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Rem UML stock replacement options?

ENCORE, never mind. I googled it and got all the information I needed. I think my pony will be just fine. If I was hunting out west where there's some big country, then yeah, I could see where it would be worth the cost, but for deer hunting here in Iowa, not so much, but thanks anyway.
 
Could you give some more info on this breech plug? Where can I get one? What advantage does it offer over the factory plug? What do they cost? On another note, that McMillan stock sure looks good. I have 2 of them, one on my 375 ruger and one on my 264 win mag. Guess I never thought about that option. You're right about that video. The muzzle didn't even budge. Lordy. At one time i had talked to Bob Parker of Parker bullets. He sent me a pic of a 5" group he shot at 500 yards with his 700 UML, using 173 grains of blackthorn and one of his bullets, but i can't remember which one. I used his bullets for one season. They shot good, but when my daughter shot her deer with his bullet, it exploded into a whole bunch of pieces. I bet we dug at least a dozen bits of bullet out when we butchered that deer. I've since went to federal bor-loks, and couldn't be happier.

Arrowhead Sporting Goods, ASG. http://arrowheadsporting.com/asggen2_uml.html

The factory plug can have head space issues, but making it worse is the PP brass that is used. The brass case fits on the nipple and must fit tight for a good seal. Problem with the Remington brass is, that the brass case head thickness can be up to .020" in difference. Example only...…….. if a case with a head thickness of say .200" creates the perfect seal between the case and the nipple, what happens when the next case is .180"? The overall length of the brass case means nothing. Only the thickness of the brass head or web matters. Then some of the cases are known to have the inside flash hole up to .010" off center.
Then you have Remington, who even though they know about the brass and head space issues, have yet to step up and fix the issues. With everyone wanting to shoot Blackhorn 209 (BH209), they started shooting it in the RUM and gas cut to many breech plug nipples, so, Remington stopped warranting breech plugs that were known to have used BH209.
So Luke decided to help out both the RUM and UF owners by creating a breech plug that would not leak, was much stronger than the OEM plug and the best, it doesn't gas cut when shooting BH 209. It without question, is the best investment that any RUM or UF owner can make for their rifle.
Great bullets are expensive. No way around that. The Ballistic Extreme when sent fast, can do exactly as you explained. The Match Hunter, is designed more for the velocities obtained when shooting smokeless propellants. As I understand it, the new Parker Black Max is an outstanding hunting bullet for non-smokeless velocities.

The rifles will shoot no doubt. I have one 5-shot group at 400yds which measures 1.5". My first attempt at 500yds, was a 3-shot group that measured 1.873", witnessed and signed target. Both targets shot with 180grs of T7 and a 300gr SST!
 
Way good and interesting information ENCORE. One thing I have noticed with the remington brass, is that every single time I've pulled the trigger, the primer backs out of the pocket about a quarter of the depth of the primer. Doesn't matter whether it's new brass or repriced brass, whether I've shot 160 grains of Blackhorn or 120 grains of Black MZ. I've only found about 3 bullet/a bit combos that will shoot decent in my 700UML. The remington bullet with the green sabot, the parker bullet with their supplied black sabot, and the federal bor-lok with no sabot. I've tried the hornady sst's with their red sabot, with less than stellar results, Thompson center bullets and their sabots, and the tipped barnes with their sabot. None of them shot very impressive. Dont know if that's me, or just the nature of the rifle. Co.e spring, I may investigate that breach plug swap. You've made some pretty compelling arguments to do so, whether I need to or not.
 
Way good and interesting information ENCORE. One thing I have noticed with the remington brass, is that every single time I've pulled the trigger, the primer backs out of the pocket about a quarter of the depth of the primer. Doesn't matter whether it's new brass or repriced brass, whether I've shot 160 grains of Blackhorn or 120 grains of Black MZ. I've only found about 3 bullet/a bit combos that will shoot decent in my 700UML. The remington bullet with the green sabot, the parker bullet with their supplied black sabot, and the federal bor-lok with no sabot. I've tried the hornady sst's with their red sabot, with less than stellar results, Thompson center bullets and their sabots, and the tipped barnes with their sabot. None of them shot very impressive. Dont know if that's me, or just the nature of the rifle. Co.e spring, I may investigate that breach plug swap. You've made some pretty compelling arguments to do so, whether I need to or not.

