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Rem 700 receiver dirty

Easiest way I have found to clean the chamber is to hose it out with Bore Scrubber. I had a 790 and couldn't close the bolt. Used the Bore Scrubber and solved the problem. Probably had a small purse of brass or othe debris in it.
How would you" hose down"
 
I would clean that white junk out with half-Q-Tips dipped in Hoppe's 9. I hold the Q-Tip with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Works great. Chambers and bore I just use a rod and patches.
 
That's what my gunsmith suggests
The gouge marks on your brass are not caused by the feed lips in the magazine box. The gouges/scratches are caused by a very sharp edge on the underside of the action rails.

I had exactly the same problem with a 308 700 BDL. I might still have the photos and documentation covering the processes I went through to prove to Remington that I had a problem. It was to the UK distributor as I had to work through them. I can supply this if you wish.



They conceded that this was a problem and asked me to send the rifle in for repair. I asked what they intended to fo to rectify the problem.

There was no way in the world I was going to let anyone lose with files and grinding stones on a rifle of mine!

I got them to agree that I would polish the tails myself and if this did not resolve the problem they would replace the rifle.

I used a small fine polishing stone to polish the underside of the rails. The idea is to polish the sharp square edge off the underside of the rail. You do not want to remove too much material from the rails as you will affect how you rifle feeds from the magazine and induce slop(more slop) into the action/bolt slide.

Be very careful with the stone and fine file if you decide to use them. They can easily cause damage and unsightly marks all over the place. Remove the barrelled action from the stock and plug the chamber with a cloth.

The rifle feeds really well and smooth now and my cases remain unmarked. Imo rifles should not mark the cases!

Sorry for the long post. PM if you would like any more info or help

Duncan
 
The gouge marks on your brass are not caused by the feed lips in the magazine box. The gouges/scratches are caused by a very sharp edge on the underside of the action rails.

I had exactly the same problem with a 308 700 BDL. I might still have the photos and documentation covering the processes I went through to prove to Remington that I had a problem. It was to the UK distributor as I had to work through them. I can supply this if you wish.



They conceded that this was a problem and asked me to send the rifle in for repair. I asked what they intended to fo to rectify the problem.

There was no way in the world I was going to let anyone lose with files and grinding stones on a rifle of mine!

I got them to agree that I would polish the tails myself and if this did not resolve the problem they would replace the rifle.

I used a small fine polishing stone to polish the underside of the rails. The idea is to polish the sharp square edge off the underside of the rail. You do not want to remove too much material from the rails as you will affect how you rifle feeds from the magazine and induce slop(more slop) into the action/bolt slide.

Be very careful with the stone and fine file if you decide to use them. They can easily cause damage and unsightly marks all over the place. Remove the barrelled action from the stock and plug the chamber with a cloth.

The rifle feeds really well and smooth now and my cases remain unmarked. Imo rifles should not mark the cases!

Sorry for the long post. PM if you would like any more info or help

Duncan
Wow thanks for long post
 
Every 'new' to you firearm should be thoroughly cleaned before you take it out for your first range session, period. Soaking a plugged bore with solvent is inviting problems. Just clean it with a good bore cleaner and give it a light coating of oil before storing. Run a couple of dry patches to dry the bore of oil before shooting it. The chamber and bore need to be clean and dry before chambering a round and firing it.

^^^This!^^^.
 
Every 'new' to you firearm should be thoroughly cleaned before you take it out for your first range session, period. Soaking a plugged bore with solvent is inviting problems. Just clean it with a good bore cleaner and give it a light coating of oil before storing. Run a couple of dry patches to dry the bore of oil before shooting it. The chamber and bore need to be clean and dry before chambering a round and firing it.

