Trouble with Scope Mounting - Used up all Elevation?

[lhshooter43]

I use 20 moa bases on most rifles. My LR guns I use 40 moa bases.

 

[gilk1]

20 moa base, bed, done.

 

[Lenny Foffa]

I shoot 50 yards sight in to Zero, this will still put me high at 100 yards. Then dial it in to 100 yard zero if that's what you want. I just did this this last week. Put a new Leupold 4.5X to 14 X with a 30mm Tube ,on the rifle. I kept the Leupold bases, but needed new 30mm Medium Height Rings . I brought my .270 Win to about 1.6 " high at 100 yds ,to make it Zero at 200 yards with 130 Grn Nosler Ballistic tip at 3000 fps Muz. Vel.

 

[CHRIS MCBRIDE]

Method works great. I use similar all the time to save rounds.Gets close enough that 1 or 2 adjustments are all that is normally needed.

I have had same issue with two rifles one had high mounted scope using see thru mounts( which I hate) not my rifle and the other was a a buddy's rifle. Switching to one piece rail worked in both cases.

 

[Stgraves260]

I had an issue today I've not had before. I put Leupold Backcountry High 2 piece rings/bases on my Rem 700 long action rifle. Mounted a newly acquired Zeiss Conquest Hd5 3-15x50 scope.

Since I'm an hours drive from the range and bad weather, decided to do the old bore scope method. Had a target 25 feet away and took bolt out and fixed the gun so the bore was directly on the target centered in the barrel. Then I went about matching the z-plex reticle to the same target. I was able to get the reticle on the target on windage with ease - about middle of turret.

However, when I tried to bring the reticle in the vertical, I got it centered on the target to match the bore view, but I had used all my elevation - no turns on the turret left for elevation.

I don't think it is the scope, but not sure.

I'm left with the idea that I might have to buy Warne Maxima two-piece steel mounts and Warne 1" Maxima Horizontal mounts as I've read that these bases are higher on the rear which might give me some elevation boost by being higher on the rear.

If you have any ideas, am I on the right track here? Or do you really think the scope might have an issue. Or, is this redimentary method just that and I need to go to the range to confirm?

My question is how many MOA adjustments are in the scope? It should be with the paper work. Back in my younger days when I new it all. I bought a Swarovski scope cause I was told it was the best. It was very clear glass, but with only 40 MOAs of adjustments on the elevation it was not even enough to sight it in. I swapped it twice because I thought it was a defect in a $4000 scope. Nope. It was made that way. I have learned you need a minimum of 50 MOAs of elevation in a scope to be able to zero most rifles.

 

[Russell Sonner]

You have .68"+ 1"+ .5" = 2.18" from the center of your bore to the center of your optic with your actions radius, mount height and scope radius. Your scope has a +/- 30 MOA range adj. with the reticle centered in its range. To lower your impact to be on target at 6 yds with a 1/4 MOA dial, it is approx 64 clicks per inch or about 140 clicks. This represents a 35 MOA movement of your reticle to zero your scope to 25 feet. So you can see the reason you were unable to reach center. I recommend you sight your scope to a point slightly less than the 2.18", say 2" above the bore and you will be shooting slightly above "flat" which will be close enough to get you on paper at 25, 50 or 100 yds, your choice. This is how I adjust my scopes close before going to the range. Hope this helps.

 

[Montana73]

Thanks everyone for your assistance. Put the new Pictatinny 20MOA rail and the Burris Maxima rings with the inserts on the back and went to the range. Am zeroed and have elevation needed for long range. Lesson learned.