Rifle Build

The "cool stuff" would be heavier higher bc bullets than what a standard twist would be able to handle. The only thing that holds bullet makers back is the lack of faster twist barrels out there to handle longer bullets. You are getting a bit faster than standard twist for the .243 cal and I think that is a good thing.

Steve

Oh yeah. I think that's pretty cool as well. I have always been intrigued by shooting stuff to great distances and this will fulfill that. What do you guys think a good load for the 105 class bullets would be? I've heard that imr4350 is a pretty 243 friendly powder.
 
Oh yeah. I think that's pretty cool as well. I have always been intrigued by shooting stuff to great distances and this will fulfill that. What do you guys think a good load for the 105 class bullets would be? I've heard that imr4350 is a pretty 243 friendly powder.

I think 4350 is pretty friendly to many cartridges. Anymore the friendly powder is the one you have or can get.:rolleyes:

Steve
 
Quick Update. The Barrel is in, Stock is yet to be ordered, Scope still has not shipped but my card got charged so that brings hope. I figure some bases, rings, and the stock and bipod and I'll be GTG.
 
Quick Update. The Barrel is in, Stock is yet to be ordered, Scope still has not shipped but my card got charged so that brings hope. I figure some bases, rings, and the stock and bipod and I'll be GTG.

Zach,

You've got an excellent base line on your build and received excellent and sound advice. Savage actions are very DIY friendly; here's http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f22/my-budget-270-ai-97745/

Welcome to the addition, rest assured this is not going to be your last build. :D

Good luck on your build and keep us posted.

Cheers!

Ed
 
I may eventually build another in a larger game caliber. I'm not too confident on anything over a mule deer with the .243 even though I know I can place hits. For now I do have a .45-70 for bigger game and I do love that rifle but who knows.
 
Well, seems this build is starting to come together. What I have in so far
Rifle: Savage 10 Staggerfeed Action
Stock: B&C Medalist Black with Red Web
Bipod: Harris BR-M w/ flat forend adapter
Scope: Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 MOA FFP (Finally came after 3 1/2 Month Backorder)
Barrel: 26" McGowen .243 Win 1-8 Sendero Profile

I haven't gotten rings or bases yet. I'm a little weary on getting the height wrong. I think medium would be fine but I'm not sure and I know some of it depends on the base.
 
Call bug holes and get you a Bartlein or Kraiger. They do Savage prefits.

26" would be my pick. 8 twist would.be my choice.

Contour? Is this a range gun or are you going to be hiking.with it?
 
Well, seems this build is starting to come together. What I have in so far
Rifle: Savage 10 Staggerfeed Action
Stock: B&C Medalist Black with Red Web
Bipod: Harris BR-M w/ flat forend adapter
Scope: Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 MOA FFP (Finally came after 3 1/2 Month Backorder)
Barrel: 26" McGowen .243 Win 1-8 Sendero Profile

I haven't gotten rings or bases yet. I'm a little weary on getting the height wrong. I think medium would be fine but I'm not sure and I know some of it depends on the base.
I've gone to using the EGW heavy weight rails for their added rigidity and minimal weight. I find then that unless you are going with a steeply canted rail at say 30moa generally you will do just fine with low or medium TSR-W rings. Len turned me on to those rings several years ago and it's some of the best advice I've been given to date.
 
Call bug holes and get you a Bartlein or Kraiger. They do Savage prefits.

26" would be my pick. 8 twist would.be my choice.

Contour? Is this a range gun or are you going to be hiking.with it?

I already have everything sitting at home except for the scope bases, rings, recoil lug, and barrel nut wrench. The theoretical weight is at about 13 pounds so it's right at what I would consider max for walking around with. Above max for hiking up mountains but fine for moving around from stand to stand.
 
I've gone to using the EGW heavy weight rails for their added rigidity and minimal weight. I find then that unless you are going with a steeply canted rail at say 30moa generally you will do just fine with low or medium TSR-W rings. Len turned me on to those rings several years ago and it's some of the best advice I've been given to date.

I've been looking at EGW bases. My dad has one on his F-TR Savage and it seems fine. I don't know if the .243 will be shooting flat enough to use a 0 MOA base so I'll likely go with their 20moa base. I think those rings look pretty solid. Thanks.
 
I've been looking at EGW bases. My dad has one on his F-TR Savage and it seems fine. I don't know if the .243 will be shooting flat enough to use a 0 MOA base so I'll likely go with their 20moa base. I think those rings look pretty solid. Thanks.

That should do it, esp. their HD, on either case make sure you bed the base. Good luck!

Cheers!

Ed
 
That should do it, esp. their HD, on either case make sure you bed the base. Good luck!

Cheers!

Ed

I'll have to look up how to bed a base when the time comes. Likely, I'll slap it all together without bedding and run some factory ammo through it to start. I do reload but between my return, moving, the honey-do list, and Christmas Leave, I doubt I'll get any time on the reloading bench. Thanks FEENIX.
 
I'll have to look up how to bed a base when the time comes. Likely, I'll slap it all together without bedding and run some factory ammo through it to start. I do reload but between my return, moving, the honey-do list, and Christmas Leave, I doubt I'll get any time on the reloading bench. Thanks FEENIX.
Nothing to it, just be sure to keep it out of the screw holes and off of the threads. Just put a thin bit of epoxy around the edges and across the centers away from the screw holes and just for added protection use release agent on the screws when you mount it.

Once it's mounted just barely snug the screws, let it set a half hour or so and clean up the excess that bleeds out.

Let it set overnight, remove the screws and clean them along with cleaning out the screw holes to remove it all and then replace the screws and torque them to spec. If you want to loctite them use blue loctite otherwise if you ever do need to remove them again you can do so without fear of snapping them off. Never use the red loctite on anything you may one day have to remove for some reason because to do so requires a great deal of heat.
 
I'll have to look up how to bed a base when the time comes. Likely, I'll slap it all together without bedding and run some factory ammo through it to start. I do reload but between my return, moving, the honey-do list, and Christmas Leave, I doubt I'll get any time on the reloading bench. Thanks FEENIX.

As WR noted, it's fairly simple ...

[ame]https://youtu.be/d6RopWI0-GE?t=2[/ame]

Cheers!

Ed
 
Warning! This thread is more than 8 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top