I've been hunting with ffp for a few years now. It all depends on optic and reticle. Some are harder to see on lower power then others.....
Some folks have said this, one way or another. They're right IME.
Disagree with Matt about illumination. I'm 73 & my eyes aren't what they once were. First illuminated scope was a SFP 3-9x40 Burris on a .270 twenty years ago - plain duplex with a tiny LED at the center. Kept me from loosing the crosshair in early and late light & on cloudy days against dark woods.
No seeing as good as I once could, illumination makes all the difference. I hunt with FFP cuz it works regardless of zoom level. But lighting needs to be implemented right: Ten or twelve brightness levels with an 'off' between each. My default is the off between 3d & 4th or 4th & 5th brightness levels; depends on the scope. They're not all the same brightness at the same number of clidks.
Goal is to twist down a click from off for a dimmer reticle that leaves my night vision intact and up a click for use in brighter light. Even if a scope requires clicking thru three clicks from MY off - to brighter to off to 'more brighter' - my parking spot is between the lower brightness levels, based on clicking down ONE click to reach a useful level - for me - in dusk / dawn / overcast conditions.
At lower magnification in good or bad light illumination provides a big, fine duplex in the center of the FOV. Zoomed in, it's not so bright that it overpowers my target. YMMV, this works for me.
2032 batteries used by many scopes are lithium, last for years. I throw a strip of two or three new ones (4-6 year expiration) in my pack in August. Have changed one in the field once or twice in 20 years; made having them worth it.
I still have the steel tube El Paso Weaver K-4 from my first centerfire rifle. It's still bright and clear. Helped me take my first several deer. But I ain't willingly goin' back.