work well with SAAMI magazine length on the model 77. Haven't tried the 168 gr.
 
I've got some 168 TTSX and H-4350. I'll look into getting some Gamekings, Accubonds and Interbonds in 180gr.
Thanks

I've loaded Barnes .308 168gr TTSX with H-4350 and achieved just under 1 MOA in several of my 30-06s. The Barnes .308 180gr TTSX with @ 56.5 to 57.5gr of H-4350 shot even better in all of them, grouping just under 3/4 MOA or better and produced velocities a little under of 2,700 fps out of the 22" barrels, and just over from the 24" barrels.

Recently I started loading the Barnes .308 200gr LRX bullets on top of @ 56.5gr of Reloder 23 (RL-23) and magnum primers in my 30-06s with excellent results. Accuracy has been @ 1/2 MOA in multiple rifles and velocities have been running @ 2,650 fps. This load is not listed in any loading manual that I've seen but, shows zero excess pressure signs in any of my rifles. As when using any new load or load component, reduce the charge by 10% and work up in your rifle!
 
I have a M77MKII in 30-06. I've owned it since 1996 and have shot several thousand rounds with it. I use IMR 4350, Remington brass, Remington 9 1/2 primers and either Sierra, Nosler or Speer 180 grain bullets. My charge weight is around 55.0 to 55.7 grains of powder. I also have a timney trigger in the rifle. But I'm using the original stock. I've never had a reason to change it out. A few years ago, after taking it out of the stock for its semi-annual complete cleaning, my accuracy dropped from 1" to around 1.8 or worse. I bought a torque driver, and reviewed how to set the action screws. I then set the main (angled) screw to 45 inch/pounds and the back screw to about 30 inch/pounds. The rifle subsequently shot into 0.7 inches with 5 shots at 100 yards. My first step would be to go back to the original stock and torque the action in properly. Then use IMR 4350 and a 180 grain Ballistic Tip and Sierra Gameking bullet as a projectile. Velocities will be in the 2650 to 1675fps range, and it will work just fine out to 450 or 500 yards with these bullets. (Speer 180 grain HotCor is also a good bullet for this rifle.) If it shoots in the original stock, then check out the HS stock and think about some upward pressure at the end of the stock, like the original Ruger stock supplies. Some barrels just need that upward pressure and dampening effect and won't shoot well when free-floated. By the way, my Ruger doesn't shoot as well with 165/168 grain bullets as it does with 180 grain bullets. It will shoot them with about a 1.2" accuracy at 100 yards. It does, however, like the Hornaday Amax in 178 grains. Too bad they're not making them any more.
 
What do you think, tighten to 95 ft.lbs. I believe Ruger says, or tighten to H-S Preciscion's 65 ft.lbs.? Not the easiest screw either, whoever decided to use slot screws on an action obviously does not work on rifles.

I have a safe full of Ruger 77 tang safety rifles, and one Hawkeye. Ruger recommends 95 inch pounds, but I cannot ever get the front screw over 65 inch pounds. They recommend putting glass between the tang and the stock, and tighten the two receiver screws enough so they do not loosen on their own. If you can or have the rear screw pillar bedded even better, then you are tightening metal against metal. When I read a post like yours, I always start with going back to the basics. I always lap my scope rings in, it is amazing when you start to lap them and you find just how much they are out. I always check the base screws, torqued to 30 inch pounds, and the scope rings at 20 inch pounds. I have a 35 Whelen that can easily sneak up and loosen during a day at the range. It leaves asking yourself, "What is wrong, why is my rifle acting like this?" Make sure that you do not have scope problems. If you have a scope on a rifle that you know is good, try it on the rifle you are having trouble with. Or visa versa try the scope from the rifle that you are having grouping problems with on a rifle that you know groups good. I always free float my barrels from 4 inches forward of the recoil lug, and glass bed the entire action. From the photo you posted it looks like the rifle has been tweaked out already. I don't know who did the build/work I do believe however that it would be good to check the areas that I have suggested to you just in case.
 
Sierra 165 hpbt and imr 4350 works very well. Not the fastest or sleekest but it's a traditional combo that flat out works for game up through elk to your specified yardages. I watched this combo work many times in elk and it usually passes completely through liquefying lungs and heart, good luck, imr 4350 works well in the 3006
 
Alibiiv gave you some very good advice. But like him, I can't get the front screw (angled action screw) much past 50 in/lb. I also didn't free float my barrel. I don't think mine needs it. It already shoots inside 5 inches at around 600 yards, so I'm not messing with a good thing. Oh, and I recommend the P2 3 to 10 Shepherd scope for glass. I use three of them on my 30-06's and my 35 Whelen. They work extremely well as a hunting scope.
 
Man I was surprised to hear that's their recommendation. But that's what they say on the video.

Yes I was surprised when they told me that too. I have tried unsuccessfully to get that front screw to 95 inch pounds. I really do fear stripping out that front recoil lug screw, if that screw strips out where to we go from there? There really is not a whole lot of meat on that recoil lug to open it up and retap it to a larger diameter screw. I am satisfied with the performance at 65 inch pounds that I am getting, and.....NOT stripping that screw out.
 
If someone confirms with the factory then I guess it's okay. But I agree it would make me nervous too.
 
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