A lot of good advice. I like my rock chucker. A couple of things I would add to the list is the Hornady headspace and bullet comparator set. In the beginning keep it simple. There will be plenty of rabbit holes you can go down later. You can make good hunting ammo with a regular full length die set.
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FireFlyFishing
Well-Known Member
Plenty of good info on the thread thus far. In the interest of brevity, I won't repeat what has been previously mentioned.
I will say…typically "you get what you pay for," when it comes to reloading. I suggest getting the best equipment you can afford. This will save you time…and really, money down the road.
Since you are new to the forum, learn to use the search function on this and other forums. There is a wealth of information that has been discussed over and over on previous threads. If you can't find what you're looking for, start a new thread!
Good luck. And remember, you're not getting into reloading to save money!
I will say…typically "you get what you pay for," when it comes to reloading. I suggest getting the best equipment you can afford. This will save you time…and really, money down the road.
Since you are new to the forum, learn to use the search function on this and other forums. There is a wealth of information that has been discussed over and over on previous threads. If you can't find what you're looking for, start a new thread!
Good luck. And remember, you're not getting into reloading to save money!
I have always liked the turret style press. I started my reloading journey with a Hornady LnL Progressive for pistol cartridges mainly. I did a little 223 loading, but mostly 9mm for local competition. When I got interested in rifle reloading, I picked up a Lyman All-American 8. 8 postion head. I usually have 3 calibers, a dedicated deprimer and mandrel expander. The latter 2 move from head to head with me. When I am Sizing, I can size, minus the expander ball and deprimer, flip the head to my mandrel and set the neck where I want it. YMMV, but this is my way.
wilehunting
Well-Known Member
Personally, I would just buy factory ammunition unless there is nothing available in the cartridge you want from the any of the factory manufacturers. SAAMI made the 280ai a recognized cartridge. It's not like it used to be when I reloaded for my 7mm Remington Mag to use Nosler partitions. Until you buy everything you need and go back and forth to the range working up loads, it's really not practical. Most likely you won't be able to top the velocity of a factory load. Accuracy maybe but probably not velocity. I own a chronograph. I liked the Hornady dies with longer expansion"ball", I neck sized to have the best chamber fit of previously fired cases, I liked the micrometer bullet seater. Reloading can be enjoyable, don't get me wrong, but it takes time.
6.5x300 WBY
Well-Known Member
Exactly this. I followed suit on my pursuits too and also ended up with an A&D and left all doubt about precision scales.
So MO,
1. Get several reloading manuals. Example. Nosler, Hornady, Sierra, Berger
2. Digital Calipers. Just get good one to start with and don't go through what I did. Can't highly recommend MITITOYO calipers enough. I suffered with lower quality calipers for years. My cheaper ones never gave consistent numbers the only consistent thing they did was be very Inconsistent. MY MITITOYO are consistent every time every day. I do consider this a necessity.
3. Scale get a good one off the bat. It's going to be expensive yes. But it's worth it. When I got my A&D I did an experiment testing my cheaper scale against my A&D. Well let's just say it was off up to and including 1.2 grains. Also cheaper scales aren't consistent where my A&D just is simply stupid consistent. But you don't have to do the A&D. There are cheaper good scales out there. It's just another variable and rabbit hole that is part of the process.
4. BRASS. Read here for about 2 minutes on this site and you instantly know brass is a huge deal. Get the best brass you can for a cartridge you shoot. Me,I consider Alpha brass the best followed by Lapua. Then there is the rest. Not that the rest aren't very good. Peterson and ADG make great brass which they do. Alpha then Lapua for me.
5. Components yikes this one is tuff. There is a great thread on here which I can't remember the name but it was for REAL BUSINESSES that aren't scammed trying to steal your money. I am sure someone will be able to remember that one, as I am getting older and memory is not as sharp. Lol. But scammers are out there in force. Trust many of us they are out there.
6. Presses. You could go single stage if you want but a goid Turret press is just more versatile over a single stage.
After I got my Redding Turret WITH UPGRADED HEAD FROM CREEDMOOR SPORTS I couldn't be happier. I still have my RCBS single stage summit press which I also love but my Turret from creedmoor sports is just a much more versatile easier, faster press to use. I Highly highly HIGHLY recommended it.
