quandary
Well-Known Member
Also PMA Tool makes by far the best bore guides out there.
pmatool.com
pmatool.com
Rifle Cleaning Equipment Question
- Thread starter RugerHawg413
- Start date
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ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I have all but quit using brushes, so even though I have the adapters I don't need them very often.
The Parker-Hale jag that Dewey sells has become my preferred jag.
I give the Dewey handle bearings a couple drops of Break-Free when new, and usually don't worry about them ever again.
The Parker-Hale jag that Dewey sells has become my preferred jag.
I give the Dewey handle bearings a couple drops of Break-Free when new, and usually don't worry about them ever again.
Minimal cleaning on rifles shooting 45+g of powder will leade to hard-cooked on carbon down the line, often it can not be removed.
So, methods used for shooting a 6 PPC with 28g of Powder do not apply to cartridges that shoot 40g+ powder.
What should be learned from Speedys demonstration is:
a. Cleaning station
b. rifle vise
c. bore guide- PMA, Neil Jones, are among the best with a bushing that centers the rod in the rod guide
d. deliberate push and pulls on the rod, feeling the patch/brush as it works
e. rod caddy
Again, when shooting registered benchrest, we cleaned every 7-10 rounds, shooting 27-28g of powder.
With my custom hunting rifles, keeping the carbon and copper out of the barrel every 30-50 rounds makes for MUCH easier bore maintenance vs waiting for 100 rounds where cooked on carbon becomes VERY difficult to remove.
Individual Barrels in addition to the caliber dictate much of the cleaning frequency and intensity of cleaning frequency, driven by the accuracy requirement that you have for your own particular needs.
I buy good bronze bristle brushes 6 dozen at a time, Std Dewey bronze bristle or Pro shot. The bronze bristle brush does it's most effective use in the first 60 strokes, and is worn out by 100 strokes.
Keith Glasscock is an F class shooter in National standing, and his videos on bore cleaning are among the very best ever made. He compares several products and shows the effects of those products.
So, methods used for shooting a 6 PPC with 28g of Powder do not apply to cartridges that shoot 40g+ powder.
What should be learned from Speedys demonstration is:
a. Cleaning station
b. rifle vise
c. bore guide- PMA, Neil Jones, are among the best with a bushing that centers the rod in the rod guide
d. deliberate push and pulls on the rod, feeling the patch/brush as it works
e. rod caddy
Again, when shooting registered benchrest, we cleaned every 7-10 rounds, shooting 27-28g of powder.
With my custom hunting rifles, keeping the carbon and copper out of the barrel every 30-50 rounds makes for MUCH easier bore maintenance vs waiting for 100 rounds where cooked on carbon becomes VERY difficult to remove.
Individual Barrels in addition to the caliber dictate much of the cleaning frequency and intensity of cleaning frequency, driven by the accuracy requirement that you have for your own particular needs.
I buy good bronze bristle brushes 6 dozen at a time, Std Dewey bronze bristle or Pro shot. The bronze bristle brush does it's most effective use in the first 60 strokes, and is worn out by 100 strokes.
Keith Glasscock is an F class shooter in National standing, and his videos on bore cleaning are among the very best ever made. He compares several products and shows the effects of those products.
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Dewey rods are fine. I prefer Bore tech, I think they are the best. For bore guide, it's Possum Hollow.Hello,
I am looking at getting me some new cleaning equipment for my .300 PRC, below is a kit from Dewey rods. And I was wondering if anyone has bought one of these before and if so please let me know your thoughts on not only the cleaning rod but also the bore guide that is included as well.
Also, how often or after how many rounds do you normally clean your barrel?
All info is appreciated! Thank you!
You can't go wrong with either cleaning rod. I'm not a fan of the dewey bore guide. It allows solvent to leak back into the chamber were as the Possum Hollow bore guide has an O-ring that seals off the chamber preventing a solvent leak.
RugerHawg413
Well-Known Member
Understood. Thank you for the info!
The coefficient of friction between the barrel and the rod are critical issues. You want to keep the rod from rubbing the bore in the throat to eliminate wear, and rods will put wear on the land heights. The lowest coefficient of friction rods will be solid stainless steel, but they got a bad reputation for wearing barrels in the 80's, when guys would not keep their rods clean.
The coefficient of friction of plastic on steel is greater than stainless on stainless, and the quality of the bearings in the handle dictates how well the rod rotates in the bore. I have used Dewey rods for decades, Pro Shot Stainless, One tipton carbon fiber, and recently a Montana Extreme rod. The Montana Extreme rod is absolutely the best, and you do get what you pay for.
As you get older, your friends pass on, and you inherit their cleaning rods
When you bend a rod, get rid of it in a hurry or you will be wearing the land height 9-12" down the bore possibly creating some strange harmonics. A guy who cleans his bore like he is a maniac on crack will do some damage to his bore. Using Straight and deliberate push/pulls on the cleaning rod, feeling the brush/patch do it's work will yield the best results while not bending the rod in the process.
The coefficient of friction of plastic on steel is greater than stainless on stainless, and the quality of the bearings in the handle dictates how well the rod rotates in the bore. I have used Dewey rods for decades, Pro Shot Stainless, One tipton carbon fiber, and recently a Montana Extreme rod. The Montana Extreme rod is absolutely the best, and you do get what you pay for.
As you get older, your friends pass on, and you inherit their cleaning rods
When you bend a rod, get rid of it in a hurry or you will be wearing the land height 9-12" down the bore possibly creating some strange harmonics. A guy who cleans his bore like he is a maniac on crack will do some damage to his bore. Using Straight and deliberate push/pulls on the cleaning rod, feeling the brush/patch do it's work will yield the best results while not bending the rod in the process.
I have both cleaning rods. My only criterion that INMO is important is not using brass jags. They tend to give false positives and green residue on patches. I have shifted to nonb rass jags.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
All of the "premium" jags are brass, which does give a false positive. All of the entry level jags are aluminum. Maybe I should just buy more of those and then have them hard anodized?
I wish that I could buy stainless jags. Any premium mfg reading this, make them from UNS S30300, thanks. If I had a cnc in my garage y'all could buy them from me.
I wish that I could buy stainless jags. Any premium mfg reading this, make them from UNS S30300, thanks. If I had a cnc in my garage y'all could buy them from me.
The simple solution is to rely on the bore scope and forget about the jag.
