Highbrass
Well-Known Member
I recently used a product called PC7 for some bedding work . Purchased on Amazon. A lot like Devcon but much thicker. Has a really long cure time. Much less expensive too.
Suggestions for bedding an older Savage tupperware stock.
- Thread starter entoptics
- Start date
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entoptics
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2018
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Went ahead and did it...
Job was a bit challenging for me, as the other 3 stocks I've bedded had fewer pits, grooves, slots, and crevices that needed to stay free or be full of Devcon, but it came out fine by my standards. Shoulda waited longer for bubbles to rise out of the deep oval slots up front before dropping the action in. I always think the epoxy will start to harden faster than it does.
Epoxy before slapping the action in...
Front area, before clean up with Xacto knife...
Rear area, before cleanup with Xacto knife....
On Saturday, I reassembled, checked zero, and fouled the barrel, then shot a couple groups. They were both what I would have previously considered as "unusually good" for this rifle. Not busting out the Champaign, but if this is the new normal, the project would be a complete success.
FULL DISCLOSURE. I also changed out the trigger spring for a "varmint" from Gun Shack. It's giving me 2.5 lb pull at min setting (perfect, but higher than advertised). The OEM spring was giving me 4 lbs. That means my preliminary precision improvement may be from either/both of two "upgrades", though I do have pretty decent trigger control, and can shoot good groups with other rifles I've had with crisp 3.5-5.5 triggers, so I'm reasonably confident the trigger spring wasn't a huge factor in these improvements.
100 yds (zeroed at 250 yds before repairs, with slightly different load)
250 yds (zeroed at 250 yds before repairs with slightly different load)
Kinda crazy that I got so close to zero (250 yds) after popping scope, picatinney rail, stock, and trigger assembly apart, let alone bedding. Screwed it all back together without touching a thing, and was within an MOA at 250 yds from where it was set in October before deer season.
Anyway, hope this holds up...
Job was a bit challenging for me, as the other 3 stocks I've bedded had fewer pits, grooves, slots, and crevices that needed to stay free or be full of Devcon, but it came out fine by my standards. Shoulda waited longer for bubbles to rise out of the deep oval slots up front before dropping the action in. I always think the epoxy will start to harden faster than it does.
Epoxy before slapping the action in...
Front area, before clean up with Xacto knife...
Rear area, before cleanup with Xacto knife....
On Saturday, I reassembled, checked zero, and fouled the barrel, then shot a couple groups. They were both what I would have previously considered as "unusually good" for this rifle. Not busting out the Champaign, but if this is the new normal, the project would be a complete success.
FULL DISCLOSURE. I also changed out the trigger spring for a "varmint" from Gun Shack. It's giving me 2.5 lb pull at min setting (perfect, but higher than advertised). The OEM spring was giving me 4 lbs. That means my preliminary precision improvement may be from either/both of two "upgrades", though I do have pretty decent trigger control, and can shoot good groups with other rifles I've had with crisp 3.5-5.5 triggers, so I'm reasonably confident the trigger spring wasn't a huge factor in these improvements.
100 yds (zeroed at 250 yds before repairs, with slightly different load)
250 yds (zeroed at 250 yds before repairs with slightly different load)
Kinda crazy that I got so close to zero (250 yds) after popping scope, picatinney rail, stock, and trigger assembly apart, let alone bedding. Screwed it all back together without touching a thing, and was within an MOA at 250 yds from where it was set in October before deer season.
Anyway, hope this holds up...
Way better!
std7mag
Well-Known Member
I've bedded several of my Tupperware stocks from Savage.
I scuffed them up with a "rasp" bit in a cordless drill. Less speed & heat than a Dremel.
Drill several holes in different directions to give a more mechanical lock.
Clean with starting fluid (outside, NOT indoors!!)
No oils in starting fluid.
Spray with automotive adhesion promoter. Same stuff the body shops use before painting plastic bumper covers.
I use black shoe polish, you can use neutral, or a good release agent.
On the recoil lug i use 2 layers of packing tape (epoxy won't stick to the shiny side) on the sides & bottom.
I don't worry about the front of the recoil lug. I also don't go overboard with the amount of bedding material.
I scuffed them up with a "rasp" bit in a cordless drill. Less speed & heat than a Dremel.
Drill several holes in different directions to give a more mechanical lock.
Clean with starting fluid (outside, NOT indoors!!)
No oils in starting fluid.
Spray with automotive adhesion promoter. Same stuff the body shops use before painting plastic bumper covers.
I use black shoe polish, you can use neutral, or a good release agent.
On the recoil lug i use 2 layers of packing tape (epoxy won't stick to the shiny side) on the sides & bottom.
I don't worry about the front of the recoil lug. I also don't go overboard with the amount of bedding material.
std7mag
Well-Known Member
One more thing to note for all you Savage shooters out there.
Tune your action screw torque!!!!
It makes a HUGE difference!!
Tune your action screw torque!!!!
It makes a HUGE difference!!
