I have a safe full of tang safety Ruger 77s. Unless your Ruger 77 has been shot to death, it, "WILL shoot". The last Ruger77 that I bought off of GunBroker looked like it had been dragged behind a truck! The first thing that I would do it to glass bed and float the barrel; float the barrel from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug. I use two layers of Brownells .010 thousandths pipe tape. Pillar bed the rear screw, don't really bother with the front lug because the pillar really isn't that long and almost not worth doing. The front receiver screw gets torqued between 60-65 inch pounds, the rear receiver screw gets 25 inch pounds and the center screw (just behind the magazine box) gets tightened finger-tight, just enough pressure to prevent the screw from turning back out. Also I would be checking your scope out as well as make sure that your scope rings are torqued properly; 30 inch pounds on the base and 25 inch pounds on the rings. I have a 35 Whelen, when the groups open up, usually it is because the scope rings have loosened up. Do you have a round top or do you have the integral scope base? There's a really good gunsmith in Montana who likes working on Ruger 77s, have used him to build a couple of rifles for me, and do some bluing and gunsmith work. His work is impeccable and meticulous, prices are reasonable and turn around is two to three months because that is how long it takes to get a barrel from Lilja. I strongly suggest that you don't give up on this rifle right away. If you can get the work done on your rifle that I have suggested, it will shoot sub-MOA.