smallest practical lathe for chambering and threading

[DebosDave]

Just looking to get some opinions on the above title. What are the thoughts on the smallest practical lathe for jobs like threading and chambering?

Thanks!

 

[shortgrass]

If you're chambering with the barrel through the headstock, the spindle bore is the determining factor. If you're chambering between centers the length of the bed is.

 

[J E Custom]

I would recommend a 14x40 with a 1.5'' minimum spindle inside diameter as Shortgrass said.

Also I highly recommend a gear head type lathe for ease of switching spindle speeds and carriage speeds. and they are great for threading.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[shortgrass]

While attending gunsmithing school I did most of my threading,chambering and crowning of rifle barrels on a South Bend Heavy 10. 10" swing, 30" length between centers. I chambered both thru the head stock and between centers. Some consider the Heavy 10 to be the "Holy Grail" of lathes for chambering. It worked fine, but for an all round gunsmithing lathe a minimum of 12" x 36" or 13" x 40" would be minimum. Once you have a lathe and learn how to use it there'll be many other things you'll want to make on it. The 'skill' is in the man, not the machine.

 

[cohunt]

Glad this was brought up ---I've been toying with buying a used multi- machine (mill/drill/lathe) model HQ400/3--- it is belt driven but has gear sets for the power feed for threading ...it has a through head stock and a 14" bed between centers and 13" height from bed to mill chuck and the lathe chuck will hold up to 1.5" round stock internally--- wouldn't really work for profiling due to the "between centers" length though
I know all my terminology isnt all correct but does that sound like it would work for "recreational smithing"?

 

[Gord0]

Glad this was brought up ---I've been toying with buying a used multi- machine (mill/drill/lathe) model HQ400/3--- it is belt driven but has gear sets for the power feed for threading ...it has a through head stock and a 14" bed between centers and 13" height from bed to mill chuck and the lathe chuck will hold up to 1.5" round stock internally--- wouldn't really work for profiling due to the "between centers" length though
I know all my terminology isnt all correct but does that sound like it would work for "recreational smithing"?

Not likely. Mill/drill/lathes are never built to do anything well, just to do everything.

 

[DebosDave]

Thanks for the input so far! I am keeping my eye open for something used that is a reasonable distance from me. I looked at the small grizzly gunsmithing lathe, but am maybe hoping to find something used cheaper, well for less money

 

[shortgrass]

The machine, itself, is the 'low cost' part of this equation. I easily have 3-4 times as many $$$$$ into tooling, tool holders, measuring tools and all the other stuff needed to do the work. So, this is not exactly a 'low cost' thing to get into.

 

[cohunt]

The machine, itself, is the 'low cost' part of this equation. I easily have 3-4 times as many $$$$$ into tooling, tool holders, measuring tools and all the other stuff needed to do the work. So, this is not exactly a 'low cost' thing to get into.

That is why its often good to buy used--- lots of times they sell all the accessories and tooling with the machine for pennies on the dollar--- only problem is most machines don't have hour meters on them so you have to believe the seller on how much they claim to have used the machine.

 

[shortgrass]

That is why its often good to buy used--- lots of times they sell all the accessories and tooling with the machine for pennies on the dollar--- only problem is most machines don't have hour meters on them so you have to believe the seller on how much they claim to have used the machine.

ya', you might buy 'used',,,, if you know what you're looking at as far as wear and usability. And, it my come with lots of other stuff. Whether that 'other stuff' is useable for your intended purpose is another question. All the "other stuff", as well as the lathe itself could have been bought by someone who really didn't know what was needed. A good friend bought a used Grizzly Gunsmithing lathe and it came with several boxes of "stuff". No 4 jaw chuck. No QC tool post. No tool holders. No turning or threading tools. A dead center, but no live center. A coolant tank that looked like it was half full of motor oil. The seller want 'more' for the cheap Chinese indicator he had, but we left him with that. The seller had bought it so he could 'do his own chambering', but he never did. He didn't even have the basics needed for just a bit of 'general' type lathe work. the seller did include a .308 Win. finish reamer. Said he attempted to chamber one barrel ( a Krieger) several times without success. Showed us the 'trashed' barrel with no shank left (I helped my friend move the lathe and gave the machine a 'once over', to make sure it was useable). Another local gunshop decided they'd get into the custom barrel install business. Spent lots of money on their set-up, but in the end, that fizzled too. The guy at the gunshop was a pretty good repair 'smith and mechanically inclined. but he wasn't up to barrel work with no machining experience, only a days instruction from another shop and YouTube for help. I think his lathe and tooling is probably still for sale. He'll never get out of it what he spent on it. I would guess there are twice as many that fail and give up as there are that succeed, who buy a lathe to do their own barrel work. We just never hear of those who don't succeed on these forums. It's not 'rocket science', but it does take some 'know-how' and common sense (which isn't so common anymore). Doesn't mean you shouldn't try if you want to. But you definitely need better than a combo mill/drill/lathe. I've seen that tried, also, without success I 'll add!

 

[birdiemc]

I'm the farthest thing from a gunsmith or machinist, but I bought the grizzly G0752 a few years back with the intention of using it to learn how to use a lathe and be able to true actions and chamber barrels.
..the works. What I've found though is it's too short to turn between centers and the spindle bore is only 1.00" so I'm limited to barrels that are already profiled...no $100 green mountain blanks to get some practice on first. It's a far cry from the old lathe I played around with back when I worked in an Aviation Repair Station but all we used that for was turning down worn armatures on starter generators...but it makes chips and with patience you take off material, just dont expect deep cuts. If I could go back and do it all over I might still get a grizzly if there wasn't anything better readily available but it would be one with a longer bed, a bigger spindle bore, and a gear head, change gears just **** me off

 

[brutis.270]

I think I would look at it as what is the biggest lathe I can fit in my garage /shop. I have a 15x50 turnmaster and it is great but as your skills and experience grow you will feel very restricted by a smaller machine. And yes the cost of the machine is small compared to GOOD tooling . Don't want to discourage you at all it is very rewarding build your own guns and parts. Not the cost saving route for chamber a rifle or two

 

[59FLH]

I have used Hardinge HLV and Monarch 10EE with success.

 

[parshal]

I'm using a South Bend "light" 10 with a 48" bed. I never found a Heavy 10 in good enough shape and this Light 10 was in fantastic shape. I have to chamber between centers. It's basically the SB9. All the other lathes listed are bigger and would be a better choice. Since I'm making serviceable rifles on the SB10 I'm sure it could be done on the 9" and that's as small as I'd ever consider going which was the original question asked.