Critique my Threading and Chambering - Video

[25WSM]

I don't know why the site is cutting off my last sentences. It's done it 3 times tonight.
Shep

 

[Danny1788]

Have you guys ever taken the front of the boltface and put an angle on it? Aka, made a rem a cone?

I don't think you could. You would have to add material to the front of the bolt lugs making them flat with the bolt nose then machine them to 30 degrees.

 

[25WSM]

Then it would be a pia to cut the material from around the nose that is not in front of the lugs.
Shep

 

[Mram10us]

There's no such thing as a dumb question

 

[25WSM]

I don't know how I would try to get the metal off from around the nose that is sticking out. I don't have the tools to do it.
Shep

 

[bigngreen]

I hold my barrel with a 1/4 wide ring that has a radius to pivot and is slit, this was way better at holding than the wire, built a lot with the wire but you have to keep an eye on it.

When you dial don't just spin and watch the indicator and adjust so much, find the high spot in one set and dial it half way once and then again to nearly zero then the other set so in 4 adjustments your in the tenths till you adjust the outboard but it's way faster than spinning and trying to hit each high as it comes around and over shooting.

I don't use a form tool for the counter bore for some dumb reason, should, that's slick.

You can save one tool change by just chamfering the edge of the tenon with the threading tool but at the base of it so you don't touch the threading surface.

I run water soluble cutting fluid so I move a LOT of fluid, don't have to really stop but a couple times in a chamber to verify measurements and everything is cool. I've used the carriage to chamber, I have MT3 tool holder for the reamer holder and it worked very well, could just set the while job up in the DRO and use the carriage feed to chamber BUT dialing it in was to time consuming so just bang it out with the tailstock but I have a setup half built to take it back to the carriage.

Loose the long sleeves, it's bad juju, I wasn't too worried about it till I got grabbed just barely one day, hand slammed into the chuck and shirt tore so fast I didn't even know what happened, a lathe don't care, it'll just kill ya!!
Always interesting to see others set up, I run the same lathe!

 

[25WSM]

I use a ring with a slit also. I make them from aluminum and have a bunch of sizes for different muzzle diameters for crowns too. In the beginning I used little lead squares but they were a pain so I made the rings.
Shep

 

[Mram10us]

I hold my barrel with a 1/4 wide ring that has a radius to pivot and is slit, this was way better at holding than the wire, built a lot with the wire but you have to keep an eye on it.

When you dial don't just spin and watch the indicator and adjust so much, find the high spot in one set and dial it half way once and then again to nearly zero then the other set so in 4 adjustments your in the tenths till you adjust the outboard but it's way faster than spinning and trying to hit each high as it comes around and over shooting.

I don't use a form tool for the counter bore for some dumb reason, should, that's slick.

You can save one tool change by just chamfering the edge of the tenon with the threading tool but at the base of it so you don't touch the threading surface.

I run water soluble cutting fluid so I move a LOT of fluid, don't have to really stop but a couple times in a chamber to verify measurements and everything is cool. I've used the carriage to chamber, I have MT3 tool holder for the reamer holder and it worked very well, could just set the while job up in the DRO and use the carriage feed to chamber BUT dialing it in was to time consuming so just bang it out with the tailstock but I have a setup half built to take it back to the carriage.

Loose the long sleeves, it's bad juju, I wasn't too worried about it till I got grabbed just barely one day, hand slammed into the chuck and shirt tore so fast I didn't even know what happened, a lathe don't care, it'll just kill ya!!
Always interesting to see others set up, I run the same lathe!

I didn't remember having long sleeves. I'm normally more careful cause I made myself watch some graphics videos in the beginning.

I'll look into the band v the wire. I want pivot and solid. Sounds like it would do both

I normally check the high and low and divide by two in my head the whole time I'm dialing. Guess I didn't do it that day.

Never tried to chamfer the edge with my threading tool. I'll check it out. Didn't seem like the big blocky end would get close enough, but I'll try it.

Need to finish my oil feed setup so it doesn't use the above ways pan. Now is probably a good time.

 

[25WSM]

Mram I found a picture in my phone of a Remington shank with the 30 cut half way up. It also shows my aluminum ring I use to hold the barrel. I love beating ideas around with other Smith's.
Shep

 

[Blancoalex]

Here is my

shallower one have used for long time.

 

[25WSM]

That's how I started doing them 30 yrs ago. I found going half way makes feeding so much better. And there is still .075 around the bolt nose. Try one and you will see it feeds like a target action with a coned bolt.
Shep

 

[Mram10us]

Mram I found a picture in my phone of a Remington shank with the 30 cut half way up. It also shows my aluminum ring I use to hold the barrel. I love beating ideas around with other Smith's.
Shep

I do too Always learning. I like the big chamfer

 

[25WSM]

What's nice is you tool post is already at that angle.
Shep

 

[25WSM]

Or should I say the compound angle is already at 30 or 29.5 degrees.