It would be better on the lower ring for ring mounted…for the XLR chassis, can you see it while in shooting position? Someone else had one mounted in their stock…maybe 5 years ago. He had a patent on it, and there were lawsuits involved concerning the infringement where they even went after the customers. I don't know what ever happened about the lawsuits. the way the law used to be, was you could build an exact replica of the patented device and use it while the patent was pending, but the day the patent was granted, you could no longer use the device, and if caught, you were liable for treble damages. There are ways to get around a patent, however. Matt Means of XLR is a pretty sharp guy, so if you were going to get an XLR chassis, I'm sure he could answer your questions. The last thing I would want to happen is for one of you to have your door kicked down in the middle of the night by the patent police…and get hauled off to prison.Masterpiece Arms
https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-rings/
XLR chassis builders makes the Element 4.0 Aluminum chassis with a built in level:
View attachment 439265
I have one of these and I am very unimpressed. The part where you find adjust it does not stay put and basically it's useless to me.I use the Flatline Ops Sniper X on my 300 NMI with an NX8. It's a tube mounted level but it installs very easily, is stowable and has independent level adjustments for stowed and extended positions. The bubble is large and the fluid is very bright and visible.
SNIPER-X™ ACCU/LEVEL™ Articulating, Fine-adjustable
SNIPER-X™ SERIES, THE NEXT LEVEL The all new Sniper-X™ Series ACCU/LEVEL™ is the latest of refreshed products in our level series, based on our original Sniper scope level. We have made improvements on this legendary, patented, longest running level. The new Sniper-X is now 100% manufactured...flatlineops.com
View attachment 439269View attachment 439270
I use an ARISAKA tool. An angled piece rests on your rail, and a triangular piece cut to the same angle as a channel in the angled piece slides along between the flat on the bottom of your scope makes contact, and then it is parallel to your rail. It comes with two angled pieces to cover a wide range of heights. I'm having trouble attaching pictures, but I think there are u tube videos on this. I then draw a plumb line on a target , maybe 5' high to verify. Have better luck with this than a level. Careful when tightening your ring screws so that you don't bend your scope…if it's too loose with the wedge too tightly placed, it will happen.A level on a scope, I have heard about them, I haven't used one. I am shooting a 338LM, not a 375 or larger.
I sight in, have the vertical fibre passing up and down on aim point. It moves as my heart beats, up and down a couple to six inches above and below my aim point.
Set, pause, at high or low on heartbeat, and squeeze past the breaking point.
Always both eyes open.
I use a level ± 0.0001/deviation to level my rifles, then to level the scope using the same level. It takes me a few hours of the day as when I tighten the ring's clamp, the scope rotates a small amount. Loktite blue to hold in place.
I taught my son to do the same. His diagonal misses, greater as the distance being at shot increased went away.
The level I obtained when I used to set large precision machines. It was low cost, $75.00 as I recall, it is too precise, the "real" price would have discouraged me.
These wedges are quick and easy to use. Sometimes you have to have multiple wedges due to scope height. You are relying on the fact that the scope rail is level to level the scope. The true test is the plumb line and then run a tall target test to verify that the scope is working properly.I use an Ariska tool. An angled piece rests on your rail, and a triangular piece cut to the same angle as a channel in the angled piece slides along between the flat on the bottom of your scope makes contact, and then it is parallel to your rail. It comes with two angled pieces to cover a wide range of heights. I'm having trouble attaching pictures, but I think there are u tube videos on this. I then draw a plumb line on a target , maybe 5' high to verify. Have better luck with this than a level. Careful when tightening your ring screws so that you don't bend your scope…if it's too loose with the wedge too tightly placed, it will happen.
The Easy Button solution there is to use feeler gauges to set the gap evenly. Time consuming perhaps, but easy enough to do.The only problem I see with that style of ring/level is if the ring cap is not torqued down evenly (gap the same on both sides) then the level could be 2 or 3 (or more) degrees from level.
The level on the bottom ring would be better.
Yes, I follow this method -Spuhr makes great mounts. Just understand that assuming when you bolt this on, it will mean that the gun is level, hopefully. It does not mean that the scope is level. You will still have to level the scope using a plumb line.
Wheeler Engineering Level Level Level Scope Mounting Leveling Tool[/H1]
Interesting. Mine hasn't moved at all. Even if it did I would simply add some blue loctite.I have one of these and I am very unimpressed. The part where you find adjust it does not stay put and basically it's useless to me.