I'm using a Whidden full length bushing die to resize my 6.5 GAP 4S brass. The sample case in the picture had been fired 3 times and the only thing I did differently was anneal prior to resizing. My process was to deprime brass, clean for a short time (1.5-2 hours) in STM tumbler, anneal, resize, run for a while in a Lyman tumbler to get the Imperial wax was off, and trim. Being the observant fellow I am, I didn't even notice the necks until after all this was completed. I just wiped the inside of the bushing with a dry paper towel but could still see faint streaks. Put some Bore Tech copper cleaner on a Q-Tip, cleaned again and inside seems shiny again (swab was faint blue). Could the streaks have been caused by the stainless media dinging up the mouth of the cases and small bits of brass being sheared off in the bushing? If so, I wonder why this didn't happened before? Annealing have anything to do with it? I know that I don't even come close to "over annealing". Are these safe to shoot? I'm using a .289 bushing and loaded neck size is .292. Have used a .291 but didn't seem like enough tension. The .289 gives me .002 neck tension. Appreciate any thoughts on this.....
Ridges on Case Necks
- Thread starter jraulsten
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dok7mm
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I've seen this on various bushing setups. Don't know if it's a rough bushing or softer necks from annealing, that cause it.
bigedp51
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I do not anneal but have had the same thing happen after wet tumbling with SS media.
I think you are correct about the case mouth peening and brass sticking to the transition area at the mouth of the bushing and neck shoulder junction of full length dies. What you are seeing is brass rubbing on brass on your case necks.
I polished the bushing ends and the shoulder neck junction of my full length dies. And trim and deburr the case mouths after wet tumbling. This solved my marks on the case necks.
Below on the left is a case that was wet tumbled too long, and is badly peened. On the right is a new factory case right out of the bag. The peening at the case mouth is like driving a metal stake into the ground and the end mushrooming. And the thinner ends break off and end up sticking in the die or bushing.
I also had this happen on carbide pistol dies to a lesser degree. And went back to vibratory tumbling with walnut media because most pistol cases are never trimmed.
I think you are correct about the case mouth peening and brass sticking to the transition area at the mouth of the bushing and neck shoulder junction of full length dies. What you are seeing is brass rubbing on brass on your case necks.
I polished the bushing ends and the shoulder neck junction of my full length dies. And trim and deburr the case mouths after wet tumbling. This solved my marks on the case necks.
Below on the left is a case that was wet tumbled too long, and is badly peened. On the right is a new factory case right out of the bag. The peening at the case mouth is like driving a metal stake into the ground and the end mushrooming. And the thinner ends break off and end up sticking in the die or bushing.
I also had this happen on carbide pistol dies to a lesser degree. And went back to vibratory tumbling with walnut media because most pistol cases are never trimmed.
Lonewolf74
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I do not anneal but have had the same thing happen after wet tumbling with SS media.
I think you are correct about the case mouth peening and brass sticking to the transition area at the mouth of the bushing and neck shoulder junction of full length dies. What you are seeing is brass rubbing on brass on your case necks.
I polished the bushing ends and the shoulder neck junction of my full length dies. And trim and deburr the case mouths after wet tumbling. This solved my marks on the case necks.
Below on the left is a case that was wet tumbled too long, and is badly peened. On the right is a new factory case right out of the bag. The peening at the case mouth is like driving a metal stake into the ground and the end mushrooming. And the thinner ends break off and end up sticking in the die or bushing.
I also had this happen on carbide pistol dies to a lesser degree. And went back to vibratory tumbling with walnut media because most pistol cases are never trimmed.
BigEd, not meaning to hyjack but how do you polish the neck and shoulder of a FL die (non bushing Forster).
I've thought about doing this many times but am afraid to throw something out of whack if I'm too aggressive.
Thank you, sir. I will definitely start chamfering the outside of the case mouth before I resize from now on. I think that may eliminate the problem.I do not anneal but have had the same thing happen after wet tumbling with SS media.
I think you are correct about the case mouth peening and brass sticking to the transition area at the mouth of the bushing and neck shoulder junction of full length dies. What you are seeing is brass rubbing on brass on your case necks.
I polished the bushing ends and the shoulder neck junction of my full length dies. And trim and deburr the case mouths after wet tumbling. This solved my marks on the case necks.
Below on the left is a case that was wet tumbled too long, and is badly peened. On the right is a new factory case right out of the bag. The peening at the case mouth is like driving a metal stake into the ground and the end mushrooming. And the thinner ends break off and end up sticking in the die or bushing.
I also had this happen on carbide pistol dies to a lesser degree. And went back to vibratory tumbling with walnut media because most pistol cases are never trimmed.
Thanks, Bravo 4.
I was a little worried about shooting it but it chambers just fine even with a bullet seated.
bigedp51
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I use a snug fitting shotgun cleaning mop and J&B Bore Paste, automotive rubbing compound, Mothers Mag & Wheel Polish, etc. If this is not aggressive enough you can use fine wet and dry sandpaper. You will see assortment packs from 400 to 2000 grit that will work fine. The dies are heat treated and hardened and it will take a lot of sanding to change any dimensions.
The rounded mouth of the bushings can be rough compared to the inner surface. And the neck shoulder junction of the full length dies can have burrs and pick up brass.
It might be my imagination but it seems the newer dies are not polished as well as older dies. But I also never had this problem until I started wet tumbling with SS media. And trimming the cases and deburring solves the problem. I now have a timer on my wet tumbler and set it for one hour and weigh the brass as per the instructions. Meaning if you over fill the tumbler it takes longer to clean the brass. And this pounds the case mouths more and peens the case mouth.
TwoMore
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Both of my whidden sets did the same thing. when I called them He told me to just polish the neck-shoulder area with the bushing in it with 1500, that did the trick. It didnt take much just a few seconds.
Lonewolf74
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Ok so you put the bore mop on a drill to polish? How do you run the sandpaper?
I could see the sandpaper not really forming to the case neck n shoulder area and only hitting the ridges from the neck, shoulder, body junctions.
I could see the sandpaper not really forming to the case neck n shoulder area and only hitting the ridges from the neck, shoulder, body junctions.
TwoMore
Well-Known Member
I used a wooden dowel and taped it to it, and a cordless drill there was just a very small edge that needed a bit more polishing up there that was grabbing brass
