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To brake or not to brake

cohunt said:
I like brakes, and suppressors--not all of my rifles have them but that is because not all of them are threaded-- they help me personally no matter what cartridge I shoot--I am not a professional shooter--- this back and forth banter is amusing -- everyone has their own opinion

here is some info on "what the pro's use" -- but these are "just" prs shooters :rolleyes:
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/12/12/rifle-suppressor/
Click to expand...
It isn't opinions that bother me. It is stating things as fact that are not. Ask top shooters and rifle builders if trigger weight affects accuracy. Ask them if rifle weight affects accuracy. Then ask about recoil. All will say yes based on physics and personal experience. I just don't want a new guy to shooting getting confused.
 
Clem Bronkoski said:
I have a Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5 CM. Recoil is modest to say the least but I was wondering if there is any benefit to putting a muzzlebrake on it other than a "looking cool" factor.
I'm so used to shooting my .45-70s that this is like shooting a .22 LR. So any benefit to the MB?
Click to expand...
it's never a question for me. Always a brake. Why endure more recoil than you have to and have less accurate shots? If your barrel is already threaded, toss a break on it. I have a APA Micro Bastard on my 280 Ackley which is a stupid light rifle and it's pleasant to shoot all day.
 
Didn't read all the threads after the ****ing contest took off on reticle movement, spotting impact, etc., but for what it is worth, it is proven fact by several manufacturers that brakes on some guns with some loads increased speed over apple to apple comparisons non-braked. Let the physicists explain this one for us.
 
I put brakes on low recoil rifles when target shooting then remove and use weighted thread protector for hunts. If you want a real benefit on a 6.5 Creedmoor, which is minimal recoil, place a suppressor.
 
I shoot a .338 and it's got a very nice stock. It doesn't kick very
much at all. I have no trouble shooting a 1" 3 shot group at 100 yds.
off the bench. (most of the time). If my gun kicked any more than
that I would put a brake on it.
Zeke
 
I have a 338 WM as my main hunting rifle. Been debating a brake for some time on it. Recoil does not bother me, but I do notice the farther the target is out there, or the higher I turn my scope up, the harder it is stay on target after the shot. My biggest draw to a brake would be the ability to keep the target in my scope from shot to shot. Would a brake do this, if so, what brake design is best suited to this?
 
I use Area 419 self timing and I'm sure there are other nice ones out there.
I have this crazy thread over break that I'm going to change. I'll lose that little thread
protector ring sure as the world.
 
I am going to take this in a slightly different direction. I break everything and use a Silencer Co Omega 300 on everything from .223 to 28 Nosler. I use the ASR break, this gives me the best of both worlds:
1. The ability to use 1 suppressor on many rifles.
2. A muzzle break or flash suppressor if you should so choose on all of my rifles.

Just my 2 cents. I am a huge suppressor fan so my break choices reflect the type of suppressor I intend to use as well as the versatility.
 
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