Reloading Equipment

[Aeromancy®]

A quick note if you shoot 308 winchester, do not buy 7.62 NATO, winchester uses 45-70 Government Dies to neck down to a thirty caliber bullet with a 0.308 diameter, and 7.62 uses a 50-90 or 50-240 die to neck down to a thirty caliber bullet 0.338 wide, which gun smiths will tell you that the cases and bullets from the 7.62 winchester fit in 7.62 NATO mil spec but the 7.62 NATO do not fit into the chamber and if they do there is good chance of slam fire when latching the bullet against the primer box in the round.

I work with Henry Cogswell and Chee Stevens on mil spec rifles, and we used the 50-90 and 50-240 brass dies because Winchester claimed to own the 45-70 government design. So the mil spec brass only fits chambers designed for it. Also if the rifle is 308 Winchester the pressure may only be 200 psi still. The 7.62 NATO is 80,000 psi by the design documents even though I am not sure any of the mkg have built a built with that much force. Winchester I think joined the AR crowd to take advantage of some of the updates but if you want to use the military brass you want to get Winchester or the mkg to build you a new rifle. The brass will always cost far more than any rifle you buy, unless it armament then it would shells.

 

[johnlittletree]

My first reloading setup was while I was in college shortly after I moved out of the dorms. It was a Dillion 550B and while it is a nice set up I later got a Lee Reloading Set. The Dillion 550B is great for churning out a lot of ammo real fast. It is not that great for load development or for a fast change from one caliper to another. My Lee Anniversary Edition is fantastic for that. So I use my Lee gear for load development then once I know what I want I transition over to the Dillion and proceed to churn out huge amounts of what I want. Last I checked the AMU was using a COAX press for all of their custom loaded stuff and a lot of people would POO-POO it I am sure since it is not made by Sinclair or other high end gear brands.

I have a mix and match approach with some Sinclair stuff, Hornady, Redding, RCBS, Lee for accessories and some of my gear I made myself. Sometimes the best stuff is worth every penny and some times it is not worth to spend the big bucks until your reading for it. Like any tool it is never as easy as just tossing money at them unless you just have too much money. So understanding what a tool does and how it does it is fairly important. If you can try out various pieces of gear from friends and clubs and such that is a huge head start. Mentors can be a great help of they can be nothing but a source of bias so chose wisely!

Knowing how to use the tools consistently is initially more important then the level of precise adjustment the tool has. Usually going with too much hind end gear can often hold someone back initially. It is not unlike trying to perfect shooting technique with too much cartridge at first. Like trying to learn to shoot a handgun accurately starting out with a 500 S&W Magnum as compared to starting out with a 22LR Pistol.

Definetly start out with the basics and full length sizing and what they recommend in the reloading manuals. Reloading is like math you can make it as easy or complicated as you desire. Most math teachers will tell you that some ways of learning are better than other's and their should be a logical progression if you want to turn out a good product. As your experience grows you can expand your techniques and tweak the operations for what you want and need but do so with caution and in a logical progressive way!

 

[RSWeir]

Take a deep breath... I had to teach myself everything I know, as well. Nobody in my family and none of my friends reload. I'm the lonewolf/blacksheep of the family. I've made my share of newbie mistakes. If I ever come-off as being abrupt it's not on purpose, it's to help someone from making the mistakes I made when I first started out...Which were plenty.

Don't worry about all that belted crap. Those people either don't know what they're talking about, or are just bias towards belted cases because they didn't know how to properly setup their dies. For the Weatherby (or any/all bolt-action rifle cartridges), I recommend neck-sizing your brass. Then when you get bolt resistance when closing the bolt, FL resize them once. Then go back to neck-sizing until you get resistance again. Somewhere in that mix, your brass should be worn-out and need replacing with new fresh brass. Redding sells 3-die "Deluxe" sets that include the FL sizing, neck sizing, and seating dies. You will still need to get a #6 shell holder for it.

For the AR's, I recommend the RCBS AR-series "SB" (small-base) full-length sizing dies. I use them for 5.56, .300 BLK, and 6.5 Grendel (.264 LBC). For the AR cartridges, I recommend a good set of case gauges, like the LE Wilson gauges.

So the RCBS small base .264 LBC FLS die works for the 6.5 Grendel? I've tried locating a small base die that is listed specifically for the Grendel with no success. I've had recurring ejection/loading issues with the Redding & Hornady 6.5 Grendel FLS dies.

 

[Troutslayer2]

you can get a Chargemaster 1500 for $299.99 with free shipping at Natches + there's a $100 rebate from RCBS as long as you buy it before the 28th and send the rebate stuff in by the end of January. So that nets out to $199 total. I'm not sure you'll ever find one cheaper than that.

 

[MudRunner2005]

So the RCBS small base .264 LBC FLS die works for the 6.5 Grendel? I've tried locating a small base die that is listed specifically for the Grendel with no success. I've had recurring ejection/loading issues with the Redding & Hornady 6.5 Grendel FLS dies.

Yes. The .264 LBC is essentially the same cartridge as the 6.5 Grendel. I think the only difference is the chamber throating or something, which has nothing to do with the dies.

 

[Bootsnall74]

I am just getting into reloading and was given a rock chucker supreme for Christmas this year. Now I need to buy all the other equipment I need to start reloading. Other than the shell plates, the dies, and the consumables, what will I need to get started? I'll be using both new and once fired brass until I get some stock piled. What system should I look at for the powder charge? I don't want to spend a ton of money, and two of the calibers I'll reload for are for hunting only. The other caliber I'll load will be a combination long range target and hunting rifle.

Also, how do you go about selecting the right dies for your intended application?

 

[Bootsnall74]

Hey cobber
So many questions ?
So many varied opinions all good ,
but some from different perspectives .
I was in the same boat a lot time ago. I bought a lone book ,then the whole series by a kiwi bloke called Nathen Forster.
The one on reloading is a game changer for a new guy.
He's a weath of practical Knowledge with no BS and no cash for comment check it out think his website is called ballistics studies . Com
He has mass of data from different projectiles recoverd small to big game animals
giving terminal performance valuations .
Well worth checking out especially for the Re-loading Aspect

 

[Blackdirt Cowboy]

you can get a Chargemaster 1500 for $299.99 with free shipping at Natches + there's a $100 rebate from RCBS as long as you buy it before the 28th and send the rebate stuff in by the end of January. So that nets out to $199 total. I'm not sure you'll ever find one cheaper than that.

Thanks for the heads up troutslayer. I was about to purchase the Chargemaster Lite from midway for 279.99. I just ordered this one from Natchez. I agree, I don't think you'll find it any cheaper.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

RCBS shell holder for 308 and 6.8SPC
Redding shell holder for 7mm weatherby
Redding deluxe 3 die set for 7mm
RCBS AR style 2 die set for 308 and 6.8
L.E. Wilson case gauge for 308 and 6.8
Starett 799 digital calipers
Lyman and Hornady reloading manual
Frankford Arsenal platinum series case trim and prep center
RCBS chargmaster 1500
RCBS 50 round loading tray
Imperial case sizing wax
RCBS rotary case tumblr

This all totals up to about $1400 or so before the rock chucker rebate.

id put it all in a cart , then go to brownells and add all the same stuff .. i like midway , but more often than not i get a cheaper deal from brownells but somtimes the other way around .. with midway make sure you are using the promotion codes they give out, fairly easy to find 10% off every hundred promotion codes ( but can only use one a day )personally i think your going overboard buying everything all at once, but i did the same thing ... one thing about midway they give you a pretty good break on your first order then a for your birthday you'll get a coupon too , think its an additional 5% off including sale items

shell holders , id get a complete lyman set
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/727056/lyman-shellholder-pack-of-12

i might get 2 cheap sets of calipers instead of the starrett .. dials never run out of batteries
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/822768/hornady-dial-caliper-6-stainless-steel

i would not buy the hornady and just get the lyman , hornady IMO prints data trying to stay so far away from any dangerous pressure that they are sometime unsafe towards the low side of the charge weight

as far as the ar type dies go , you can get a carbide rifle sizer die (( very expensive )) that will never scratch and last for ever from dillon precision
https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-carbide-rifle-dies-individual-three-die-sets_8_4_24498.html

dont forget the pocket swager to deal with that military 308 brass
https://www.dillonprecision.com/super-swage-600_8_8_25263.html

id learn on your AR stuff then , move to the next project for 7mm ( redding deluxe dies are nice but really they are just the best of the starter basic level dies -- for that rifle I'd wait for a bushing die at the minimum )

what about powder primers and projectiles ??

do you want one of these?
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/635539/k-and-m-professional-flash-hole-uniformer-standard-0080

 

[L.Sherm]

If I'm gonna spend money on a higher end die I go the Whidden route, I like them better than reddings competition dies.
You can have John make you a FL die from your print or fired cases and a seater from your reamer if you have one but you certainly dont need one to get started. Word of caution though when you use a die like whiddens you will get spoiled.

 

[NeedForSpeed]

If I'm gonna spend money on a higher end die I go the Whidden route, I like them better than reddings competition dies.
You can have John make you a FL die from your print or fired cases and a seater from your reamer if you have one but you certainly dont need one to get started. Word of caution though when you use a die like whiddens you will get spoiled.

what does the Whidden die do that others dont?

 

[Newbweatherby]

Whatever you decide on, get yourself one of these... It's worth the expense.

https://www.mightyarmory.com/products/copy-of-the-magnum-100-universal-decapping-die-for-all-presses

As for scales, balance beams are good to have around because they function without electricity. However, they're not quite as accurate as a digital scale when it comes down to serious precision loading down to 1/10 of a grain. If you go with a digital setup, and stick to extruded rifle powders, then I suggest the Chargemaster 1500. Pricey, but worth the investment. If you want something that's half manual and half digital, then getting a Hornady Quick-Trickle and a good digital scale like a Gempro setup where you hand trickle each charge, that's also a very precise way to go.

Dies, I prefer Redding over RCBS, but have lots of each, and they all work good. Also, a way to make precision ammo, is to buy a shell holder for each individual set of dies, and do not mix them around. This way your die set is adjusted perfectly to that shell plate, in your press. When it comes to loading precision ammo, consistency is key in every aspect.

Do yourself a favor and get some Imperial Sizing Wax, and DO NOT use Hornady One-Shot spray! That stuff will get brass stuck faster than anything. At the minimum use 98% alcohol and 12:1 lanolin mixture that you mix yourself.

Get a good set of calipers. I don't recommend skimping on money in this department... You'll find you use caliper for a lot more than just reloading. I use the Starrett 799A-6.

I agree with the redding dies over RCBS dies ,iI started with a Lee single stage and used their dies for a while for my 10mm and 300 why but i quickly got tired of them because i had to keep resetting my seating depth due to no lock on the seating die

 

[NeedForSpeed]

I agree with the redding dies over RCBS dies ,iI started with a Lee single stage and used their dies for a while for my 10mm and 300 why but i quickly got tired of them because i had to keep resetting my seating depth due to no lock on the seating die

You can buy rings made by Forster that have an allen screw to lock your Lee dies in place. They are something like 10 for 25 bucks

 

[L.Sherm]

what does the Whidden die do that others dont?

They dont over work your brass, if you ever use one you'll see what I mean.