Reloading Dies

[Gater]

I

for the cost, of a competition set ... it would really come down to how much i shot the rifle, it would also depend on the consistence of the neck wall thickness of the brass you are using , id bet your Norma necks are very good so it would be worth it IMO.

type s neck
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049354
body die
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018046992

then use your existing seater

but if you were shooting lessor quality 223 cases , no chance i wouldnt bother ..

sometimes you can neck turn your brass to better fit your existing die ( measure your sized down down diameter , with expander removed ) .. might be cheaper option

back to priority, of why do you think the rifle didnt fire ??

ordered a Forster neck sizing die with bushings. All I use in that gun is Norma brass and Berger bullets I do have 200 rounds of Lapua brass a friend gave me but I put that aside for now

 

[Gater]

for the cost, of a competition set ... it would really come down to how much i shot the rifle, it would also depend on the consistence of the neck wall thickness of the brass you are using , id bet your Norma necks are very good so it would be worth it IMO.

type s neck
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049354
body die
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018046992

then use your existing seater

but if you were shooting lessor quality 223 cases , no chance i wouldnt bother ..

sometimes you can neck turn your brass to better fit your existing die ( measure your sized down down diameter , with expander removed ) .. might be cheaper option

back to priority, of why do you think the rifle didnt fire ??

From my understanding the Savage Accu trigger has some sort of safety built in if you have to much back pressure it goes in to a safe mode I need to do more research on this a friend had the same trouble he put in an after market trigger I think it was a Timmney not sure but he doesn't have any more problems so it's either keep off the lands by a couple thousandths or replace the trigger

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

watch that earlier video , does it do that lock thing ??

were the silver colored parts kinda lifts up when the trigger is pulled or at the time the bolt is closed

i could be wrong but i dont think there is anything that related to back pressure of the chamber that relates to the trigger , i have seen myself lack of spring pressure , adjusting pull weight spring also make the accutrigger safety spring lighter in the process , so it will slide up the pivot pin up into safety position

 

[Gater]

I haven't had time just sat down for a break

 

[Gater]

Just watched the Video I have had trouble if you don't put pressure straight back if you push slightly to the side it will lock up my problem is if there is back pressure on the bolt it won't fire so I just stay about 5 thousandths off the lands then no problem my biggest problem is getting consistent seating pressure when I seat a bullet some are easier to seat than others and the Forster seating die has a spring in it so if you don't have the same tension you don't get the same depth so I ordered a sizing die with bushings hope that fixes my problems

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

with that said , i might suggest that you try to duplicate your issue without a bullet seated ,take a spent case without any bullet or powder in it , and see if you added a piece of tape to the back of the case head so that it put that back pressure you are referring to , then try the trigger if it doesn't work like you have stated i would increase the pull weight and see if the greater trigger pull weight fixes it , i think that will solve it

note the shape of the pivot hole on the silver piece , that is what allows it to slide up into safety block when its too light or not adjusted correctly, your rear pull weight spring has to have more pressure than the accurelease spring or it will lift up and lock

although its not an aftermarket trigger like your friends , it does however have that safety feature that i would consider an added insurance and i think you could have it polished and tuned up to be as good as an aftermarket and still keep the safety aspect JMHO

 

[mpayne]

Tag in

 

[skipglo]

Every thing fires the only time it won't is if I seat them long and jam the bullet in the lands i don't know if it's a safety deal with savages accu trigger or not a friend had the same problem he changed triggers and that fixed it my problem is I can't get a consistent jump I am trying to keep it at .05

Full length size a few....or even 2... see if there's any change.

 

[Gater]

Full length size a few....or even 2... see if there's any change.