This is getting long my apologies best of luck and
Welcome from NJ
6.5x300 WBY
Well-Known Member
Oh boy ain't that the truth
Then this happens lmao
Attachments
I would have to agree with 6.5x300 weatherby on the turret press. I started out with a single stage press and quickly wanted something faster for handgun cartridges.
I've been a tool & die/ machinist for over 30 years and buying cheap measuring tools will always give you poor measurements and leave you guessing. If you take care of you equipment they will last a life time vs buying cheap tool's over and over when they break. I don't know so much about the kits they always seem to be lacking.
I would prefer to buy single items when I could afford them and not stick to one brand.
Once you start reloading it's a neverending rabbit hole and always looking for components.
I enjoy testing and experimenting with my hand loads and then wondering needlessly about what combination I should hunt with. Good luck with your endeavors.
I've been a tool & die/ machinist for over 30 years and buying cheap measuring tools will always give you poor measurements and leave you guessing. If you take care of you equipment they will last a life time vs buying cheap tool's over and over when they break. I don't know so much about the kits they always seem to be lacking.
I would prefer to buy single items when I could afford them and not stick to one brand.
Once you start reloading it's a neverending rabbit hole and always looking for components.
I enjoy testing and experimenting with my hand loads and then wondering needlessly about what combination I should hunt with. Good luck with your endeavors.
Arkansasdad
Well-Known Member
Single stage presses are fine but my advice is to buy a Redding T-7 to begin with, been doing this for 50 yrs. and this is the best press hands down I have ever used. Turret presses will allow you to correct your mistakes without breaking down your press as you make them resetting dimensions every time with your dies. There are other turrets out there but the Redding has the least deflection of any I have used. To check this set up a dial indicator above the station with dies in then put 30 lbs on the handle and read the movement. In my experience most Reddings are between .003 and .006 which is great for regular loading. For precision loading use a C style press. A Turret will greatly speed things up and make everything more efficient. These presses are a little pricey but you will never regret it.
Happy shooting.
You have received lots of good advice, so here is my $.02. I'm not a high volume rifle shooter and I like the KISS principal. My press was bought used, a RCBS Rockchucker, I use USA made RCBS by Ohaus beam scales, for the most part RCBS dies, I do have Redding full length bushing sizing dies, a comparator set to measure shoulder bump and base to ogive. I purchased a Frankford Arsenal hand primer tool and love it, before that I primed on my Rockchucker. A vibratory tumbler, case trays and case lube, I prefer Hornady One Shot. You'll need case prep tools, deburrers, primer pocket cleaners, flash hole deburrer and a good set of calipers. As others have mentioned start with a couple reloading manuals. I'm not a fan of "kits" as i feel there is a lot of fluff int he box that isn't good quality or you won't use.
At some point you'll probably want to anneal, I use a propane torch and a rechargeable drill, but there are many ways to skin that cat.
Some guys look at reloading as work, for me it's a hobby, it just happens to feed another hobby.
Be careful, pay attention and have fun.
At some point you'll probably want to anneal, I use a propane torch and a rechargeable drill, but there are many ways to skin that cat.
Some guys look at reloading as work, for me it's a hobby, it just happens to feed another hobby.
Be careful, pay attention and have fun.
308plinkerVT
Well-Known Member
A lot of good info here for you. My two cents, written from the "if this was the only one I were to load for" perspective. I'm 30yrs into reloading, frugal and also coached by a benchrest reloading trained friend 20yrs older. My list for you keeping in mind for an ACKLEY cartridge, already have non Lapua cases, and you're only loading to magazine length in a "standard rifle" setup.
-A simple Lee press for depriming, keep the junk off the "good" press (+ a deprime die)
-The "good" press, RCBS RS5 turn out concentric ammo for me
-Several data sources (books/manuals/online, plus, start a notebook, write everything down)
+Make sure to at least get the manuals from your chosen bullet and powder makers
-Good dies: Hornady, Redding, Forster sleeved types help non BT types seat easier
-A set of die spacing washers will help you neck size with much less initial expense. A helpful point on AI's
-RCBS Compettion measure (P/SR version), basic scale and trickler are safe bets, add a scale check set too.
