cornchuck
Well-Known Member
Do I need to resize before or after annealing?
Jason
Jason
Short annealing question?
- Thread starter cornchuck
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Hairtrigger
Well-Known Member
Do you anneal before resizing?????
Do you size before annealing?????
I would assume by your statement and the article that your anneal before you resize. I know what I do.
Im just trying to help answer this gentleman's question. Not trying to be rude - just helpful - Thanks
Bullet bumper
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2009
- Messages
- 1,045
There is no point in annealing after resizing as the neck tension will change after annealing . You will have to clean the case up after annealing so anneal , clean up the case , resize and continue .
The other way you would need to clean the case , resize it , anneal it and clean it again to continue reloading and the neck tension may not be right anyway .
The other way you would need to clean the case , resize it , anneal it and clean it again to continue reloading and the neck tension may not be right anyway .
Before annealing, all I do is pop out the old primer and clean the necks with 0000 steel wool.
Hairtrigger
Well-Known Member
cornchuck
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the information guys. Just wanted to make sure I was doing in the right order.
Jason
Jason
Goofycat
Well-Known Member
So, let me get this straight: I have 500 shot-once, un-annealed cases. I want to reload the cases, but want to anneal. Do I (1) anneal first, then (2) clean, (3) resize (removing the primer at the same time), then (4) clean primer pockets, (5) trim, (6) primer, (7) powder, and (8) place bullets?
Also, Hairtrigger's article mentioned: "Unlike steel, which will be made harder when it is cooled rapidly, brass is virtually unaffected when it is rapidly cooled. Annealing brass and suddenly quenching it in water will have no measurable effect on the brass." If so, then what's the point of quenching the cases in water? The only answer I can think of is that once the necks have been softened, dropping the cases into water would ensure that the case necks aren't damaged. But....why not drop them in something soft, like a bucket with some rags in it.
Keep in mind, I no NOTHING about annealing, other than bits and pieces that I have read, plus a couple of YouTube clips. I'm just trying to put things together by asking questions.
Also, Hairtrigger's article mentioned: "Unlike steel, which will be made harder when it is cooled rapidly, brass is virtually unaffected when it is rapidly cooled. Annealing brass and suddenly quenching it in water will have no measurable effect on the brass." If so, then what's the point of quenching the cases in water? The only answer I can think of is that once the necks have been softened, dropping the cases into water would ensure that the case necks aren't damaged. But....why not drop them in something soft, like a bucket with some rags in it.
Keep in mind, I no NOTHING about annealing, other than bits and pieces that I have read, plus a couple of YouTube clips. I'm just trying to put things together by asking questions.
Last edited:
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
You shouldn't be annealing once fired brass IMO, and don't forget to chamfer mouths after trimming.
You got it right about the article & quenching. Needed only to stop heat migration,, if that's a problem.
You got it right about the article & quenching. Needed only to stop heat migration,, if that's a problem.
Goofycat
Well-Known Member
Mike, you might have a point. Seems to me that if a new case is annealed, the annealed portion of the case would be better able to be fire-formed in the chamber by virtue of the brass having been softened.
But...then again....I don't see why any harm would be done if once-shot cases were annealed. I don't recall reading anything that would make me not want to anneal once-shot cases.
But...then again....I don't see why any harm would be done if once-shot cases were annealed. I don't recall reading anything that would make me not want to anneal once-shot cases.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Ok I think I'm following now. You hold 500 once-shot -in another chamber cases.
If so, then yeah annealing could benefit for re-forming.
But I don't see annealing every time as a good plan though. You'd have to be very precise in it, and your load for some reason would have to like really weak neck tension. And you'd have to oversize, every time, just to get that weak tension.
Anything solving a problem, can create a problem, when taken to excess.
If so, then yeah annealing could benefit for re-forming.
But I don't see annealing every time as a good plan though. You'd have to be very precise in it, and your load for some reason would have to like really weak neck tension. And you'd have to oversize, every time, just to get that weak tension.
Anything solving a problem, can create a problem, when taken to excess.
Goofycat
Well-Known Member
I'm talking about annealing cases for cartridges being shot only in one rifle. Sizing work hardens the cases; annealing reverses the effects of case-hardening. Annealing doesn't have to be done for each reloading. Hornady mentions maybe every 7-8 firings.
I ran across some interesting information by Varmint Al:
Varmint Al's Handloading/Reloading Page
Also, here is a neat way to easily anneal....all you need is a torch, power drill and a long-shank socket that allows your case to easily slip in and out of the socket. Sinclair sells a driver and caseholder setup that will allow you to do the same thing, but if you already have a socket, why spend the extra money.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgK2sdDo_Ck&feature=related]Annealing/It's not all that complicated - YouTube[/ame]
I ran across some interesting information by Varmint Al:
Varmint Al's Handloading/Reloading Page
Also, here is a neat way to easily anneal....all you need is a torch, power drill and a long-shank socket that allows your case to easily slip in and out of the socket. Sinclair sells a driver and caseholder setup that will allow you to do the same thing, but if you already have a socket, why spend the extra money.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgK2sdDo_Ck&feature=related]Annealing/It's not all that complicated - YouTube[/ame]
rscott5028
Well-Known Member
Decent brass should have been manufactured with the right neck softness and case head hardness to be fired/sized several times with reasonable pressures before work hardening dictates annealing to soften the necks.
If you need to anneal after the first firing, then something doesn't seem quite right to me.
When annealing, you want to avoid softening the lower body/case head lest you ruin the brass and create a dangerous situation. Hence, quenching in water to kill heat migration to the case head/web as Mikecr stated.
What is it about your experience or technique that gives you confidence that you can improve on the softness/hardness properties of factory brass that's only been fired/sized one time?
-- richard
If you need to anneal after the first firing, then something doesn't seem quite right to me.
When annealing, you want to avoid softening the lower body/case head lest you ruin the brass and create a dangerous situation. Hence, quenching in water to kill heat migration to the case head/web as Mikecr stated.
What is it about your experience or technique that gives you confidence that you can improve on the softness/hardness properties of factory brass that's only been fired/sized one time?
-- richard
Goofycat
Well-Known Member
Richard, it was my understanding from several articles I have read that annealing is a method to release tension from the neck area of the brass. I don't know whether this tension is inherent in new brass or brass that has been fire-formed. I get from what I have read that once the brass is annealed, it will last longer due to its not being subject to work-harding, which takes place after the brass has been reloaded several times. In other words, annealing is kind of a preventive measure.
Right now, I am basing anything I say based not on my experience, because I don't have any experience with annealing. I have never annealed anything, and haven't reloaded any of my brass multiple times since I don't shoot all that often. All I know is that I plan to use my brass over and over in the future and feel that annealing will help....especially with the .20 VarTarg brass I have put together by necking down .221 fireball brass.
So....are you saying that annealing isn't required unless brass has been fired several times? From what I have found, cases are to be annealed only once.
Right now, I am basing anything I say based not on my experience, because I don't have any experience with annealing. I have never annealed anything, and haven't reloaded any of my brass multiple times since I don't shoot all that often. All I know is that I plan to use my brass over and over in the future and feel that annealing will help....especially with the .20 VarTarg brass I have put together by necking down .221 fireball brass.
So....are you saying that annealing isn't required unless brass has been fired several times? From what I have found, cases are to be annealed only once.
