You would need a fine file with a safe edge and go slow to be successful. Brownell's sells them.
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Savage primary extractor fixes ? Please advise
- Thread starter Gregg C
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- primary extractor savage
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Instead of grinding down your bolt body, why don't you try shimming the rear bolt baffle? The primary extraction happens when the ramp on the bolt handle comes into contact with the ramp on the rear bolt baffle. You can change that engagement by either bringing the bolt handle closer to the rear bolt baffle or you can bring the rear bolt baffle closer to the bolt handle.
Try just shimming the rear bolt baffle by applying something like aluminum muffler tape to the back side of the baffle which rests against the rear of the action. Add a couple layers at a time and then test your primary extraction. The other way is to insert a feeler gauge and get an exact measurement of how far you need to move the rear bolt baffle to get the desired contact. Once you've determined how much you need to shim the rear baffle you can make shim of the proper thickness. If you want to get fancy you can drill and tap the rear bolt baffle to accept 2 or 3 brass set screws so that you can actually tune your primary extraction.
The other easy way to fix this is to just try a different bolt handle. More often than not, that works wonders.
Try just shimming the rear bolt baffle by applying something like aluminum muffler tape to the back side of the baffle which rests against the rear of the action. Add a couple layers at a time and then test your primary extraction. The other way is to insert a feeler gauge and get an exact measurement of how far you need to move the rear bolt baffle to get the desired contact. Once you've determined how much you need to shim the rear baffle you can make shim of the proper thickness. If you want to get fancy you can drill and tap the rear bolt baffle to accept 2 or 3 brass set screws so that you can actually tune your primary extraction.
The other easy way to fix this is to just try a different bolt handle. More often than not, that works wonders.
Brownells Part # 191-058-190WB file
# 537-020-002WB file cleaner
# 080-705-006WB file chalk
# 537-020-002WB file cleaner
# 080-705-006WB file chalk
nvbowhunter
Member
Yes, I used a small fine file. Put a safe edge on it myself at the edge sander. I started having primary extraction issues after replacing the bolt body with a PTG fluted body. Measured the differences in the two, then used the safe edge file to make the body match the originals units measurements. Granted, I was less than pleased with PTG's product. Nothing new!
Jumping in here, shortening the back of the bolt body worked well for me. All I did was use a depth mic to measure from back of bolt handle to back of bolt body 'tits' and then machined just enough so that the bolt handle would still tighten down. Think it was like .018". Helped a bunch.
That's what I found as well. I got there a little differently, I took an expended case that wouldn't extract and feeler gauges, and kept decreasing the clearance until the bolt wouldn't open, which happened at .054 of feeler gauge. So I figured that .050 would give the ramp nearly 100% contact. However, I would need to open up the bolt relief by .015 or so. If I settle for .020 decrease in baffle clearance, the extraction still is greatly improved, and no need to file or grind the receiver. Haven't really made up my mind yet, except that it's gonna happen. Thinking I might shoot it, with feeler gauge , and make certain. I also thought about , after getting the measurement locked down, buying a fluted bolt, since I like the look , cut to length. Lots of ways to get there, I guess.