This is fact...……. if your primers are backing out of the cases, you have a head space problem. No two ways about it. A good gunsmith could set that barrel back some and help with that, but not fix the brass problems. The REAL fix, is the AGS Gen2 breech plug.
I'm very well aware of how these rifles operate. I'm friends with the owner of UF Inc, who invented the system. Remington purchased the rights to the ignition system from Ken.

There is a way to keep the OEM breech plug, but it takes more **** work than any man, or woman, should ever have to involve themselves with.
If you were to find the thinnest head on a piece of brass, you can have your head space set to that specific piece of brass. This becomes your pilot. However...…… any other brass with a thicker head will not allow you to close the bolt. So here's where all the work comes in.... you have to trim every brass case to the exact same length. Once the cases are trimmed, including your pilot case, you have to use a reamer for the inside of the case on the primer flash hole. You set the depth using the depth of the pilot case. Then ……. every case...… has to be reamed by hand.

I went through that with about 1,200 pieces of brass one winter. That was enough of that BS. It will allow you to reuse your brass cases a couple times more, but its just not worth all the work getting it right.

Your Remington brass, as I stated can vary up to .020" in head thickness. That is a LOT! I was lucky using Starline brass, as it only varies .005".

AGS Gen2 breech plug all the way and all problems solved.
 
Here's one.... what primers do you guys use to reprise the rem brass? What about keeping moisture out of the primer when it's not sealed off because it's exposed due to the open ended brass?
 
Well dang it, that kind of irritates me. Not that you told me ENCORE, but that right after I bought the gun new and noticed that problem, I contacted remington about it, and they gave me some phony story about how it was nothing to worry about and was in fact, rather normal. Guess my but ain't smoke proof after all, because they sure blew that story right up my backside. Yep. That seals it. Definitely gonna do the breech plug swap in the spring. Thank you ENCORE to enlightening me to a problem that I didn't know I had. I'm gonna take a SWAG and assume that after I change the breech plug, and get the headspace right, that the rifle is gonna shoot better. That's just freaking amazing.
 
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Here's one.... what primers do you guys use to reprise the rem brass? What about keeping moisture out of the primer when it's not sealed off because it's exposed due to the open ended brass?
I use winchester magnum large rifle primers, but now, after being enlightened by ENCORE about a headspace problem that I have, that I didn't know I had, I guess be rethinking my plans. I always keep 3 primers under the hinges floor plate. Never had a problem with moisture or misfires so far.
 
Technically you can use any large rifle primer, but the recommended are the magnum primers. I have always used Federal 215M large rifle Match primers. Among the UF shooters, these are coveted primers because of their consistency. When you find them, buy the whole case. I think I have 3,000 setting on the bench :)

As far as moisture, I've been shooting the UF for over 5 years and only hunt with a muzzleloader. I just throw 3 pieces of brass in my hunting coat pocket and have never had an issue with ignition. For sabot/bullet and 3 T7M pellets, I use Lane's tubes. Drop the bullet in the sabot, inside the tube, drop in the 3 pellets and screw on the lid. Perfect seal and you can drop them in the water and the inside will remain dry.

Guys, keep a very good eye on your spent cases. The inside of each piece of brass requires a visual inspection each time its fired. If its completely clean inside, then that's a good thing. If its dirty inside, then its leaking gas and shouldn't be used again.

Here's what to look for:

100_4791b.jpg
 
Encore, you said your conversion will allow you to shoot both smokeless and blackthorn?
The new .45 conversion will allow both. So yes.
I'll be shooting more BH through it than smokeless. Michigan doesn't allow the use of smokeless propellant during the dedicated muzzleloader seasons. During the general season and north of the limited rifle zone, smokeless would be legal.
 
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