I'm a big believer in the KISS principle... and keeping it simple works great for me!Mine is 0 at 100 yds and that is where my zero stop is set. If my target is closer than 100 yds then I can hold low and be ok most of the time
I'm a big believer in the KISS principle... and keeping it simple works great for me!Mine is 0 at 100 yds and that is where my zero stop is set. If my target is closer than 100 yds then I can hold low and be ok most of the time
If you think about that, we are back to a scope that does not track well, not returning to zero is failure.I have read that some guys like to be able to dial down past zero for carry and storage and then always dial up when shooting to negate any preloaded tension on the dialing system. Not sure if there's anything to that or not??
I believe this is how internet lore works. If enough people or certain people say something then a lot of people believe it without experiencing it themselves. Take what Alex Wheeler posts. I like to refer to them as fact bombs. Many people on this forum get caught up in internet babble and he comes in with actual real world experience and fills them in. He doesn't waste time tumbling brass, cleaning necks, annealing, etc. and his results speak for themselves.I have read that some guys like to be able to dial down past zero for carry and storage and then always dial up when shooting to negate any preloaded tension on the dialing system.
You are a smart man.I'm a big believer in the KISS principle...
I found a video where the guy sets the zero stop past the 0 mark on the dial which I would assuming is also his rifle's zero and he mentions pre-loading tension as the reason. Watch at minute mark 3:48...If you think about that, we are back to a scope that does not track well, not returning to zero is failure.
Internet lore is an epidemic!!I believe this is how internet lore works. If enough people or certain people say something then a lot of people believe it without experiencing it themselves. Take what Alex Wheeler posts. I like to refer to them as fact bombs. Many people on this forum get caught up in internet babble and he comes in with actual real world experience and fills them in. He doesn't waste time tumbling brass, cleaning necks, annealing, etc. and his results speak for themselves.
You are a smart man.
Makes sense to me. I just don't like the idea of having to count clicks or look at my turret more than once when dialing up... once to dial up to my zero and then again to dial up to my range. But I get the idea of not having to move your zero stop depending on where you're shooting. Like most things pros and cons each way. I'm going to set my zero stop at "0" corresponding it to my rifle's 200yd zero.I don't do it for tension, I do it because I hunt multiple states and multiple elevations.
The way I set my turret and zero stop insure I never have to move my zero stop.
But I occasionally have to move my turret at a new location for a precise zero, especially on new rifles where the zero moves slightly for the first 100-200 rounds.
As far as I'm concerned this is keeping it simple.
I have a 200 yard zero, my rangefinder matches my 200 yard zero.
If I have a close shot I can dial down for precision.
It doesn't seem that complicated to me but to each their own.
I lookWell...... there are ways to mount scope and have it optically centered, or very close to center.First step is to mt. scope shoot weapon.Then move scope body/reticle to bullet hole.
By using 2 methods.
1) Burris signature rings. If a few .000?,S off it will correct it.
2) Bed or machine rings.....If off a lot.
The value of how accurate you correct is somewhat debatable.
However...... by attempting this goal you are at least realizing more of scope potential adjustments.....