Threading a Tikka t3x Superlight

[ADSshooter]

Want to preface by saying I'm new to hunting and owning a gun in general, hence joining the forum to learn. I've bought a Tikka t3x Superlight .300 win mag and want to get a muzzle break threaded on. Do any of you have any recommendations or know if threading a light barrel would even be safe? I've got the terminator t1 or t1+ in mind. I've seen a few people say a 1/2x28 is a good thread for the gun but I'm unsure if they are speaking of the superlight specifically. I'll take any insight and muzzle/thread recommendations you all got. Hell pictures of your tikka setup if you've got one would be Awsome too. As I said I'm new so I'm soaking it all in like a sponge right now, thank you!

 

[Idaho Lefty]

PVA did the 1/2 x 28 threading, on my Tikka T-3, SS Lite ( the NON- Fluted Version ) and I installed their "Back Country", 3 Port Brake on it,.. I'm VERY Pleased with, the Brake and the "Work" they did ! The Rifle group's from, the 3's to 1/2 MOA with, 130 gr. ELD-M's, Handloaded and about, 1/2 to 5/8th's MOA with, the 143 gr. ELD-X's . Call them and Ask if, the "Super Lite" can be, Done,.. Safely.
I've owned 3 Tikka's and ALL have been, SS Lites ( Non- Fluted ) so I can't Say for, sure.
They've threaded my old, .270 WSM Tikka T-3 Lite for my grandson and my New 6.5 Creed. both, W/ 1/2 x 28 threads.
My grandson can shoot, a Box or More of Ammo thru, the .270 WSM ( 140's at, 3,175 FPS ) with their Jet Blast Brake, on it !

 

[Mblackmon4]

Before you go mailing your gun off you might talk to local gunshops. A lot of times they know of a local gunsmith that can thread a barrel and put a brake on as that is typically considered an easy job.
My local gunsmith charges $80 to thread a barrel

 

[FEENIX]

Want to preface by saying I'm new to hunting and owning a gun in general, hence joining the forum to learn. I've bought a Tikka t3x Superlight .300 win mag and want to get a muzzle break threaded on. Do any of you have any recommendations or know if threading a light barrel would even be safe? I've got the terminator t1 or t1+ in mind. I've seen a few people say a 1/2x28 is a good thread for the gun but I'm unsure if they are speaking of the superlight specifically. I'll take any insight and muzzle/thread recommendations you all got. Hell pictures of your tikka setup if you've got one would be Awsome too. As I said I'm new so I'm soaking it all in like a sponge right now, thank you!

Welcome to LRH, and enjoy! Yes, it can be threaded for a muzzle brake. Do you have a gunsmith near you, or will you ship it? One of my .300 WM (not a Tikka) has a thin barrel, .625" at the muzzle, with a 1/2-28" thread for a muzzle brake. Depending on the reputable gunsmith, he can build an adapter/shoulder and thread it for 5/8-24" like in the video.



Some thin barrels threaded in 1/2-28" ...

.300 WM with QD muzzle brake by Holland (my first MB was done in 2003).

.30 Gibbs with Ross Schuler brake.

7MM SAUM with muzzle bake and more 4-port little beast brake.

 

[ADSshooter]

The muzzle break I'm looking at is self timing so I could put it on myself. Do you think it's best to order the muzzle break first and take it in with the gun or have my gunsmith thread it first then find a muzzle break?

 

[wilehunting]

The muzzle break I'm looking at is self timing so I could put it on myself. Do you think it's best to order the muzzle break first and take it in with the gun or have my gunsmith thread it first then find a muzzle break?

The diameter of the barrel at the muzzle dictates what it can be threaded to. Being that yours is a super light it will be about 0.630 at the muzzle. 1/2x
28 threads will be the only real choice. The brake will need to be a 1/2x28 threaded version or you will need an adapter.

