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School me on how to evaluate the quality of rifle scope glass

I have seven scopes lined up and have been looking through them all morning trying to learn and see the difference in high'ish quality glass vs low quality glass and guess I have to admit I'm not sure what all to really look for. I read comments on forums about how this glass is better than that glass and then another person comes along and says the complete opposite. I understand everyones eyes are different so that brings me to this point to where I would like to see for myself.

This line up is not apples to apples. Its a mix of what I have. The lineup consists of a cheap Bushnell 3-9x40, Leupold VX-3 2-10x40, Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50 FFP, Bushnell LRHSi 4.5-18x44 FFP, Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 FFP, Vortex Razor LHT 3-15x42 SFP and last is a Vortex Razor AMG 6-24x50 FFP.

If a person was to google the Viper PST vs the Razor AMG the results would most likely be that the AMG is night and day difference and the PST glass is useless etc, but I honestly cant see it. I suppose it's because I don't know what to look for or I'm not looking at the correct type of stuff and the proper distances. What I can see looking at a license plate at about 100yds is the cheap Bushnell is somewhat blurry. I cant make out the cars model name and the the picture is dull looking, but thats also a $40 scope. The Midas TAC has a bad fish eye effect when zoomed to 24x. Between the others, LHRSi, LHT, PST AMG, I don't see much difference when I feel like I should be able to. Some "eye opening" tips, advice, comments would help. Thanks
IMHO
A trip to several gun shops is in order.
Listed below is my reasoning.
Since we are all individuals we all see objects differently , more so as we advance with age.
Different shades of colors.
Different levels of light intensity.
Different levels of clarity.
Different levels of our vision itself. (near sighted , far sighted , stigmatism, etc. )
Now I submit the following. ( admittedly much of this can be researched before hand )
First determine how much you are willing to spend.
Determine what name brand Scopes that you are considering as well as origin of manufacture
How much magnification, stadia wire , Dual X , German Post , BDC , Mil Dot , Modified Mil Dot , or Xmas tree , Style of reticle , Scope Weight , Scope Length , Objective Lens Diameter ( the larger the objective lens is the more light gathering capability's your scope will have ), Main tube diameter , FFP , SFP , Side Focus, Tactical or Conventual adjustment knobs , overall construction , how much and what kind of coating is on the lenses, what kind of glass elements( EDC ,Fluoride , Anti Scratch etc.) and how easily can you adjust the eyepiece itself to your eyesight while keeping the scope reticle crisp and clear.
Note:
Your scopes optical grade glass , it's country of origin , where it was ground , and coatings, as well as light transmission , color rendition, and the purity of the optical glass itself all have bearing on a rifle scopes performance. With a little digging this information can be obtained on the web. I advise that you research thoroughly as optical grade glass and it's multi coatings can either make or break a scope. A call to the company's technical department can be very beneficial as company techs are a virtual wealth of information. ( I have gotten technical information on Leupold, and Nikon scopes in this manner )
Determine if the scope is able to work in low light situations ( Resolving Power)
Determine if a lens shade is provided , or purchased separately .
Determine Brand as well as diameter of Scope Rings (country of origin)
Determine whether or not you want or need a one piece 20 MOA (again country of origin)

This information by way of research should have yielded to you a good starting point in your quest of purchasing a new riflescope.!
With all this being said the purchase of a scope is strictly an individual matter.
It should be determined by what your brain and vision is reveling to you, and you alone.

Take the opinions of others and weigh them against what your eyes are mind telling you.
Foremost the image that you view while placing the scope to your eye should speak volumes.
To me this is the most important factor.
Compare several scopes and draw your own conclusions!
Other Things to Consider!
Is the image that you are seeing the correct shade of color , or does it have a slight bluish , magenta .or yellowish Cass ?
If possible ask to take the scope outside as store lighting may influence this color shift.
Are the scope adjustment knobs and side focus to your liking ?
Is the zoom magnification ratio as much as you expected ?
Will the scopes construction as well as the over all finish fit your needs ?

The purchase of a scope is major investment with some manufacturer's scopes costings as much as 2 - 3 times, or more what you purchased your rifle for.
Luckily you will most likely pay $ 400.00 - $600.00 more or less as your needs and research indicate !

In that light ( no pun intended) I suggest that before you decide on one brand , determine for yourself what brands of scopes and features that they offer and examine them yourself!

The long and the short of what I' m saying here is read the reviews, listen to others , but ultimately you yourself and your eyesight will be the decisive factor regarding the purchase of a new rifle scope.

Some readers may find this text to be redundant , however I feel that others may find it pertinent.
Addendum:
There really are a lot of great responses as well as information from members regarding the question that you posed about determining rifle scope quality.

Since you already have in your possession several scopes which you wanted to test for resolution and edge to edge sharpness I suggest that you a purchase resolution chart from a photography supply house like B&H Photography and do not download one one line as the end result will only be as good as your printers resolution. (maybe 600DPI Dot Matrix) ( although a Laser printer will give better resolution ) and that still may not yield acceptable results, however you just might want to try it for the heck of it! )
If you live in a rural area you can try focusing your scopes on a bright orange target at 100 yards say at dusk and in this manner you will be able to determine how much light gathering ability each scope has The results may surprise you!
I will state that what one man hales , another man hates.
Remember:
"It's not about the price you pay for quality ,
but rather the quality you receive for the price !"
p.j.t.