-I suggest pin tumbling/cleaning, much safer/cleaner in many ways
-Hornady used to sell a simple annealling kit - even top notch cases last longer when annealed
-Sinclair primer pocket uniformer (chucks in a drill like the anneal kit from H)
-Sinclair flash hole tool
-I body size and neck size separately so I suggest a Sinclair neck mandrel die and appropriate size mandrel
-Zedickers ammo book is top notch too, if you can find one.
-A VLD chamfer tool for inside mouths, plus a basic one
-If you're doing "ticky" things with cases Sinclair's trimmer is the way to go if you're patient.
-Starret makes an excellent caliper that's medium budget
-Sinclair chamber gauge
Read the books, don't shortcut.
I can message you a prep/load printable checklist, modified with my steps if you'd like (+more info if you anticipate more "ticky" stuff). There are others on the www but many don't incorporate breaking some steps down. If you start batch loading this is something to ponder (eg practice/target vs hunting batches, although you're striving for little difference between).
Add: all the steps I do can be done on a turret vs single stage too but I still advise keeping the junk off the good press. The less you handle it the better, cumulatively.
-A simple Lee press for depriming, keep the junk off the "good" press (+ a deprime die)
-The "good" press, RCBS RS5 turn out concentric ammo for me
-Several data sources (books/manuals/online, plus, start a notebook, write everything down)
+Make sure to at least get the manuals from your chosen bullet and powder makers
-Good dies: Hornady, Redding, Forster sleeved types help non BT types seat easier
-A set of die spacing washers will help you neck size with much less initial expense. A helpful point on AI's
-RCBS Compettion measure (P/SR version), basic scale and trickler are safe bets, add a scale check set too.
-I suggest pin tumbling/cleaning, much safer/cleaner in many ways
-Hornady used to sell a simple annealling kit - even top notch cases last longer when annealed
-Sinclair primer pocket uniformer (chucks in a drill like the anneal kit from H)
-Sinclair flash hole tool
-I body size and neck size separately so I suggest a Sinclair neck mandrel die and appropriate size mandrel
-Zedickers ammo book is top notch too, if you can find one.
-A VLD chamfer tool for inside mouths, plus a basic one
-If you're doing "ticky" things with cases Sinclair's trimmer is the way to go if you're patient.
-Starret makes an excellent caliper that's medium budget
-Sinclair chamber gauge
Read the books, don't shortcut.
I can message you a prep/load printable checklist, modified with my steps if you'd like (+more info if you anticipate more "ticky" stuff). There are others on the www but many don't incorporate breaking some steps down. If you start batch loading this is something to ponder (eg practice/target vs hunting batches, although you're striving for little difference between).
Add: all the steps I do can be done on a turret vs single stage too but I still advise keeping the junk off the good press. The less you handle it the better, cumulatively.
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6.5x300 WBY
Well-Known Member
The T7 with creedmoor sports upgraded head is the cats meow. It makes the T7 way better
memtb
Well-Known Member
Quote: A couple of things I would add to the list is the Hornady headspace and bullet comparator set
You'd think that after almost 60 years of reloading/hand loading……I'd have one of those!
But, I'm not in the same league as most of you….. 1/2" to 3/4" 3 shot groups work well enough for my hunt'n rifle!
memtb
You'd think that after almost 60 years of reloading/hand loading……I'd have one of those!
But, I'm not in the same league as most of you….. 1/2" to 3/4" 3 shot groups work well enough for my hunt'n rifle!
memtb
6.5x300 WBY
Well-Known Member
I remember when I first started reloading I HATED BRASS PREP I mean loathed it. I only wanted to put in primers ,dump powder, seat a bullet. That was fun but brass prep was so bad to be non existent. FL size was about all the prep I could stand. Oh chamfer and deburring too.
Now I absolutely love brass prep. Don't know how that happened but it did. Funny how things change when you reload for some 40 years.
Now I absolutely love brass prep. Don't know how that happened but it did. Funny how things change when you reload for some 40 years.
You're already in Wyoming check out Casper college reloading classes Toyon is a great instructor cheap education also a newbie start with good measuring equipment I didn't very frustrating calipers wouldn't repeat moved to the Forester coax way better than what we had
