Rifle Build - Help me decide

His 1000 blueprint quote includes chamber and thread which is ~400 of that I'm guessing
 
It's 1k for a lot more than blueprinting guys. Reread the ops post
Thanks for covering me, yeah blueoront is only $350 by itself.
I honestly don't know why I hadn't looked more at some of the remington factory options. That AWR is badass. I actually have a close friend with one in 300 win and he loves it. And that would give me a solds platform to hunt and shoot with right away but maybe trick out later....

I also like your second option but it would tip the scales a bit higher.

Thanks for sending me those. Sometimes I get tunnel vision when I'm looking at other people's builds drooling.

Still like the Mesa though...
 
I agree with one of the above posts stating that it looks like apples vs oranges comparison. $200 trigger with the M700 but the Tikka trigger is 'serviceable?
I have a custom / semi custom built on a M700/Krieger that I have been extremely happy with. You just need to decide what you want in your rifle and go that route. In a year or two you will likely be wishing you had done that if you start taking too many other's opinions on your rifle.
On a side note, yes, Remington has filed for reorg bankruptcy. They are not going away, they are reorganizing. I would not let that dictate your decision one way or another.
 
IMO you're comparing apples to oranges a bit. With the 700 action you're doing the works the tikka you plan on a barrel swap. You should have 3.7" mag to work with, a tikka just isn't your best bet for a 300win mag.

A bolt can be fluted and different handle installed later. I would have an action blue printed, barrel chambered and threaded for brake and cerakote everything as the essentials. It's good stuff and great for bad weather. But it all adds up.
As for a trigger, I really like my Calvin elite, I would go for 700 or 700 clone and run one of those. How you're describing your funds and needing a rifle by fall, buy the Mesa and upgrade it later. Get the stock, trigger, barrel you want when funds allow, until then shoot the heck out of it.
Another option is a b14 and upgrade as you go. You don't want a sporter stock, what about a b14 hmr, vertical grip, then change the barrel to a cf down the road and cut weight?
All good points...

So if I run just a fitting and truing with muzzle threaded and nothing else, I believe that can be done for $500 thru LRI. Probably another 200 for cerakote which honestly, i could do that later.

My question is, what's a barrel blank and good contour for a good long range hunting build?

If I went this route, on a straight 700 action, what weight would I be looking at for the barreled action?
 
All good points...

So if I run just a fitting and truing with muzzle threaded and nothing else, I believe that can be done for $500 thru LRI. Probably another 200 for cerakote which honestly, i could do that later.

My question is, what's a barrel blank and good contour for a good long range hunting build?

If I went this route, on a straight 700 action, what weight would I be looking at for the barreled action?

Look up the 700 action weight, and use the barrel weight calculator from whatever barrel maker you decide to go with.
 
You are wanting an awful lot of customization and nice-to-have's for a $1500 budget. You can't have it both ways.

I'd do a Savage or Remage. Skip ALL smithing costs.

Rifle #1: 338 Edge, Stiller action, McGowan prefit barrel. Totally home built, including modifying the Stiller action to feed the near-4-inch cartridge. .25-.33 MOA rifle, took 3rd in a 2000 yard competition against rifles 2X the cost and an elk at 730 yards.

Rifle #2: 6X45. Bought cheapest .223 Remington I could get at Gander Mountain out-of-business sale. Screwed on a McGowan prefit. .33-.5 MOA rifle.

Rifle #3: 243AI. Savage factory donor, Shilen prefit. .25-.33 MOA rifle.

Unless you are building a match rifle, I say skip the blueprinting and just build it. If you can't make it shoot you can work the action later.
 
New Remington = bankruptcy

Buy whatever you want
That has nothing to do with anything. Numbers and decimals, stocks and options... They file bankruptcy, and then eliminate a portion of their accrued debt, that way they can continue running. So has Savage, Winchester, Marlin, and most all major weapons manufacturers.

Cerberus Financial and Freedom Group are the best as acquiring gun manufacturers then pushing them to the brink of destruction over a few years. Not to put on my tinfoil hat, but it almost seems like it's an inside job to destroy the gun companies, since they can't destroy the 2nd Amendment, they'll just destroy something they actually CAN. Strange how as soon as Freedom Group (funded by Cerberus) buys something, it starts making board member changes, and then the company starts heading for a black hole.

