Salt Bath Annealing

I should add for anyone wanting to go this route...

The stainless brass holders that the canadian vender made are worth the coin. Mine were 25 each (2) one for large brass and one for small. They cover the lee melt pot exept the hole for brass to slip in. I think this can help keep an accidental bump/slosh contained. Also limits debris from getting in. I was going to wing it and then bought them at the last minute. Im glad i did.

If you wet tumble: Make Sure Brass is dry inside! One drop of water will send hot liquid flying. Again...the steel disc cover for the pot will prevent it from hitting you but you really should have leather gloves in case...
 
does the salt stick to the brass? or how do you know the case is cleaned? would you do this in your reloading process like Decap/size > Anneal> Load? Or would it be better to do this Anneal > Decap/Size > Load?
 
does the salt stick to the brass? or how do you know the case is cleaned? would you do this in your reloading process like Decap/size > Anneal> Load? Or would it be better to do this Anneal > Decap/Size > Load?
A very small amount (trace). Its sodium nitrate and potassium nitrates hence the hazmat ship charge. I went ahead and got mine from the canadian vender and bought 1 extra container since it lose 1 drop per dip. Should last 5years since i aneal every 3rd fire.

It is water soluble so i just wipe brass with damp rag and call it good. (AFTER ITS DIPPED OF COURSE)

I shoot 2 or 3 times. Universal decap.... Quick clean. Aneal and wipe off. Lube and size.

does the salt stick to the brass? or how do you know the case is cleaned? would you do this in your reloading process like Decap/size > Anneal> Load? Or would it be better to do this Anneal > Decap/Size > Load?
 
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Thanks! Great tip! Safety first. My kids are 17 and 14 respectively. They have their own wildcats and do their own reloading.
Sounds like your kids are capable....thats good. The older i get and look back at all the close calls the more i preach saftey..

Shrewed is the one who sees the calamity and conceals himself....(one of my favorite scriptures now days.) Lol
 
I also built a large sheet metal tray with rubber feet. This way if the salt drips off the case it drips on the tray and solidifies. When your done you chip off the splattered salt and drop it right back in the pot. Works amazingly well.
I been using cookie sheets from dollar store for project trays. I should use one under the pot like you are and catch the drips too.
 
My brother added some wheel weights in a batch of lead one time and with the weights was some moisture. It shot some hot lead over both of us....still have the lead spots on my arms where it burned into the muscle. So i figured it is worth mentioning the "safe" aspect especially where youth are involved.

We were young and keith stone (always smooth) was there. So now i say no liquids at all on the bench.... And i dont drink while loading or casting. My memory is bad enough without A beer.
 
this sounds great! except for the danger of the heat, is there a way to screw it up? can you set the depth of the plate for different cases?
 
You need a temperature probe which I got off eBay for $6 had to wait for it to come from China but I bought one in Celsius because if you stay at the 500 to 550 Celsius and just monitor the digital temperature gauge you cannot screw it up. The blow torch is fire hotter and that will screw it up.

One way you could screw it up is by leaving it in the solution too long and allowing the heat to soften all the way down the brass to the case head.

The gentleman that sells the salt solution include some instructions with a recommended timing and at the temperatures he recommended and the timing I found he is correct. He says five to eight seconds I believe and pull it out so I just do 6 seconds and have no issues.

Part of the problem with the torch is it is unregulated heat it varies every time you light the torch up. And because the temperature is so high it's easy to exceed the length of time you should have heated it and then you overheat. With the salt method you don't risk overheating you only risk the heat traveling too far but you would really have to be leaving it in there for a long period of time to do that.
 
You need a temperature probe which I got off eBay for $6 had to wait for it to come from China but I bought one in Celsius because if you stay at the 500 to 550 Celsius and just monitor the digital temperature gauge you cannot screw it up. The blow torch is fire hotter and that will screw it up.

One way you could screw it up is by leaving it in the solution too long and allowing the heat to soften all the way down the brass to the case head.

The gentleman that sells the salt solution include some instructions with a recommended timing and at the temperatures he recommended and the timing I found he is correct. He says five to eight seconds I believe and pull it out so I just do 6 seconds and have no issues.

Part of the problem with the torch is it is unregulated heat it varies every time you light the torch up. And because the temperature is so high it's easy to exceed the length of time you should have heated it and then you overheat. With the salt method you don't risk overheating you only risk the heat traveling too far but you would really have to be leaving it in there for a long period of time to do that.

so unless i leave it in while i get a new beer, i should be good.

can you adjust the height of the holder? or its not really an issue on shortaction/longaction cases and they use the same holder?
 
There's a standard case holder and a large. You use the level of the salt for your annealing depth on the case. I have the large and I anneal 25 wssm, all the RUMS, 7 saum, 378 Weatherby Improved and 340 Weatherby Improved. Works perfect.
 
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