roll crimp vs taper crimp (search failure)

[dhbikerczar]

So I tried to search for roll crimp vs taper crimp. It didn't really find anything, but there's a ton of "crimp or don't crimp" threads. I've been reloading for rifle for a long time, so I'm not a newb in that regard (Yes, I have the A&D FX300I and Anealeaze and K&M neck turning and arbor press etc etc) but I really don't know jack about reloading for my revolvers. I have three that I am about out of ammo for. my grandfather gave me hundreds of rounds for each my 44 mag, 38-44, and my 357 mag (yes, I'm aware of the history between the 38-44 and 357 Mag, I'm still looking for 38-44 head stamp brass). In general my understanding is that you bell out the end of the case somewhere in the sizing process, then prim/powder/seat, then crimp. Looking at die in general for handgun, I see roll crimp and taper crimp. What's exactly the difference. For hunting loads in the revolvers, is one better than another and why, or is it that one is for semi autos and one is for revolvers?

Thank you for input on my 101 level question.... that I'm rather surprised didn't find anything in the search for.

 

[jimbires]

I keep timing out trying to post 3 pics . I'll try 1 at a time .

 

[jimbires]

I can't get the other 2 to load . I'll try later . in a nutshell , roll crimp is good for rifle and revolver . taper crimp is for cases that headspace off the case mouth . these would be like a 45acp. straight wall , without a rim .

 

[dhbikerczar]

Okay, I kind of had a feeling the taper case might be more semi auto oriented.

 

[jimbires]

here is #2

 

[jimbires]

here is #3

 

[jimbires]

here is a little more info on crimping

 

[jimbires]

these stupid motion advertisements just kill my computer . crimping part 2 on the way .

 

[jimbires]

part # 2 hope this helps .

 

[Rusty PW]

Rounds like .38, 357, 44. I roll crimp. .380, 9mm, 40 S&W, 45ACP. I taper crimp.

 

[MagnumManiac]

The simple answer is this. A cartridge that headspaces off a rim requires a ROLL CRIMP. A cartridge that headspaces off the case mouth requires a TAPER CRIMP.
So your 38-44, 357 & 44 need ROLL CRIMPING.
My own 44 gets a heavy crimp, if you measure it's inward depression into the cannelure, it measure approximately .025-.030".
As I shoot a lever action and pistol, they need this to be interchangeable so the bullets do not get pushed back into the case and the heavy crimp also ensures that the 296 powder gets a full and complete burn at max pressure.
Hope this helps.

Cheers.

 

[FEENIX]

So I tried to search for roll crimp vs taper crimp. It didn't really find anything, but there's a ton of "crimp or don't crimp" threads. I've been reloading for rifle for a long time, so I'm not a newb in that regard (Yes, I have the A&D FX300I and Anealeaze and K&M neck turning and arbor press etc etc) but I really don't know jack about reloading for my revolvers. I have three that I am about out of ammo for. my grandfather gave me hundreds of rounds for each my 44 mag, 38-44, and my 357 mag (yes, I'm aware of the history between the 38-44 and 357 Mag, I'm still looking for 38-44 head stamp brass). In general my understanding is that you bell out the end of the case somewhere in the sizing process, then prim/powder/seat, then crimp. Looking at die in general for handgun, I see roll crimp and taper crimp. What's exactly the difference. For hunting loads in the revolvers, is one better than another and why, or is it that one is for semi autos and one is for revolvers?

Thank you for input on my 101 level question.... that I'm rather surprised didn't find anything in the search for.

YouTube has a few videos of roll and taper crimp.

 

[Lefty38-55]

FWIW brass lasts LONGER whilst taper crimping versus roll crimping, so I use taper crimps on both my 357 and 44 Mag reloads.