How do you define a good bore cleaner? What is available to you may not be available to the OP. Mild bore solvents such as hoppes products have been proved to be exceptionally safe and gentle at removing years worth of fouling when soaking for hours or a full day with zero harm to the bore. They are also widely available and inexpensive. They require little more than some patience to be effective. Instant gratification usually provides the harshest side effects... The newer "good bore cleaners" are very harsh and most warn against leaving in the bore longer than a few minutes up to 15 minutes for something like Sweets 7.62
 
How do you define a good bore cleaner? What is available to you may not be available to the OP. Mild bore solvents such as hoppes products have been proved to be exceptionally safe and gentle at removing years worth of fouling when soaking for hours or a full day with zero harm to the bore. They are also widely available and inexpensive. They require little more than some patience to be effective. Instant gratification usually provides the harshest side effects... The newer "good bore cleaners" are very harsh and most warn against leaving in the bore longer than a few minutes up to 15 minutes for something like Sweets 7.62
I have hopped available here
 
How do you define a good bore cleaner? What is available to you may not be available to the OP. Mild bore solvents such as hoppes products have been proved to be exceptionally safe and gentle at removing years worth of fouling when soaking for hours or a full day with zero harm to the bore. They are also widely available and inexpensive. They require little more than some patience to be effective. Instant gratification usually provides the harshest side effects... The newer "good bore cleaners" are very harsh and most warn against leaving in the bore longer than a few minutes up to 15 minutes for something like Sweets 7.62
I had a customer that plugged the bore of his T/C Contender 14", 44 Mag barrel on the chamber end and filled it up with Hoppes #9. 5-6hrs later some of the solvent had apparently evaporated and the muzzle end was heavily pitted. It was pitted so bad, that 2" was cut from the muzzle end and the barrel recrowned, and the front site remounted. Plugging 1 end of a barrel and filling it with any solvent is a dumb idea! I don't have any Hoppes in my shop. I use Wipe-Out unless I have a barrel come in that is very heavily coppered and then out comes the Sweets. The OP of this thread really doesn't need a 'solvent', all he needs is to wipe the inside good and make sure its dry before firing it,,,, its a new barrel. But, later after he does need a solvent I would NOT recommend Hoppes, horse ****$ might be better! I'd choose one of the others and follow the directions. I say this with 30yrs of bench experience. I even bothered to graduate from MCCs 2 yr gunsmithing program, and at the top of my class I might add. I see more firearms that people have done stupid things to in a month than most see in their life time!
 
I had a customer that plugged the bore of his T/C Contender 14", 44 Mag barrel on the chamber end and filled it up with Hoppes #9. 5-6hrs later some of the solvent had apparently evaporated and the muzzle end was heavily pitted. It was pitted so bad, that 2" was cut from the muzzle end and the barrel recrowned, and the front site remounted. Plugging 1 end of a barrel and filling it with any solvent is a dumb idea! I don't have any Hoppes in my shop. I use Wipe-Out unless I have a barrel come in that is very heavily coppered and then out comes the Sweets. The OP of this thread really doesn't need a 'solvent', all he needs is to wipe the inside good and make sure its dry before firing it,,,, its a new barrel. But, later after he does need a solvent I would NOT recommend Hoppes, horse ****$ might be better! I'd choose one of the others and follow the directions. I say this with 30yrs of bench experience. I even bothered to graduate from MCCs 2 yr gunsmithing program, and at the top of my class I might add. I see more firearms that people have done stupid things to in a month than most see in their life time!

Well said. I'm surprised by your TC Contender experience. Of course I would be surprised by any reputable barrel mfr's product having that experience. I've never seen such a corrosive issue from any Hoppes but then I've only been motivated to soak a few times and have read others relating good experience soaking heavily fouled barrels. I thought the OP said the gun was bought used. My mistake???
 
I'm having a hard time thinking that basic Hoppe's could do that. Maybe their later bore solvent, but even HCL takes longer than overnight to do that kind of damage to steel. Based on my own experiences behind the counter I'm going to guess an embarrassed customer who couldn't/wouldn't admit to what they really used or for how long. I've seen that too many times to count.

That said, a simple wiping of the action's interior and a dry patch pushed thru the bore should be good enough.
 
I lived in 7 different African countries during the 20 years from 1970 to 1990, and although I made it to what was then called the Republic of South Africa, I never got to Namibia. I've read lots of interesting stories of the country, though.

I'm in the group that thinks the scratches on the brass might be caused by the rails at the top of the magazine. Without changing the dimensions (which would affect how cartridges feed), I'm thinking a light touch with some fine emery paper (400 grit or finer) would end that problem.
 
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