Caveat emptor

My 2 Cents Worth !
 
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I have not heard much about eye fatigue with scopes, mostly binos as you spend more time behind them, but I do get a little blurry with some scopes if I spend a lot of time reading mirage and wind but I never thought of it being the scope, just me getting tired.
 
I have seven scopes lined up and have been looking through them all morning trying to learn and see the difference in high'ish quality glass vs low quality glass and guess I have to admit I'm not sure what all to really look for. I read comments on forums about how this glass is better than that glass and then another person comes along and says the complete opposite. I understand everyones eyes are different so that brings me to this point to where I would like to see for myself.

This line up is not apples to apples. Its a mix of what I have. The lineup consists of a cheap Bushnell 3-9x40, Leupold VX-3 2-10x40, Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50 FFP, Bushnell LRHSi 4.5-18x44 FFP, Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 FFP, Vortex Razor LHT 3-15x42 SFP and last is a Vortex Razor AMG 6-24x50 FFP.

If a person was to google the Viper PST vs the Razor AMG the results would most likely be that the AMG is night and day difference and the PST glass is useless etc, but I honestly cant see it. I suppose it's because I don't know what to look for or I'm not looking at the correct type of stuff and the proper distances. What I can see looking at a license plate at about 100yds is the cheap Bushnell is somewhat blurry. I cant make out the cars model name and the the picture is dull looking, but thats also a $40 scope. The Midas TAC has a bad fish eye effect when zoomed to 24x. Between the others, LHRSi, LHT, PST AMG, I don't see much difference when I feel like I should be able to. Some "eye opening" tips, advice, comments would help. Thanks
I look for elevation and wind adjustment first. If it doesn't have at least 80 MOAs or more then I'm not even gonna waste my time on how clear the glass is. Swarovski scope was pretty notorious for this when I was in the market. Great glass but only 40 to 50 moas of adjustments. On top of there was no mil dots or hash marks for hold off. So what good does it do to have great glass without the other 2 key factors in a long range scope. Then there are people that like to say I know my scope is good cause I spent $5,000 on it and I don't shoot past 300 yards cause it's not ethical. If I never shot past 300 yards the most I'd spend on a scope would be $100. I have a $80 true glow scope on my pellet gun and it can see just fine in low light at 300 yards. I would not worry about price so much. Just look through the glass regardless of name brand and if it's clear for you at distance in low lite then get it. If I bought what everybody else has cause they say it's the best because the name then I guarantee I would have less than the 50 plus's guns I have in my safe.
 
Save yourself a lot of effort. Spend at least 2 grand and make sure the name on the scope is Schmidt/Kahles/Swaro/Zeiss.

Now you can stop posting and get a job to pay for it.
I and a friend disagree with you including Swarovski scopes. After he brought his z6 5-30X over and compared it to other cheaper brands he sold it. I had four z5 5-25X. They're gone too.
 
There are almost an infinite number of combinations of factors that contribute to a given sight picture being acceptable or unacceptable. Light levels, your direction of aim relative to position of the sun, color and/or finish of the surface you're perceiving, the list goes on and on. It can be easy to convince yourself that an optic is or isn't meeting a standard. It's also a question in one's mind that isn't immune from the existence of relativity. Compared to not having a scope, the $40 Bushnell might be the best thing ever!, and it, compared to the PST is junk... Recently, two factors that have contributed to my purchases have been:
1: Reticle appearance in low light. I find that the Vortex HS-T and PST EBR-1 reticle appears to have a very flat matt black finish that is very difficult for me to see against a flat dark background in a hunting condition. Conversely, I find a Leupold Vx-3 reticle to appear shiny and gold/bronze in the same condition. The nightforce SHV has little to none of the bronze color, but has a shiny black appearance and the optional illuminated feature... none are wrong...
2: lens coating. I find that when aiming anywhere in the general direction of the setting or rising sun, my HS-T fills with blurry bright clutter, even when using a sun shade. Same with the PST. The Leupold vx-3s are significantly better. The shv is better still and color is sharper.
 
I know I am out of my league in many respects on this topic but I am going to check in on it anyway. I do feel that at least 1/3 replies really don't focus on the question. Although brands and details were given, in many ways I think the question applies even if those factors were unknown. Also I mostly shoot paper and steel, I know hunters needs change greatly. Any hunting I do my scope are usually 1-5x range since close up, not so glass critical.

A couple of anecdotes. I use a credit card from a big sporting goods company. I had over $1000 of "free money". I was saving for some super whiz bang binoculars (I know this thread is about scopes but glass comparisons hopefully relevant. I thought for sure a pair at $1500-2000 would be amazing compared to my $2-400 glasses. But I just didn't see it. Did not do the kind of testing I should but I just didn't think that big a price difference should require it.