I FLS all of the brass for my AR-15 and the M1-A but the volt guns not so much I don't have a problem with the brass and the chamber everything is nice and smooth closes nice and locks down it's the case mouth that isn't giving me a consistent tension even though they are all the same legenth and have been reloaded about the same number of times so I ordered a Forster neck sizing bump die with bushings should get it tomorrow or the next day I hope

 

[misterc01]

I 'm shooting a Savage Model F T/R so I have a little experience with it. The Accu-trigger: Works fine, BUT you need to be gentle with it. Don't try to "slam" the bolt closed of use alto of force. If you go to hard, the trigger locks up. Initially from the factory, the trigger pull was about .2oz - and that light setting was the main culprit. I took it up to about .8oz and relatively few problems, and those were related to how I was reloading. I now take every round through a Lyman ammo checker and that has virtually eliminated bolt/trigger problems. Seating - that has been an adventure. I sent a fired case to Hornady to have them set it up for my comparator, and it took a while to get the "feel" for when a bullet was on the lands. I now use both a Hornady and Sinclair Comparator, and take a minimum of ten measurments with each - one, then the other. I get two sets of readings (obviously) consistent with each other, then average the two sets independently, so I can then measure my final seating depth with each to make sure I am getting the depth I want. I started going .001 - .002 off the lands, and found that last time out my groups shrank at.010 off the lands. So, my rifle likes the longer jump. Hope this useful to you.

 

[Gater]

Thanks when I first bought the gun I to had the trigger set to light now I am at 1 pound sounds like a lot but any lighter and I don't care for it. As long as I don't jam it in to the lands the gun works fine but I am trying to get as close as I can .002 -.003 but my seating die isn't giving me a consistent length I measured from the ogive when I seat a bullet some need more pressure than others that's why I ordered a neck sizing die w/bushings from Forster just waiting for it to get delivered should be here Friday but when your at the mercy of the USPS who knows

 

[YZ-80]

Don't know if i should invest in a sizing die with bushings so I can get a consistent tension on the neck ?

I have a few sets of Redding Type S bushing dies and I like them a lot but still rely on standard RCBS dies for many of my cartridges. I only started paying attention to neck tension a few years ago when I got my 6.5 Lapua. I was going to "re-standardize" to all Redding dies but thought, let me just see what kind of neck tension consistency I'm getting with my "plain Jane" dies. Well, I was pleasantly surprised: for my .243, .25-06 and the Crudmoore, I was pretty much consistent at .002". Now, mind you, these are all sporting rifles that I don't intend to take beyond 300 yards anyway but it's nice to know that they are relatively consistent in this regard. It just makes me feel warm inside.

Runout is a different matter, but it's not too bad and can easily be corrected with my concentricity gage. Cheers!

 

[Gater]

I have a few sets of Redding Type S bushing dies and I like them a lot but still rely on standard RCBS dies for many of my cartridges. I only started paying attention to neck tension a few years ago when I got my 6.5 Lapua. I was going to "re-standardize" to all Redding dies but thought, let me just see what kind of neck tension consistency I'm getting with my "plain Jane" dies. Well, I was pleasantly surprised: for my .243, .25-06 and the Crudmoore, I was pretty much consistent at .002". Now, mind you, these are all sporting rifles that I don't intend to take beyond 300 yards anyway but it's nice to know that they are relatively consistent in this regard. It just makes me feel warm inside.

My RCBS benchrest seating die is ok but they are not as true as the Forster ultra micro die but the Forster seating die has a spring in side and that's why I need the necks to have the same tension. It will be something to play with as the shooting season here is winding down after November it's hit of miss for nice days at the range

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

when using very soft jacketed varmint bullets , the seater plug can deform the end of the bullets giving inconsistent ogive measurements , you want your neck tension to overcome before any bullet damages ( amax are very soft jackets )

but the Forster seating die has a spring in side and that's why I need the necks to have the same tension

the spring is only on the case support tube , it only supports the case while the seating happens , because rifle cases are slightly bigger at the rear ( tapered up to the shoulder ). the forester seater dies do not have any springs that will change the the distance between the seater plug and the base of the shell holder ( bottom out that support tube spring , so teh shell holder almost hits the die body then . back out only until you can read the numbers )

a standard seater die like an rcbs , will have some gap between the shoulder and the die body , and sometimes push the brass against the side of the die body while allowing the bullet to start seating crooked ,leaving you with runout as large as that gap was ,

the forester case support tube is likely machined to match foresters ideas of the measurements they think a sized case should be ( brass measurements from other sizing dies may not fit that tube so well )

please post what you find with the trigger issues ...i still can not see the relations to the bullet jamming , when you say the trigger will lock when touching sideways. that makes me think that you are right on that edge of too light adjustment , if you do some research i think you will find that there are ways to keep pull weight light and still function well , and get to keep the accurelease safety aspect of it