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Rifle blueing fix

Heat and complete removal of grease and oil are the difference between "cold blues don't work" and a good match to the original bluing.

I use a $16 HF heat gun for larger areas. If you have a wife or daughter in the household there's likely a hair dryer around for something the size of your project. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner in a spray can is a good degreaser.

Degrease first, then heat. I wear nitrile gloves for this kinda work. Many cold blues contain unhealthy chemicals that can penetrate your skin.
Thanks for your advice. Hair dryer, no problem, nitrile gloves, no problem, brake cleaner, no problem. I'm gonna go to work on it as soon as I get it. I just bought it on gunbroker, and with Thanksgiving this week, probably won't get it until next week.
 
This is temporary...............but if there are pits, you can fill them with a black crayon. Use a piece of cotton to wipe it off. Looks good.
 
I have had great luck with this, rather than steel wool:


I then finish with the Oxpho-Blue as others have noted.
 
Kroll oil (let it soak a bit) and really fine steel wool should clean it nicely.
It won't be perfect, but a cold blue should fine.
About the hot blue to refinish the barrel; only is a negative if you have a truly collectable rifle. In almost all cases, collectors prefer the original finish no matter the condition. Generally, rifle shooters are as not as constrained. If you like the rifle and plan to keep it, do what you want. Please remember that the blueing is not just a color, but a finish that also protects the metal. Worn blueing exposes the the metal to more oxidation (rust) and discoloration. That is why I had my upland SxS shotgun re-blued a few years ago. It
 
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