Trigger Question

I have used several Timney triggers with good results. I am also able to do a lot of my own trigger tuning as well.
The only bad experience I have had was with a Basix trigger in a Ruger 77 .257 Roberts. Just couldn't get it right.
 
I have done a few trigger jobs for myself. I won't do them for others (liability). I myself prefer aftermarket triggers. Takes too long to get an OEM half as good as aftermarket - I value my time. Just relax at the bench with your eyes closed and feel the difference between a Jewell or a Triggertech and an OEM trigger all set to the same specs - you will then know the difference and when to take advantage of it.
 
Timney all the way on every hunting gun I have. Most were Remingtons with X Mark Pro. 4 of them on a recall. No way I was packing 4 rifles up, removing optics, etc.
Set at 2 to 2.5 pounds. Factory triggers are just not good, especially on the Rugers.
 
One advantage of some aftermarket triggers is what they are made out of. For instance TriggerTech is made from all stainless and aluminum. Don't have to worry as much about getting that wet AND the trigger tech only uses one hex wrench for the weight adjustment. How they are built you simply don't have to worry about creep at all. I started off doing my own trigger jobs until I got good at it and if you can get the lighter springs at erniethegunsmith dot com or the such you end up with a nice trigger, go with a timney, shilen, or several of the other brands and you have even a nicer trigger, go with a triggertech and you have what I'd consider the best. Many of the PRS shooters are switching over to them from other high end triggers and that says a lot. I'm in the process of switching all of my guns over to use the same trigger I like it so much (and I like a consistent pull regardless of what rifle I pull out) Most of my guns run a two pound trigger except for long range rigs, those typically run 14-16oz. triggertech.com/collections/bolt-action if you want more info on them. I run the special with a flat trigger so I can get down to 14oz. I have one diamond but that doesn't have a bolt release but for bench shooting it is awesome. I think most people would be happy with the primary at 1.5 pounds - 4 pounds and they all break exactly the same. Good luck in your trigger quest...it has taken me 10 years and almost as many triggers to get to be a trigger snob but I like what I like and I haven't had anyone shoot one that didn't like it too. :)
 
One advantage of some aftermarket triggers is what they are made out of. For instance TriggerTech is made from all stainless and aluminum. Don't have to worry as much about getting that wet AND the trigger tech only uses one hex wrench for the weight adjustment. How they are built you simply don't have to worry about creep at all. I started off doing my own trigger jobs until I got good at it and if you can get the lighter springs at erniethegunsmith dot com or the such you end up with a nice trigger, go with a timney, shilen, or several of the other brands and you have even a nicer trigger, go with a triggertech and you have what I'd consider the best. Many of the PRS shooters are switching over to them from other high end triggers and that says a lot. I'm in the process of switching all of my guns over to use the same trigger I like it so much (and I like a consistent pull regardless of what rifle I pull out) Most of my guns run a two pound trigger except for long range rigs, those typically run 14-16oz. triggertech.com/collections/bolt-action if you want more info on them. I run the special with a flat trigger so I can get down to 14oz. I have one diamond but that doesn't have a bolt release but for bench shooting it is awesome. I think most people would be happy with the primary at 1.5 pounds - 4 pounds and they all break exactly the same. Good luck in your trigger quest...it has taken me 10 years and almost as many triggers to get to be a trigger snob but I like what I like and I haven't had anyone shoot one that didn't like it too. :)

Too funny! At this point, I think I have 7 or 8 Trigger Tech triggers. And I love them too.

Like you, I started out doing my own. On very rare occasions, I still do. Altogether I think I've had 6 Jewells, 3 Timney, 2 Canjars, and one Jard (only available aftermarket trigger for a Cooper). It's REALLY hard to beat a Jewell, but I think the Trigger Tech gets pretty darn close at 1/2 the price (more or less depending on options).

My only complaint about the Trigger Tech is the lack of an overtravel adjustment. I spoke to their engineer about this shortcoming and he swore up and down that it wasn't necessary with their roller design. I dunno about that.

The very best bench rest shooters like Tony Boyer and Mike Ratigan all believe in high over travel to eliminate the chance that your finger hits the stop BEFORE the bullet leaves the barrel. I don't shoot well enough to be able to know the difference and the math to calculate it (even as an engineer) hurts my head too much. The jury is still out on that matter.

Till then I've been very very happy with the Triggertech triggers I have.
 
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Timney makes a good trig...
Want one that is bullet proof try a Jewel..Arnold makes a trig for the Remington 700 that is a 1 to 3 lb adjustable. Stainless steel is easy to maintain....
 
ok, if you have a stock action with the standard trigger that came in it and have a gunsmith do a "trigger job" on and it comes back very crisp and feels great.....what's the advantage to getting an aftermarket trigger?
If it feels great, and you shoot well, I'd stick with it and give it some time before jumping to an aftermarket. I have some excellent factory triggers that were tuned by gunsmiths that I would never replace with an aftermarket trigger. Perhaps give some aftermarket triggers a try with other shooters/friends rifles if possible to establish a comparison. IMO.
 
