Rifle blueing fix

[Hard rock]

The pic below shows the rust in question. Tommytrees, I'll try the penny thing and see if it works. If not, then I'm gonna do the steel wool and oil, followed by the oxpho-blue cream. Thank you

Try the steel wool I've done it hundreds of times just make sore it's at least as fine as 3-0 or 4-0 with a little oil that rifle is high polished so stay in the area your working I have used it on high polish ivy made some fine scratches once by using too coarse of steel wool you shouldn't have a problem with 3 or 4 -0 Brownell Paste blue works pretty well you might put several applications on it the Steel wool might get 99 percent of the rust off good luck

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

The pic below shows the rust in question. Tommytrees, I'll try the penny thing and see if it works. If not, then I'm gonna do the steel wool and oil, followed by the oxpho-blue cream. Thank you

That's a little more than surface rust, it is pitting. If it was me I would try some chemical rust remover and try to keep just on the rust. Don't make the area bigger than needed. Then use a 600, 800, 1,000 grit emory along with 0000 steel wool. Then clean/degrease. Use this Bluing pen. Every coat you do will make it darker so you can control it. When you get to where you want then take 0000 steel wool and "Blend" it in to the original bluing. I found that this works for small areas to fix bluing. I have done many rifles and pistols with minor rust/wear and you can't tell the fixes. I would also use a bore scope to check the inside of the barrel at you muzzel. You may have rust/pitting inside.

 

[SteveLM]

Another vote for fine steel wool and oil. My suggestion is that you only use 0000 (4-0) steel wool and a dense oil such as motor oil... and don't be afraid to really saturate the steel wool with the oil. Work slowly and carefully and don't put too much pressure on the steel wool (rub longer rather than harder). I also agree with Coyote that there's likely to be some noticeable pitting, so retouching the bluing will be necessary. Good luck.

 

[shortgrass]

Any time you see rust there are pits underneath! Where do you think the rust came from? The rust is the oxidized metal that used to be in those pits!

 

[brguide]

Check out Steel F/X. They have some cool items and processes.

 

[Deanocraft]

This guy has some good videos related to restoring rusted firearms. Although I have not personally tried the boiling, it appears he gets good results.

 

[3chester]

Well ya can't blue over rust. So best thing with that rig is a new sheet of 3M 320 silicon carbide paper. Tear off a small piece of that paper, N fold er over til ya have a nice size to fit where ur working on that sight,barrel rusD spot.Dampen a paper towel with water and keep wiping away the sanded off rust.the small affected area should be bare metal shiny clean. Use clean sandpaper.Use an alcohol wipe to make the area to blueD, and a bit of the surrounding area , oil free. Then Brownell's Dicropan T-4, or their 44/40. just let it set for 5minutes, wipe it off with clean water. Repeat several times with the blue and it'll match a Ruger 77 perfectly. When ur close to color, 4/0 steel wool it a bit . when you like the blue/black match, oil it well, and no one will ever be the wiser.

 

[KS2506]

No emery unless it is pitted. Get some Hoppes No. 9 and if you can stand the gun up in a cup or bowl, let it soak for several days. Then use 4 Ought steel wool. I can tell you from experience, that front sight band is not coming off, unless heated, or cut off.

 

[RCMSTER]

No emery unless it is pitted. Get some Hoppes No. 9 and if you can stand the gun up in a cup or bowl, let it soak for several days. Then use 4 Ought steel wool. I can tell you from experience, that front sight band is not coming off, unless heated, or cut off.

I dont want the front sight off. It's part of the reason I bought the rifle. There's not many roundtop 77's in 257 roberts.

 

[bigbrad53]

For small spots I use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.Get rust off and degrease well.Even a tiny speck of oil will ruin the cold blue.
Then using a small torch heat up the spot and apply Oxpho-Blue and let it sit until it dries.Do that over and over until it looks close and your done.Have done that many times

Me to. many times. Have even done barreled actions.

 

[RCMSTER]

Me to. many times. Have even done barreled actions.

I think this is the route I'm going. Sounds like I'll get the best results like this.

 

[Teri Anne]

For small spots I use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.Get rust off and degrease well.Even a tiny speck of oil will ruin the cold blue.
Then using a small torch heat up the spot and apply Oxpho-Blue and let it sit until it dries.Do that over and over until it looks close and your done.Have done that many times

I have done this and it does work. Takes a lot of scrubbing but it does work.

 

[UncleDano]

Try Blue Wonder Gun Blue Kit and some Stainless-steel wool, this is the best I've tried so far.
Repeated application gets it darker. I think it works much better that Oxpho-blue.
The coarse curls of the stainless-steel will remove the rust without removing the existing blue. (Brownell's sells a "stainless steel sponge")
You can use a hair dryer, it will get it hot enough for the blue job.

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[SWHandldr]

Thank you. I didnt think about heating before applying cold blue.

Heat and complete removal of grease and oil are the difference between "cold blues don't work" and a good match to the original bluing.

I use a $16 HF heat gun for larger areas. If you have a wife or daughter in the household there's likely a hair dryer around for something the size of your project. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner in a spray can is a good degreaser.

Degrease first, then heat. I wear nitrile gloves for this kinda work. Many cold blues contain unhealthy chemicals that can penetrate your skin.