I actually have a Tornado warning horn on a high pole 447 yards from my patio door. Gun in vise, horn in bore, center Xhairs, and I can start at 100 and am usually pretty darn close. As stated, use a target out a ways.
Trouble with Scope Mounting - Used up all Elevation?
- Thread starter Montana73
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Flare
Well-Known Member
Leupold makes shims that you can put under your rear mount Just had this issue with my daughters rifle also he explained that when moving winds he over can limit how much up travel you have That's why their mounts you can adjust the windage with as much as possible then fine tune with the turret Call Leupold they will explain it too you better that's I can
Corey
Corey
tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
Romans 14: 11&12
11 It is written as surely as I live, says the Lord
every knee shall bow before me;
every tongue will confess to God
12 So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God.
A good verse, well to be remembered. The above is copied from the Berean study bible.
thwatson2
Well-Known Member
Not sure your method is very sound? Either use a laser bore sight or bring the rig to the range... bring plenty ammo if you have far drive. mount scope count elevation clicks and mount it at midway. Shoot at 30 feet on large cardboard box and move out. I usually can sight a scope in under 10 rounds to get to 100yd. I have Watched a lot of guys do your method, but it seems very unreliable for a projectile that travels in an arc.
Savage 12BVSS
Well-Known Member
Exactly, need to use in matched sets they work great even on hard recoilers without making the scope look used if you move it with ugly ring marks.
And to add, its 25yds not feet for a rezero at around 200-225 yds. Had one of those sight in sliding cards many years back, it would give you above and below zero out to 350yds. Was called the Marlin Sight-In Guide.
I'm sure that someone might have mentioned it before but because I don't have the time to read all replies, I will leave mine regardless. Basically I see several possible scenarios.
#1. Front and rear ring inserts got reversed.
#2. Rail mount is mounted backwards.
#3. If rings attach directly to the rifle (Ruger, CZ, SAKO, and some others) rings might be switched from front to back.
#4. Zero Stop was previously set.
#5. Rings are mismatched heights.
#6. Turret is broken.
#7. Scope mounted with windage adjustment on top (yes, I have seen this three times in my life).
Remove the scope from the rings and run a straight edge touching the bottom of both the rings downwards to the end of your barrel with it long enough to hang over the ends of your action and barrel. Run a full length cleaning rod through your barrel extending it out over both ends of your rifle. Measure the distance between them in the front and the rear of your rifle. If the distance is smaller in the front than the rear, your problem is your rings or base mount. If the distance between is longer in front of your barrel than it is at the rear then, the problem is with your scope.
#1. Front and rear ring inserts got reversed.
#2. Rail mount is mounted backwards.
#3. If rings attach directly to the rifle (Ruger, CZ, SAKO, and some others) rings might be switched from front to back.
#4. Zero Stop was previously set.
#5. Rings are mismatched heights.
#6. Turret is broken.
#7. Scope mounted with windage adjustment on top (yes, I have seen this three times in my life).
Remove the scope from the rings and run a straight edge touching the bottom of both the rings downwards to the end of your barrel with it long enough to hang over the ends of your action and barrel. Run a full length cleaning rod through your barrel extending it out over both ends of your rifle. Measure the distance between them in the front and the rear of your rifle. If the distance is smaller in the front than the rear, your problem is your rings or base mount. If the distance between is longer in front of your barrel than it is at the rear then, the problem is with your scope.
I always bore site at the range at a 100yds. I have found a 2" brightly colored dot works well to center the bore. Twice I have used this method recently and first shots were actually on the dot. The other times it been very close and not needed much to get a good zero. Until you actually try it and shoot at least a 100yds I would not worry about getting the reticle centered at 25ft.
villagelightsmith
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2013
- Messages
- 234
Each ring needs either identical inserts or 1+ and 1- (matched) inserts. The inserts are each marked + or -, with a number of 0 to 3. Visualize. The + insert is a bit thicker. The - insert is a bit thinner. The numbers tell you how much thicker or thinner. If you've got a -3 on the top, you might do well to have a +3 on the bottom. Or if you need no offsets, a pair of "zero" inserts would be called for. Visualize.
