Salt Bath Annealing

[mhamlin]

I've used this setup for a couple of years now and it works great. Make sure to keep water/moisture away from molten salt, or you get a hot salt bath (not much different than molten lead). I'm told the fumes are a dangerous inhalation hazard, so use with adequate ventilation. Supposedly it is similar/same as the deadly bath salts that kids and junkies were inhaling and dying from a year or two ago.

 

[Deputy819]

). I'm told the fumes are a dangerous inhalation hazard,

Pretty sure the manual that came with the kit and the video say that dangerous fumes are released ONLY if the salt is heated above 590C.

 

[newmexkid]

I really like my MRB annealer and it works great but, I'm getting tempted into trying this salt stuff. I figure you can get into it for just over $100.

 

[kraig]

My son and I have been using the salt bath for a while now and have been VERY happy with the results. Over all it is simple and more consistent to use than many inexpensive annealing methods. I say this after making an automatic annealing machine for use with a torch. The torch autoloading annealing machine is much harder to make, easier to use once made, but not quite as consistent & I found the flame to be harder to set up each time plus the temp paint to gauge the how hot the brass gets isn't overly cheap.

With that said I strongly recommend just buying the stainless brass holder instead of trying to make your own. Its just not worth the $30 to make it yourself. We did find the salt cheaper at http://www.hightemptools.com/salts.html you want the Low Temperature Salts for Heat Treating 300-1000F. Follow the instructions and it is fairly forgiving process as long as you take precautions. We typically process about 200-500 or so pieces of brass at a time, you'll notice when the salt is getting low.

PRECAUTIONS:
- Make sure you get a temp. probe or at least use a IR thermometer
- DO NOT OVER HEAT IT or you will end up with toxic fumes.
- Do not get water or sweat in the molten salt, it doesn't burn it melts flesh.
don't even have water or drinks any where near the pot.
- Wear a face shield and welding stuff to protect yourself
- Make sure the brass is clean and DRY. VERY VERY DRY!
- When adding salt be very very careful not to splash

I typically just rinse the brass with hot water real good and then dry real good before starting to reload.

Good luck, but please be careful. Take molten salt very serious and give it the respect it deserves.

 

[corsair4360]

Thanks for the post, went to buy, but the "standard" size unit is out of stock. Bummer

 

[HobieH3]

That's a pretty cool setup.

Used to work at a company that roll formed Al for aircraft parts and did with the coils. Salt bath was industry standard 30+ yrs ago.

 

[wwbrown]

I know the high temp salts that are used for heat treating knives creates fumes that tend to rust most anything in the shop. Do these low temp salts cause the same problem?

 

[gspman1]

Looks easy and consistent. Anyone using this method? I would guess it's fairly new.

I have been using the salt bath anealling system for about a years on 223 AI and 300M cases. It works well and is easy. The extra task is drying cases after rince...no biggy put them in a food dehydrator.

 

[kraig]

I know the high temp salts that are used for heat treating knives creates fumes that tend to rust most anything in the shop. Do these low temp salts cause the same problem?

I haven't run into any such problems. It might be if you left the salt molten all the time but really it is just on for an hour or so. Then just clean up the surrounding area to make sure there is no salt splatter and that is the extent of the mess or salt getting on things.

 

[Doublezranch]

My plans are too take the annealed cases out of the quench bucket and throw them right in my RCBS Ultrasonic Cleaner. That way all the salt is off the cases and I should be gtg!

 

[kraig]

My plans are too take the annealed cases out of the quench bucket and throw them right in my RCBS Ultrasonic Cleaner. That way all the salt is off the cases and I should be gtg!

I've not had any problems with salt "sticking" to cases as long as I keep them wet. When the quench pot is full I rinse and drain a few times with hot water then stack them to dry so I can reload the next day. Ultrasonic cleaner +1. It's a good precaution to keep the quench bucket on the floor or anywhere not on the bench so there is no chance of water splashing into the salt.

 

[cape cove]

I purchased this kit appx 3 months ago and find it works great.Very straight forward, but remember this liquid is very hot so take care. I use a face shield and welding apron just to be on the safe side. I've done about 600 cases and works just as advertized. Any info needed don't be afraid to call Gary. Great guy to talk with. He told me he has been selling this kit for a while now, but once the various forms got wind of his product he just hasn't been able to keep up.

 

[Mudduck]

I had been researching Annealing methods/machines for about 3 years but could not justify the costs for most of them until I came across this salt kit with the Lee melter just over a year ago. It works great and produces consistant results. However if you want to impress your friends with a nice big automated hiteck machine this isnt going to do it .. but if you want to impress them with great results for under $100 bucks they will be extremely impressed ...

 

[Trb696]

Just got all the stuff to collected to build my auto flame annealer, argh, now have to reconsider use for motor and speed control. Maybe a rotating target for rifle and bow now...