STM tumbling the brake ?

Varmint Hunter

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I've got a few of Kirby's PK brakes and they get filthy. I use to soak them in a bottle of Hoppes and then clean with Q-tips. It wasn't perfect but it did eliminate some build-up.
Now that I own a STM stainless steel pin tumbler I was wondering if there is any reason I can't just tumble my brakes squeeky clean. It doesn't hurt the much softer brass cases and my brakes are stainless with no finish.

Your thoughts.
 
I would do it... you might look on Fastenal or McMaster car web sight and see if you can get a short bolt to put in the end to protect the threads but other than that I don't think it would hurt it.
 
I've got a few of Kirby's PK brakes and they get filthy. I use to soak them in a bottle of Hoppes and then clean with Q-tips. It wasn't perfect but it did eliminate some build-up.
Now that I own a STM stainless steel pin tumbler I was wondering if there is any reason I can't just tumble my brakes squeeky clean. It doesn't hurt the much softer brass cases and my brakes are stainless with no finish.

Your thoughts.

If your MB is remains pretty clean regardless of make, you have NOT been shooting enough ... sorry I couldn't resist. :):D:rolleyes::cool:gun)
 
OK - I took a chance and just threw one of my PK brakes into the tumbler and let her rip for two hours. Opened it up for an inspection and low & behold the brake looked just like it did the day it was put on the rifle. Clean inside and out. Surface sheen may have changed just a touch.
I've got 3 brakes in there now and hope that it doesn't cause a problem by having brakes tumbling on brakes. I don't expect it to be a problem because the water and pins should minimize the impacts but who knows.

I can't be the first guy to actually do this. Has anyone else had a good or bad experience tumbling brakes?
 
UPDATE:

Now that the brake tumbling has been completed I cleaned the barrel threads, put some Sinclair bolt lube on the threads and attempted to put the brakes back on the rifles.

The PK brake for my 300 RUM threaded on with some difficulty and I had to use more (hand) force than made me comfortable. It did screw all the way down and snugged up to the barrel shoulder.

The PK brake for my 338 RUM would start but could not be turned further by hand. I put an adjustable wrench across the flats and tried to get it started again with modest torque. It was a no-go! The brake can not be put onto the barrel. Looks like the brake and/or barrel will need the threads touched up.

The factory brake for my 375 Ruger Guide gun spun on with my finger tips, just as all brakes should be able to.

Based on this single experiment it would appear that tumbling brakes in a pin tumbler is a BAD idea. :rolleyes:
 
If you know the thread size and pitch you should be able to get a tap online (amazon?) for less than $20 and clean up the threads quite easily. Just be sure to get ether a plug or a bottom tap if you do so you can clean the threads all the way to the bottom and start it slowly and carefully because as you know if a tap gets cross threaded it does lots of damage fast!
 
If you know the thread size and pitch you should be able to get a tap online (amazon?) for less than $20 and clean up the threads quite easily. Just be sure to get ether a plug or a bottom tap if you do so you can clean the threads all the way to the bottom and start it slowly and carefully because as you know if a tap gets cross threaded it does lots of damage fast!


That's not a bad idea. However, with a little luck I'll be able to stop in and see my smith to get this fixed right "the first time". I work with wood. :D
 
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