I wish someone with tons of money that love guns and respects the 2nd Amendment (like maybe Trump Industries, ran by Don Jr. & Eric Trump) would buy a company like Remington, and then push it back into the #1 American rifle manufacturer in the country.
 
All good points...

So if I run just a fitting and truing with muzzle threaded and nothing else, I believe that can be done for $500 thru LRI. Probably another 200 for cerakote which honestly, i could do that later.

My question is, what's a barrel blank and good contour for a good long range hunting build?

If I went this route, on a straight 700 action, what weight would I be looking at for the barreled action?
The Remington 700 5R Milspec rifles will not necessarily need truing and blueprinting, and typically will shoot sub-1/2 MOA right out of the box. I have 2 of them (.308 Win & .300WM), and while I have not shot the .300WM yet, the .308 Win I have had since 2010, and it shoots in the .1xx" to .3xx" 3-shot groups on average (with handloads, of course) as long as I do my part. They are built to the same specs and quality as the M24 sniper rifles the military uses...The only differences is the barrels are turned-down to a Rem Sendero/Varmint contour, instead of the heavier M24 contour. The barrels are not your typical Remington barrels (this is noticed the very first time you run a brush and then a wet patch & jag down the barrel). They are super-smooth and very easily and quickly cleaned. They are MUCH higher quality. If you get one, I recommend shooting the rifle first. Do a 50 round break-in period. Then see how it shoots with some load testing. I do, however, recommend an immediate trigger swap, as the factory triggers are horrendous.

The picture in my avatar was 24 shots in a row (no break) with my 5R Milspec .308 Win the first time out. I put the first 50 shots down it for break-in (5-shot groups, then letting it cool), then groups started getting consistent and settling in. Then I shot that group with shots 76-100 down the barrel.

Another group I shot with it...

fullsizeoutput_11ce.jpeg
 
The Remington 700 5R Milspec rifles will not necessarily need truing and blueprinting, and typically will shoot sub-1/2 MOA right out of the box. I have 2 of them (.308 Win & .300WM), and while I have not shot the .300WM yet, the .308 Win I have had since 2010, and it shoots in the .1xx" to .3xx" 3-shot groups on average (with handloads, of course) as long as I do my part. They are built to the same specs and quality as the M24 sniper rifles the military uses. The barrels are not your typical Remington barrels (this is noticed the very first time you run a brush and then a wet patch & jag down the barrel). They are super-smooth and very easily and quickly cleaned. They are MUCH higher quality. If you get one, I recommend shooting the rifle first. Do a 50 round break-in period. Then see how it shoots with some load testing. I do, however, recommend an immediate trigger swap, as the factory triggers are horrendous.

The picture in my avatar was 24 shots in a row (no break) with my 5R Milspec .308 Win the first time out. I put the first 50 shots down it for break-in (5-shot groups, then letting it cool), then groups started getting consistent and settling in. Then I shot that group with shots 76-100 down the barrel.

Another group I shot with it...

View attachment 95529
So does the AWR fall into this criteria?
 
So does the AWR fall into this criteria?
I have never owned, held, or even seen an AWR rifle. So I have no idea.

However, the AWR .300WM has a 5R-rifled 1:10 twist barrel. And the 5R Milspec .300WM has a 5R-rifled 1:10 twist barrel. Barrel tooling is VERY expensive (regardless wither it's cut-rifling, button-rifling, or CHF - Cold Hammer Forging). So I would imagine that they are the same as the 5R Milspec, but turned-down to a magnum sporter contour. However, that is speculation, but knowing that barrel tooling is SUPER expensive, I don't see Remington buying tooling for a different .30 caliber 5R-rifled barrel with a 1:10 twist... So, just going by that info, I would take a SWAG and say there's a very good possibility they are one in the same...

Your best bet would be to contact Remington and ask them do they use the same barrel blanks or CHF barrel tooling for both the 5R Milspec and AWR rifles in .300WM. That would be one definitive way to solve the mystery. And I, for one, would be interested to hear the outcome. So, if you do call Remington and ask them, please post up what they say.
 
Last edited:
My opinion is stick with a Rem 700. I have had full customs built and they are no better than the 700, if you have the right person do the work. I had Chad Dixon, LRI do my last 700 and it came out great. Action is smooth as glass and it shoots sub 1/2 MOA all day long. You don't need the bolt fluted, or over-sized bolt knob, or barrel fluting, etc. to make the rifle accurate. Add this as you save up more money.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top