Canhunter35
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Try a different scope if u haven't already
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Temp sensitivity out of accuracy node
- Thread starter LongWalker
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LongWalker
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Loaded on a Saturday and shot on a Wednesday.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
OK. That rules out bullet weld. Same lot of powder I assume? If the container was not sealed well or different lot things can change. Here, it's dry, so you can get more volume of powder in the case if its dry. I doubt that is your issue tho.
I'd simply back of .5 and try that and .2 under. 10-20 fps is about .5 grains on a stabile load. 50 plus on .5 is not a node. Like I had mentioned before when running ragged the edge things can fall apart pretty easy. I used to run everything over the top and it caused me nothing but headaches.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
There are a few things hunters can do to help with all this.
1. Clean bores completely after every use, getting back to a standard, and finish this with a dry pre-fouling of WS2 tungsten.
With this, you will no longer have to recover fouling.
2. Carry hunting ammo in your front pants pocket, and load single shot.
Do the same during load development. This sets ammo at a standard temp regardless of season.
As far as the barrel, definitely go cut rifled for hunting use.
3. Cold bore load develop.
Identify and work on your real world accuracy capabilities.
Never shoot beyond proven, but stalk to within.
1. Clean bores completely after every use, getting back to a standard, and finish this with a dry pre-fouling of WS2 tungsten.
With this, you will no longer have to recover fouling.
2. Carry hunting ammo in your front pants pocket, and load single shot.
Do the same during load development. This sets ammo at a standard temp regardless of season.
As far as the barrel, definitely go cut rifled for hunting use.
3. Cold bore load develop.
Identify and work on your real world accuracy capabilities.
Never shoot beyond proven, but stalk to within.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Tungsten Disulfide is a super slippery dry lubricant. It happens to act just like powder fouling if dry burnished into a clean dry bore.
I coat bullets with it as well to reduce copper fouling.
I was taught to put away guns cleaner than I pull them, and I always take bores back to white metal clean(which is dry).
So given a fouling issue with this, and with leaving petroleum residue in bores, I had to come up with something to dry pre-foul.
That was graphite back in the 70s. But this led to moly and eventually tungsten, which hasn't been better'd yet.
I put my guns away dry pre-fouled. With this, guns are ready for use -beginning with the first shot.
And there is no oil to migrate down into chamber/action/bedding. No oil to be burned out of a bore until settled with dry fouling.
It never made any sense to me that folks would have to waste time, efforts, ammo, and barrel life, re-fouling after every cleaning.
It also never made sense to me that so many would put their guns away with dirty bores. There is some really nasty stuff in that fouling, some of it from primers, and carbon can take a set to where it can be damaging to remove it. Carbon you should know, is the ultimate killer of bores. It's what ends accurate barrel life.
Tungsten cleans right out (unlike moly).
And Tungsten does not affect MV/tune.
I coat bullets with it as well to reduce copper fouling.
I was taught to put away guns cleaner than I pull them, and I always take bores back to white metal clean(which is dry).
So given a fouling issue with this, and with leaving petroleum residue in bores, I had to come up with something to dry pre-foul.
That was graphite back in the 70s. But this led to moly and eventually tungsten, which hasn't been better'd yet.
I put my guns away dry pre-fouled. With this, guns are ready for use -beginning with the first shot.
And there is no oil to migrate down into chamber/action/bedding. No oil to be burned out of a bore until settled with dry fouling.
It never made any sense to me that folks would have to waste time, efforts, ammo, and barrel life, re-fouling after every cleaning.
It also never made sense to me that so many would put their guns away with dirty bores. There is some really nasty stuff in that fouling, some of it from primers, and carbon can take a set to where it can be damaging to remove it. Carbon you should know, is the ultimate killer of bores. It's what ends accurate barrel life.
Tungsten cleans right out (unlike moly).
And Tungsten does not affect MV/tune.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Do you put it on a patch and run it through?
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Dedicated bore mop stored in a larger jag tube with BBs + WS2 powder. I spin it in the tube, with neading, to get tungsten well onto the mop. Run it through a fuel line bore guide (also dedicated). To keep the tungsten from getting everywhere, I push it out the muzzle into the jag tube, squeeze tube to hold mop, unscrew from cleaning rod to separate.
Before this pre-fouling, but after bore cleaning, I run the best alcohol I have on hand through and let it dry out.
Before this pre-fouling, but after bore cleaning, I run the best alcohol I have on hand through and let it dry out.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
I'm going to do this - to put my money where my mouth is I already bought the tungsten powder. Bore mop and BBs are easy, just want to be clear so when I borescope this job I can be sure of the particulars.
What's a fuel line bore guide? A literal piece of fuel line stuck into the chamber? I have some diesel rated marine line on hand but it's probably too large, so can I use a regular Tipton universal guide so long as it's dedicated?
Do you have any experience with tungsten plus a barrel with prior rust issues? I have a Bergara B-14 that is a cratered *** I was going to try first, want to set expectations up front about if it's going to rust through or not. I usually (per Bergara) use a stainless steel bore brush to clean this barrel, so it's pretty darn shined up when I oil it normally.
What's a fuel line bore guide? A literal piece of fuel line stuck into the chamber? I have some diesel rated marine line on hand but it's probably too large, so can I use a regular Tipton universal guide so long as it's dedicated?
Do you have any experience with tungsten plus a barrel with prior rust issues? I have a Bergara B-14 that is a cratered *** I was going to try first, want to set expectations up front about if it's going to rust through or not. I usually (per Bergara) use a stainless steel bore brush to clean this barrel, so it's pretty darn shined up when I oil it normally.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Yep
If I ever rusted a gun I would probably have a funeral for it, and part ways with it..
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Seeing as how it came out of the box that way, it would have been a waste of money to say goodbye immediately. Bergara was entirely unconcerned with the fact a literally brand new out of the box rifle had a rusted bore.
Mike, for those of us that are ignorant of this (ME!) any particular WS2 powder?
Thanks
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
I use a 'Tech Grade' 1.7 micron, which I purchased from Rose Mill around 30yrs ago. A little bit of it will last you a lifetime.
Lotta places it can be had. Quick search:
lowerfriction.com
Lotta places it can be had. Quick search:
Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) Powder | Dry Lubricant Powders
Tungsten Disulfide is the most lubricious dry lubricant and has high load bearing properties. We offer small quantities to bulk quantities.
Thank you sirI use a 'Tech Grade' 1.7 micron, which I purchased from Rose Mill around 30yrs ago. A little bit of it will last you a lifetime.
Lotta places it can be had. Quick search:
Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) Powder | Dry Lubricant Powders
Tungsten Disulfide is the most lubricious dry lubricant and has high load bearing properties. We offer small quantities to bulk quantities.