Too funny! At this point, I think I have 7 or 8 Trigger Tech triggers. And I love them too.

Like you, I started out doing my own. On very rare occasions, I still do. Altogether I think I've had 6 Jewells, 3 Timney, 2 Canjars, and one Jard (only available aftermarket trigger for a Cooper). It's REALLY hard to beat a Jewell, but I think the Trigger Tech gets pretty darn close at 1/2 the price (more or less depending on options).

My only complaint about the Trigger Tech is the lack of an overtravel adjustment. I spoke to their engineer about this shortcoming and he swore up and down that it wasn't necessary with their roller design. I dunno about that.

The very best bench rest shooters like Tony Boyer and Mike Ratigan all believe in high over travel to eliminate the chance that your finger hits the stop BEFORE the bullet leaves the barrel. I don't shoot well enough to be able to know the difference and the math to calculate it (even as an engineer) hurts my head too much. The jury is still out on that matter.

Till then I've been very very happy with the Triggertech triggers I have.

I am a believer of having sufficient over-travel in my triggers. IMO, the style of shooting and accuracy requirement plays a role in whether over-travel effects the results. If you are shooting +15#, light caliber(recoiling) rifles, and a free recoil style which is typical in the bench rest sports, and, has recently become the prevailing style with the PRS shooters, the degree of overtravel may not have a high degree of influence on precision. This may be even more so with the less stringent accuracy requirements with the PRS game. Lighten the rifle, increase recoil, and shoot with a hard hold, you are more likely to see the effects of insufficient over-travel. Many years ago shooting factory class Egg Shoots with a 308 with lighter rifles(<12 pounds), aftermarket stocks and triggers were the only modifications allowed, most of us used Jewel triggers which allow the full adjustment range of over-travel. Myself along with several other shooters in the same class found that dialing in sufficient over-travel with our Jewels did make a material difference in precision/control of flyers when pre-bullet exit barrel movement and and a hard hold was required, as was the case with lighter 308's. However, this admittingly continues to be a highly debated subject amongst shooters.....
 
I am a believer of having sufficient over-travel in my triggers. IMO, the style of shooting and accuracy requirement plays a role in whether over-travel effects the results. If you are shooting +15#, light caliber(recoiling) rifles, and a free recoil style which is typical in the bench rest sports, and, has recently become the prevailing style with the PRS shooters, the degree of overtravel may not have a high degree of influence on precision. This may be even more so with the less stringent accuracy requirements with the PRS game. Lighten the rifle, increase recoil, and shoot with a hard hold, you are more likely to see the effects of insufficient over-travel. Many years ago shooting factory class Egg Shoots with a 308 with lighter rifles(<12 pounds), aftermarket stocks and triggers were the only modifications allowed, most of us used Jewel triggers which allow the full adjustment range of over-travel. Myself along with several other shooters in the same class found that dialing in sufficient over-travel with our Jewels did make a material difference in precision/control of flyers when pre-bullet exit barrel movement and and a hard hold was required, as was the case with lighter 308's. However, this admittingly continues to be a highly debated subject amongst shooters.....

Yup, that pretty much sums up my concerns. But I don't know if they apply to the Triggertech design.

I would LOVE to see a thorough analysis of the Triggertech design. There are a few considerations that might affect the results despite my misgivings. They are just musings not facts. First, I openly admit that:
1. I like the Triggertech triggers
2. I am concerned about lack of over travel.
3. I don't shoot well enough anymore to test the difference.

So here we go....

1. Does the bullet really leave the barrel before the trigger reaches the end of its travel? I don't know.
2. How much does pull weight affect this? I don't know.
3. Does the fact that pull force does not "release" on the Triggertech affect this? I don't know. What I mean by this is that my finger cannot tell when the sear drops because there is no change in force or movement between unfired and fired.
4. Does the momentum of the trigger finger really affect this? I don't know.
5. Does the roller on the trigger tech affect this? I don't know.
6. Does the apparent lack of creep or travel of any kind in the trigger tech affect this? I don't know.

Lots of questions, no answers.
 
I prefer very light trigger pull weight, zero creep, and limited over travel in my triggers. No factory trigger I know of can be SAFELY adjusted down below about 1.5-2#. I like 6oz to 1lb max for my rifles, including my hunting rifles.

Light triggers do help accuracy. It is not just a technique issue. If it was, F class/benchrest shooters or PRS shooters would not have the need for very light triggers. If you have ever shot a 4.5lb trigger vs. an 8oz trigger, you can attest to this. Even a 2# vs. 8oz can make a difference.
 
I don't know if a trig with or without over travel really makes a difference in groups. I do know that the locking or unlocking ie the repeatability or consistency of the trigger is important. That's why I go with a Jewel....
 
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