Second anecdote. Been duck hunting with small group of guys in UP of MI for going on 30 years. I bring up my Steiner 8-30mm military binos, nothing great but good stuff. At the cottage they have an 5 year old pair of Tasco 10x50mm that probably cost <$100 new. And the Tasco always look better. I know power and objective are bigger but that is my point.

Last anecdote. I am a huge fan of Super Sniper scope family. Years ago I intentionally bought their standard 10x and their HD 10x to compare. I printed off the bar diagrams for optics testing. I even took they out in the evening and checked as it got dark. I did not see anything with the HD I could not see with the standard. I still own a number of the standard scopes, I think very clear glass.

Comment 1, I never understood the obsession with clarity at the edges. What I am aiming at is usually nowhere near the edges so I am not sure why I care.

Comment 2, I do not see in my opinion nearly enough written about eye box. Maybe because it is even harder to quantify than glass quality. But in my opinion this is something that separates scope I like vs ones I don't.

That's it for me, just observations from a less experienced member. I am not saying I am correct, just what I found.

JB
 
I know I am out of my league in many respects on this topic but I am going to check in on it anyway. I do feel that at least 1/3 replies really don't focus on the question. Although brands and details were given, in many ways I think the question applies even if those factors were unknown. Also I mostly shoot paper and steel, I know hunters needs change greatly. Any hunting I do my scope are usually 1-5x range since close up, not so glass critical.

A couple of anecdotes. I use a credit card from a big sporting goods company. I had over $1000 of "free money". I was saving for some super whiz bang binoculars (I know this thread is about scopes but glass comparisons hopefully relevant. I thought for sure a pair at $1500-2000 would be amazing compared to my $2-400 glasses. But I just didn't see it. Did not do the kind of testing I should but I just didn't think that big a price difference should require it.

Second anecdote. Been duck hunting with small group of guys in UP of MI for going on 30 years. I bring up my Steiner 8-30mm military binos, nothing great but good stuff. At the cottage they have an 5 year old pair of Tasco 10x50mm that probably cost <$100 new. And the Tasco always look better. I know power and objective are bigger but that is my point.

Last anecdote. I am a huge fan of Super Sniper scope family. Years ago I intentionally bought their standard 10x and their HD 10x to compare. I printed off the bar diagrams for optics testing. I even took they out in the evening and checked as it got dark. I did not see anything with the HD I could not see with the standard. I still own a number of the standard scopes, I think very clear glass.

Comment 1, I never understood the obsession with clarity at the edges. What I am aiming at is usually nowhere near the edges so I am not sure why I care.

Comment 2, I do not see in my opinion nearly enough written about eye box. Maybe because it is even harder to quantify than glass quality. But in my opinion this is something that separates scope I like vs ones I don't.

That's it for me, just observations from a less experienced member. I am not saying I am correct, just what I found.

JB

I did start this about scopes but as you stated I am interested in glass. So wether it be scopes, binoculars, spotting scope it doesn't matter to me. They all have glass. I am sure this would even apply to photography. I am just trying to understand what makes good glass good.

Thanks again for all the replies.
 
I don't think your nuts, but it doesn't matter if its $10,000 scope or a $50 scope, I just want to know how you evaluate the glass in your scope. What do you look at through your scope? What do you look for? What time of day, conditions, distance etc...

If how much you spent is the only thing you look at, then that is all I need to know.
@jd126 Yes its hard to work out & people do believe its about money & usually when doing research its more about reputation & feedback from users.

If you really want to get into the grit of it you need to find out where/who made the glass & what type of coatings it has on it & how many lenses are coated, essentially the build quality.

Some scope makers will make their own glass, some will use imported glass from places like Japan, China.
They all use different glass quality in there range, that's were you pay the $$$ for the high end gear.

How do you find this info out?

Well its very hard, most scope manufacturers just like to talk about features, transmission rates, reticles ect & not where or how there glass or coatings are made!!

Here is some reading for you-





Imo, looking through scopes in the gun shop or shot expo does nothing, 99% of the time they will look very similar whether $250 or $5000. its only when you can test these in the conditions where the expense in the lenses/coating are made for that you will se a difference, & that is the hard thing to do!

Shot shows should have a room set up with a low light hunting situation to really show the differences between scopes through the $$$$ range.
Because as I said in my previous post, looking through a $250 scope & a $5000 scope in the middle of the day will tell you nothing about either scope!
 
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Suggestion please for a scope to meet the "rule of thumb" for my $12,000 Barrett M107A1. Thanks in advance.

 
Cost of: pickup $50-80,000, Mountain horse $3000, Horse trailer $4000, Quality tent $1000, Saddle & tack $2000, ATV $15000, ATV trailer $1500, Top grade binocs $1000, Range finder $700, Outfitted hunt $5-50000 ----- need I go on ?

People think I'm nuts to buy a $5000 Swaro ---- I'm laffin !
And, still didn't have a rifle to shoot..... And, ya cheaped out on the bino and RF.........call a do over. If ya got a wifey, the total was probably about twice your total by the time she was happy. Yeah, the Swaro was non issue. Just sayin' from personal insight. :) :) :)
 
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