Savage trigger creep has gotta go!

[backwoods83]

I know that, that screw goes up to the bottom of the safety bar as well, and on a SSS or Rifle Basix is used in conjuntion with a spring to adjust pull weight, and they have a fourth screw behind the safety screw that bumps the trigger housing to prevent overtravel. The screw that you speak of can be turned in far enough to prevent overtravel but typically causes bindind issues on issues with the safety, that's why for the most part savage left them backed way out.

 

[KRP]

Maybe you can tell me something I don't know, but I can't see a use for the center screw unless you remove the side bar spring and cut a piece of whatever tension spring you want from packs of wolff universal springs and use that for the pull weight adjustment, that's what I do. There is no screw all the way in the back to touch the trigger housing for overtravel. So please explain what you mean, hell I'm here to learn to.

I'm not sure what the spring has to do with overtravel? The overtravel screw is the one in front of the safety screw, it engages the safety bar not the housing. It works the same as the safety screw to limit the movement of the trigger, in fact if turned in to far it prevents the trigger from releasing the sear even with the safety in the fire position.

 

[KRP]

I know that, that screw goes up to the bottom of the safety bar as well, and on a SSS or Rifle Basix is used in conjuntion with a spring to adjust pull weight, and they have a fourth screw behind the safety screw that bumps the trigger housing to prevent overtravel. The screw that you speak of can be turned in far enough to prevent overtravel but typically causes bindind issues on issues with the safety, that's why for the most part savage left them backed way out.

I don't have a Rifle Basix but the safety and overtravel screws on a SSS trigger function the same as the factory trigger. The pull weight screw on a SSS trigger is below those and adjusts parallel to the action.

 

[backwoods83]

KRP, please read above post. I didn't think I was losing my mind yet. I can use that screw and put a cut to length wolff spring and get a 3 screw below a pound and have it break like glass with minimal overtravel because that spring is compressed at that point.

 

[johnnybar]

You set the overtravel with the gun NOT cocked by turning the recessed screw in until it touches the safety, then back it off a little to allow for sear clearance without excessive overtravel or safety drag.

 

[backwoods83]

I don't use the SSS triggers, I glanced at them on there site, and they looked similar but I guess they are not. But I don't buy from them nor do I plan to, but that's good to know.

 

[KRP]

KRP, please read above post. I didn't think I was losing my mind yet. I can use that screw and put a cut to length wolff spring and get a 3 screw below a pound and have it break like glass with minimal overtravel because that spring is compressed at that point.

I read it and I still don't get it. There is no screw behind the safety screw on any of the SSS or factory triggers that I have.

Factory trigger and you are replacing the return spring with another correct? How does the overtravel screw affect that?

I'm here to learn also and if you have a trick I don't know I'd love to hear it.

 

[johnnybar]

KRP, please read above post. I didn't think I was losing my mind yet. I can use that screw and put a cut to length wolff spring and get a 3 screw below a pound and have it break like glass with minimal overtravel because that spring is compressed at that point.

So your modified trigger weight spring, which is the only component to ensure sear engagement upon cocking, gets rubbed back and forth every time the safety is used? If it ever wears, you can slam fire or bump fire easily. You may have good success with that setup but it is asking for trouble in a long range coyote rifle like mine that gets gritty and cycled thousands of times a season. God bless and keep you safe.

 

[backwoods83]

Ok the factory 3 screw has no screw behind the safety screw, the rifle basix does, you have a screw on the very back of it for overtravel, and it comes with a spring that's cut to length that goes where the over travel screw is on a 3 screw for your pull weight, which can also be lowered by using wolff lighter tension spring cut to length. If the piece of spring is cut correctly this method works with the 3 screw as well, because when you get the sear screw set and the safety screw set and test it, you can get the length of the spring just right, so once its pulled its compressed prevent any substantial over travel, then just check as normal for slam fires and tweak accordingly.

 

[backwoods83]

Johnny, as I mentioned it works the same way a rifle basix does and you keep adjusting it until you have no slamfires and its timed right, then use some epoxy or superglue and lock the screws down and keep your rifle oiled and clean, you won't have issues. Knock on wood, but I haven't had a single slam fire to this day with a savage, if you ask me about a remington, that's a whole nother story!

 

[KRP]

Ok the factory 3 screw has no screw behind the safety screw, the rifle basix does, you have a screw on the very back of it for overtravel, and it comes with a spring that's cut to length that goes where the over travel screw is on a 3 screw for your pull weight, which can also be lowered by using wolff lighter tension spring cut to length. If the piece of spring is cut correctly this method works with the 3 screw as well, because when you get the sear screw set and the safety screw set and test it, you can get the length of the spring just right, so once its pulled its compressed prevent any substantial over travel, then just check as normal for slam fires and tweak accordingly.

I get it now, using the overtravel screw and a coil spring for the trigger return.

 

[johnnybar]

Ok the factory 3 screw has no screw behind the safety screw, the rifle basix does, you have a screw on the very back of it for overtravel, and it comes with a spring that's cut to length that goes where the over travel screw is on a 3 screw for your pull weight, which can also be lowered by using wolff lighter tension spring cut to length. If the piece of spring is cut correctly this method works with the 3 screw as well, because when you get the sear screw set and the safety screw set and test it, you can get the length of the spring just right, so once its pulled its compressed prevent any substantial over travel, then just check as normal for slam fires and tweak accordingly.

But since it is a spring and not a set screw only, it does rub on the safety slide...correct?

 

[backwoods83]

KRP you are correct a coil spring on top of the overtravel screw for pull weight and trigger return, I'm not sure who mentioned it, but the sear has its own return spring. I have had one as far down as 11oz with no issue, but most will only go 20-25oz without slam fires. Johnny the spring does indeed rub against the safety, but do you have any idea how many thousands of rounds it takes to notice any wear, I put about 800 on my 308 before I sold the action and went to a short action accutring, and the safety didn't even have any rub marks on it and you aren't going to hurt a tool steel coil spring.

 

[Trickymissfit]

Sear screw backed off and created too much engagement. Never had thread lock juice fail...maybe I didn't get the oil off well enough years ago.

I use Loctite thread locker #222 on small screws like that. They sell a primer that can be had in a spray or else with a brush. If you use it the working time is cut to about ten minutes, so you gotta work faster. There is also a wicking thread locker they sell, but don't recommend it for anything you might want to remove. Avoid the 242 (blue) for real small screws as it never was designed for anything smaller than a 1/4" screw.
gary