Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
A 1/2-28 thread will work over a 338 but a 9/16 would be best. With a little Loctite a guy could even put a 5/8 thread over .640. There will not be much shoulder to tighten up against but it would be enough to bump for clocking and then Loctite would do the work. You just need to find a guy known for extremely fine machine work. If you find a guy who insists on cutting his threads to a relief run fast and run far. When every thousandths of metal counts that relief will really weaken a brake installation. Ask for examples of his threads. Smooth high quality threads help with strength over chattered rough finishes.
I would avoid a clamp on at all costs. Time you get it tight enough to stay it will crimp your bore. I really question their ability to get the interior clamping surface at the same taper as the outside of your barrel. Without a perfect taper fit it has to distort the bore.
Holes all the way around liker the KDF or Weatherby Accubrake work very well but at the expense of blowing dirt all over the rifle and shooter in the prone position. I like the CSR side discharge brakes. We use them on 95% of all our builds.
I would avoid a clamp on at all costs. Time you get it tight enough to stay it will crimp your bore. I really question their ability to get the interior clamping surface at the same taper as the outside of your barrel. Without a perfect taper fit it has to distort the bore.
Holes all the way around liker the KDF or Weatherby Accubrake work very well but at the expense of blowing dirt all over the rifle and shooter in the prone position. I like the CSR side discharge brakes. We use them on 95% of all our builds.
