Using the BenchSource, I do not quench. Every case spends the same amount of time in the flame, and they are essentially indistinguishable from another once they are done. If there is any difference in migration of heat it is miniscule, and more importantly not done at temps that would anneal the brass.
I suppose that I could have them drop into water when they leave the BenchSource, but see no need for it.
Hey Gary. Check this out. This is me trying to buy one of your kits after putting in my shipping info. The $1000 in shipping is geeuuuust a bit much. Probably why you have inventory right now. I see where you say you will provide a personalized shipping quote in a day but your system is asking me to ok a $1099 payment to you right now and then what?; trust you won't keep it. Good and you? Let me know how that works. Id like to try it on my store.From the man himself:
Thanks for reaching out to me. I knew that the folks at AMP were doing some lab tests with the salt bath process but I wasn't expecting such a hack job with the reporting.
I've just had a chance to read it through once, and my first reaction is a little jealousy that they have the ability to do all this lab work that I've always wanted to do, but don't have the resources for. Next comes a feeling of irritation that for the last two years the number one criticism I've faced is the accusation that even the bottom end of my range (450°C) was too hot (from all the people who took the internet-accepted number of 750°F as gospel), now I'm reading an attack that says even my top end of 550° is too cold! Call it proof that you just can't make everyone happy.
I will take some time to read it carefully and formulate a response.
Regards,
Gary Chambers
Ballistic Recreations
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I think they're implying that flame is closer to induction than dipping, with the assumption that we actually desire full annealing. But I dip because I do not want full annealing. I want controlled/consistent stress relieving, which is nearly impossible with flame..why would AMP have suggested this in the second to last paragraph of their report,
"For those reloaders considering getting started on annealing, and who are on a budget, we would recommend a gas flame-based option." ?
Quenching a ferrous metal hardens it, brass has a whole different spectrum of properties. Stress hardens brass, work hardening, by continually reshaping it. High heat simply realigns the grain structure of the brass and this causes it to soften up. Quenching it doesnt have the same effect on brass as it does other metals.Ok...the first thing that pops into my mind is something that I've thought was improper to do regardless the method used...quenching the brass.
I'm no engineer so I've never study any on how metal works technically. But I have heat treated and tempered steel while build a AK receiver. It seems to have worked as there is no wear in the areas I did.
Any way...I wonder if they had let the brass cool naturally, if it would have improved there results. I do mine with a torch and let them cool naturally. The brass fairly hot to touch for long time.
I have read like many of you I'm sure, that the job is done as soon as the heat leaves the piece so it doesn't matter how you cool the brass. But that has never seemed correct in my little brain.
Has there been any study of just stress relief in the brass depending on the type of case preparation? Tumbling with metal media, soft media, no tumbling? Aging? Low temp baking? All these things can be factors in other metals.More information !!!
http://www.metalmart.com/tools/hardness-conversions/brass/
No doubt that different cartridges need different hardness's for their use. and most re loaders would probably want the case to be on the soft side (MINIMUM), but resizing some cases to soft can lead to other problems.
J E CUSTOM
I'll do it! I've got 2 batches of .338-06 cases (Winchester). Both batches have been fired well over 4 times (primer pockets starting to loosen a little). One batch has NEVER been annealed and the other batch was just Salt Bath Annealed last weekend, BUT already sized and tumbled clean (corn-cob media/anneal marks removed). Would that be sufficient for you? I could always fire one, anneal it and NOT size it?If someone with a Salt Bath system would send me a couple of cases, I will test them on a Rockwell Hardness tester and give an evaluation.
+1That's what i love about this forum. No-one happy enough to take someone else's word for something; we'll test it ourselves thank you!