Before anything else, I set the scope on a pair of machinist's V-blocks and rotate the scope while looking at a distant object. I fiddle with the adjustments until the crosshairs remain centered when the scope is rotated. Purpose => I am trying to align the optical axis with the axis of the scope tube.
Then I grab to a pair of medium or tall Burris Signature rings. I like taller rings to get the bullet's flight's intersections farther downrange and give me a little more latitude for point-blank shooting. The critters can't tell much difference.
Each ring gets a pair of inserts. The rear ring gets either "0" inserts top and bottom, or a + insert on the bottom and a - insert on the top. This raises that end of the scope to a point above the axis of the bare rings.
The front scope ring gets inserts either identical to the rear (rarely) or more often, a - insert on the bottom and a + insert of [equal numeration] in the top. This drops the front of the scope so the crosshairs will intersect the bullet's flight at some point. In theory.
Then, with much genuflection and secret incantations, I try to rotate the inserts a bit inside the ring to get the horizontal gremlins worked out. Leaving the rings anchored to their mounts and just loosening their grip on the scope tube until I get it right is the easiest way for me. Always bring that little wrench. Or two.
One range day I was working up a load on a little Fireball when all the magic worked. The bullets were flying far too fast, but by the end of the day they were punching the paper within 0.15" every time. Feeling well satisfied with the results, I began tearing down the bench stuff and loading the truck. Then I picked up the rifle ... by the scope. The durned scope rotated and slipped easily in the rings. The rings and inserts had been tight on the rifle but finger-loose on the scope the whole day.
Before anything else, I set the scope on a pair of machinist's V-blocks and rotate the scope while looking at a distant object. I fiddle with the adjustments until the crosshairs remain centered when the scope is rotated. Purpose => I am trying to align the optical axis with the axis of the scope tube.
Then I grab to a pair of medium or tall Burris Signature rings. I like taller rings to get the bullet's flight's intersections farther downrange and give me a little more latitude for point-blank shooting. The critters can't tell much difference.
Each ring gets a pair of inserts. The rear ring gets either "0" inserts top and bottom, or a + insert on the bottom and a - insert on the top. This raises that end of the scope to a point above the axis of the bare rings.
The front scope ring gets inserts either identical to the rear (rarely) or more often, a - insert on the bottom and a + insert of [equal numeration] in the top. This drops the front of the scope so the crosshairs will intersect the bullet's flight at some point. In theory.
Then, with much genuflection and secret incantations, I try to rotate the inserts a bit inside the ring to get the horizontal gremlins worked out. Leaving the rings anchored to their mounts and just loosening their grip on the scope tube until I get it right is the easiest way for me. Always bring that little wrench. Or two.
One range day I was working up a load on a little Fireball when all the magic worked. The bullets were flying far too fast, but by the end of the day they were punching the paper within 0.15" every time. Feeling well satisfied with the results, I began tearing down the bench stuff and loading the truck. Then I picked up the rifle ... by the scope. The durned scope rotated and slipped easily in the rings. The rings and inserts had been tight on the rifle but finger-loose on the scope the whole day.
It's incredibly arrogant and disrespectful to reply to post that you haven't "had time to read" and expect to fully understand or cure the situation.
I didn't want to waste my time reading your response but the solution is simple:
20moa 1piece base, bed, done.
aushunter1
Well-Known Member
I use a Leupold bore sighter to get on paper at 100mtrs (110yrds) but if that ever fails go straight to the 25mtr target at the range.
I have also used the through the barrel method @ 25mtrs with success.
Try that 1st before doing anything to drastic!
I have also used the through the barrel method @ 25mtrs with success.
Try that 1st before doing anything to drastic!
Or adjust the scope to hit 2" high vs your boresight, at 25 feet to start with.
Bullet aint dropping THAT fast. If your scope has 1/4 MOA adjustment, each click is a mere 1/32" at 12.5 YARDS; or 37.5 feet. So 64 clicks up should get you close and restore your vertical range.
Last edited:
