• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Reloading Dies

I took it up to about .8oz and relatively few problems, and those were related to how I was reloading. I now take every round through a Lyman ammo checker and that has virtually eliminated bolt/trigger problems

pete , can you explain how your reloading affected bolt or trigger function ?? why do you think the Lyman tool helped
 
Just curious but have you checked for consistency between bullets? They can vary quite a bit, depending on brand. The only effect that might have on neck tension should be slight, however, the bullet to bullet variation shouldn't be that great. Brass thickness? Lots of possibilities but most seem unlikely to cause a noticeable difference in neck tension. Durn voodoo again!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
Just curious but have you checked for consistency between bullets? They can vary quite a bit, depending on brand. The only effect that might have on neck tension should be slight, however, the bullet to bullet variation shouldn't be that great. Brass thickness? Lots of possibilities but most seem unlikely to cause a noticeable difference in neck tension. Durn voodoo again!
Cheers,
crkckr
Yes I have checked for consistency and that's not the problem I use Berger 80.5 gr bullets the cases are all Norma and have been used in the same gun the problem with the bolt is if they are seated to long when you close the bolt and jam the bullet in to the lands it puts back pressure on the bolt it's self then when you pull the trigger it won't fire when removing the unfixed round the bullet gets stuck in the barrel and I end up with a powder mess I can get the bullet out and clean up the powder so to avoid this I try and keep .005 off of the lands but for some reason my Forster seating die no longer seats to the same ogive measurement that's the problem.
 
I have been talking to Bob and Scott from Forster i have sent them the measurements of 20 rounds that I loaded in a row and am waiting for them to get back might end up sending the die some brass and bullets to them they have been more than willing to help
 
im only keeping this topic going for your safety and anyone you shoot with , i suggest you post this in the gunsmithing threads or ask your own gunsmith, about the firing problem

If you're just neck sizing and it's not firing you don't have a die problem. You have a firing system problem.

i hope someone beside magman in post 2# will chime in and help you understand there is a firing / bolt/ timing / trigger problem that should be addressed first

( not recommended ) for example purposes ,if i left my brass too long and sized the brass shoulder using my chamber as the die and beating the bolt handle down until it closed or a pipe wrench and 2 cheater bars (creating massive back pressure) o_O:mad:o_O...... it should still fire , if i could get it to close

your gun still has a problem, i hope you talk to a gunsmith about it or savage themselves
 
im only keeping this topic going for your safety and anyone you shoot with , i suggest you post this in the gunsmithing threads or ask your own gunsmith, about the firing problem



i hope someone beside magman in post 2# will chime in and help you understand there is a firing / bolt/ timing / trigger problem that should be addressed first

( not recommended ) for example purposes ,if i left my brass too long and sized the brass shoulder using my chamber as the die and beating the bolt handle down until it closed or a pipe wrench and 2 cheater bars (creating massive back pressure) o_O:mad:o_O...... it should still fire , if i could get it to close

your gun still has a problem, i hope you talk to a gunsmith about it or savage themselves
First off I haven't and never would pound any bolt down I have been shooting and reloading for over thirty years with out an accident misfire or stuck case the problem is the die is not seating consistent and if it is to long it doesn't take much pressure to close the bolt but it is enough to make the gun not fire so to avoid this I keep the projectiles .005 off the lands and can shoot one home groups at 200yds consistently the question was has anyone else had die trouble like this in thirty years I haven't so if the shooters you know want to pound bolts or use a pile wrench have at it
M
 
I'll never post another question or give advise on this thread again I thought the shooters on here would show a little respect towards each other and give helpful advise I guess I was wrong adios
 
i am giving you respect and trying to help you fix your gun , i dont understand where you think i disrespected you

doesn't take much pressure to close the bolt but it is enough to make the gun not fire

this is my point , exactly

i know your not beating up your rifle , i said IF i did that " for exmple " , just to create more , back pressure than you had by barely jamming the lands.. that it would still fire

poeple jam the lands on purpose all the time , on purpose , and their guns still fire ... right ???
 
I'm going to have to agree with Dusty, there is definitely something amiss with your rifle. Not firing just because of a round touching the lands and creating a little back pressure on the bolt is not right at all. I've got a Win. .270 that likes some bullets jammed hard into the lands and it fires every time. My R700 fires as well but doesn't seem to like the bullets jammed. If I have to remove a loaded round for some reason, I just stand the rifle up and pull the case out (usually not spilling any powder at all) and always have a rod handy to tap the bullet out. Plus, I only shoot those rounds from the bench.

I think he was just using the bashing the bolt closed as an example, not saying that's what you're doing. At least that's the way I read it. Everyone here is out to help you and anyone else that needs it. You simply can't hang around here very long without learning new stuff!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
thanks crkckr , i felt like i was trying to help the guy all the way through 3 pages , with all 3 topics , tension , seating and firing problems.

since this post i have tried to google any other problems similar to his descriptions , everything seems to funnel back to too light of trigger or sear damage ... im a tinker fanatic and not a gunsmith , *** edited **
 
Last edited:
thanks crkckr , i felt like i was trying to help the guy all the way through 3 pages , with all 3 topics , tension , seating and firing problems.

since this post i have tried to google any other problems similar to his descriptions , everything seems to funnel back to too light of trigger of sear damage ... im a tinker fanatic and not a gunsmith , i figured he wasnt believing my suggestions so i recommended he talk to a real gunsmith that he can believe

i wondered the whole way through this tread if he was just trying to argue ... OP's first sentence
I am not trying to or want to argue with anyone. I have spoken to savage about the firing problem and Forester is fixing the seating die.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top