 

[med358-boise]

Welcome to LRH, and enjoy! Yes, it can be threaded for a muzzle brake. Do you have a gunsmith near you, or will you ship it? One of my .300 WM (not a Tikka) has a thin barrel, .525" at the muzzle, with a 1/2-28" thread for a muzzle brake. Depending on the reputable gunsmith, he can build an adapter/shoulder and thread it for 5/8-24" like in the video.

^^^ This

it's a little hard to see but if you zoom in you can see two different hexagonal "nuts" at the rear of the can. The first (closer to the action) is the adapter that is used to "increase" the size of the barrel and the other is the back side of the can. That is a factory T3-X superlite bbl same thing can of course be done for a brake.

 

[HRM Johnny]

Welcome from Virginia.

 

[FEENIX]

The muzzle break I'm looking at is self timing so I could put it on myself. Do you think it's best to order the muzzle break first and take it in with the gun or have my gunsmith thread it first then find a muzzle break?

I also have quite a few self-timing brakes, but none on thin barrels. Which "muzzle brake" are you looking for? If you value your gunsmith's input, as a courtesy, I would still consult with him, self-timing or not. You said so yourself ...

Want to preface by saying I'm new to hunting and owning a gun in general, hence joining the forum to learn.

 

[med358-boise]

I would talk with the gunsmith first and ask him what he thinks about the project and get his input. It has been my experience, using gunsmiths for 35 plus years they that can have idiosyncrasies about their work/business habits. Some approach their work with great flexibility and problem solving and others have very strict ways as how to do something and if you deviate from their norm they don't want to do the work.

 

[Tiny Tim]

Welcome to the forum.

I'm not sure the brake you refer to is available in 1/2x28, but as others have advised, an adapter can be made. My Remington 700 sps in 300RUM has a typical sporter barrel with a direct thread 1/2x28 brake. Don't know the brand as I purchased the rifle used, but it works fine.

Find a local smith and talk to him. It'll benefit you in the long run.

 

[Bang4theBuck]

The muzzle break I'm looking at is self timing so I could put it on myself. Do you think it's best to order the muzzle break first and take it in with the gun or have my gunsmith thread it first then find a muzzle break?

Welcome to the forum. Let me start by saying, you need to start by confirming with whomever you intend to hire to thread the barrel what thread they intend to cut on your barrel. You will need to provide that smith with the exact barrel diameter at the muzzle for the thread size to be established. If it were me, I would consider giving the smith barrel diameters at a couple of different lengths, if you are willing to give him license to also shorten the barrel a bit. Depending on barrel contour you can give a nice insurance policy by just shortening the barrel a couple of inches to get into a slightly larger barrel diameter.
If you are new to hunting and shooting, you should think about the use of a suppressor, even if it down the road a ways. If you are going to have the barrel threaded, cutting it shorter to have it threaded is literally only a 1 minute exercise added to the activity of threaded, and isn't even usually an extra charge. Now would be the time, if that were ever a consideration for you. A short light 300 WM is a pretty tough entry point into the shooting/hunting world, as far as learning good habits, and shooting enough to hone your skills. Knocking down recoil with a brake is a good step, knocking down recoil and noise is an even better one. Just my 2 cents.

Good luck and let us know where you land.

 

[BillLarson]

Magna Port... non obtrusive,liter,better looking...

 

[patrickjr]

As others have said and I agree. Find a local smith give him your ideas and goals then see what he says. He may not want to thread a 30cal down to 1/2x28 and he may propose a cut-off idea like @Bang4theBuck to get more meat to thread onto. Thinking ahead for suppressors is also a great idea because you will own one eventually if you're already looking at brakes and their benefits (especially terminators).

Those terminators brakes are awesome on recoil. Rough on the concussion and ears, you have to wear double ear protection and shooting without ear-protection while hunting is really bad-saying from experience.

Shooting and learning a lightweight 30wm is gonna be like taming the Sandlot hound for awhile. If you have the funds for another rifle, I'd suggest one of the same model but in a short action cartridge and maybe even a 223rem. Good practice rifle on the range, great for predators/small game and you can go through the motions with a rifle that is overall "less" of a handful.