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Recoil, what recoil?

  • Thread starter Deleted member 107796
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.....I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss sub-MOA groups from a big bore.
............If you want to join me at the range and buy the ammunition, I'd be more than happy to demonstrate! I love that rifle and I love to shoot it! It shoots much better than any of my three 375 H&H Mags do......

Used quite a few .375 H&H's in my younger days. They all shot, pre-muzzle brake days. The best is still in the safe, since my neck was welded back together it's about a 2 day migraine to shoot it.

Last time out 2 different shooters at 275ish yards rang my steel squirrel target rather easily.
 
:rolleyes: Hopefully you are joking, cause I'm LMAO! :D:D:D

Yes and no. The recoil on that rifle is awful. I think because it's relativelt light, the stock is pretty straight and streamline, and it has a steel recoil pad. The only way to describe it is a really sharp and violent strike on your cheek and shoulder. No matter how hard you hold it, it still stings your shoulder a bit. Everyone who's ever shot it says the same thing. I don't want to change anything about it, since I love it (the rifle overall, not the recoil).

I have shot .300WM and .338 LMs that were not bad at all. More like a slow, solid push. They were heavier, with expensive stocks, and $100+ brakes.
 
I'm tagging in to tell everyone that this thread is invalid.

I have a Remington 700 ADL in .30-06 with a laminate stock that will make grown men cry. Recoil is real, be afraid, be very afraid. :D:):D

This is exactly what my original post is about and it's not subjective... there is no reason that this awesome rifle, should kick so bad, given new types of recoil reduction that would absolutely reduce felt recoil in a measurable way. This is coming from a guy who felt the same way about my friend's Xbolt in 30-06. I hated shooting it with 165gn rounds. As usual, there was nothing mystical in solving the problem. It had a crappy hard rubber recoil pad, a la original Tikka T3. Then I discovered Mr. Limbsaver. I would bet money that if you installed this model (or other Rem model) on your Rem, it would change how you shoot that rifle.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...wood-stocks-with-4-7-8-buttstock-rubber-black
 
Muzzle break plus a good Limbsaver does wonders.

Remember recoil impulse velocity is still recoil velocity, break diminishes the velocity, Limbsaver reduces what you feel.

I shoot light recoil impulse velocity rifles much more accurately than heavy recoil impulse velocity rifles....most people do.

I have played with 7 different kinds of muzzle breaks, and the Gentry brake has ports that are slanted around 15* forward, and this really has a dramatic impact on the felt concussion from the muzzle blast. The Little bastard was one of the more effective brakes and they do have a clamp on unit that is very effective, wear ear plugs or electronic ear muffs during hunting.
 
Yes and no. The recoil on that rifle is awful. I think because it's relativelt light, the stock is pretty straight and streamline, and it has a steel recoil pad. The only way to describe it is a really sharp and violent strike on your cheek and shoulder. No matter how hard you hold it, it still stings your shoulder a bit. Everyone who's ever shot it says the same thing. I don't want to change anything about it, since I love it (the rifle overall, not the recoil).

I have shot .300WM and .338 LMs that were not bad at all. More like a slow, solid push. They were heavier, with expensive stocks, and $100+ brakes.
I grew up shooting a savage 99(308) with a metal butt plate, never really noticed it in the winter, a thick jacket really cushions it, but shoot it with a T-shirt lol.
Regardless I found my 300wby needlessly violent even with a recoil pad.
It also awesome when you fire the big guns and the grass for 20feet on either side of the brake lays down!
 
Yes and no. The recoil on that rifle is awful. I think because it's relativelt light, the stock is pretty straight and streamline, and it has a steel recoil pad. The only way to describe it is a really sharp and violent strike on your cheek and shoulder. No matter how hard you hold it, it still stings your shoulder a bit. Everyone who's ever shot it says the same thing. I don't want to change anything about it, since I love it (the rifle overall, not the recoil).

I have shot .300WM and .338 LMs that were not bad at all. More like a slow, solid push. They were heavier, with expensive stocks, and $100+ brakes.

That's a buttplate, not a recoil pad. Yes, that will make the recoil very notable! I still have a couple older 700s with the buttplate. One is a 1962 7mm Rem Mag! Adding a quality 1" thick recoil pad won't hinder accuracy, in will improve it. It will slow down the effect of the recoil and let the bullet exit the barrel with less rifle motion before it does. It will also slowdown your shoulder/body motion, again lessening the rifle movement that occurs before the bullet escapes the bore.

If the rifle is a heirloom, a collectible or has sentimental value, then I understand not altering it. You'll just have to suffer through. If not, add the pad!

If you truly have issue with that nasty recoiling Remington 700 ADL 30-06 with a Laminate stock, I might be interested in helping by taking it off your hands, for a reasonable price! I only own nine '06s right now. I could use one more!
 
Yes and no. The recoil on that rifle is awful. I think because it's relativelt light, the stock is pretty straight and streamline, and it has a steel recoil pad. The only way to describe it is a really sharp and violent strike on your cheek and shoulder. No matter how hard you hold it, it still stings your shoulder a bit. Everyone who's ever shot it says the same thing. I don't want to change anything about it, since I love it (the rifle overall, not the recoil).

I have shot .300WM and .338 LMs that were not bad at all. More like a slow, solid push. They were heavier, with expensive stocks, and $100+ brakes.

Rifle should kick but not smack u in the face.

Check to see if the barrel is hitting the stock, action bedded tightly or if the recoil lug is not in contact with the bearing surface of the stock.

Run the dollar bill under barrel back to action. If its snug anywhere its probably hitting when fired.

I'm assuming stock is not cracked.



I have seen a few guns that SING when they shoot.
 
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As the conversation usually goes, yes subjective, but much can be quantified, and is the only way meaning full conversation can take place.
One can boast about shooting a 12 lb .458 Winchester, but a stock .45-70 Ruger #3 may bring tears to the eyes. Devils in the objective details. A 16 lb LRKM isn't the same rifle as a 9lb Remington just because they are both .338 Edge.
JE Custom has done much good video work quantifying the effect of muzzle breaks, if you're new here they are worth the watch. If not for preserving your shoulder, demonstrating what happens to your rifle in the process.
I use brakes, and recoil pads-- really not my point at all.

My point is this, have my wife shoot my 22" 270w with no brake , thin recoil pad, 7.25 pounds scoped with 150 grain handloads at 3000fps (hot load for a 270w)--- she says its "ok to shoot" --- now have her shoot my 26"- 9.5 pound scoped 7 rm shooting 160grain bullets at 3050 (super accurate-fairly mild load for my 7rm) with excellent 4 port mbm beast brake and limbsaver pad and she will pull the trigger 1 time then give up--- she says "that thing is big, heavy, loud, and kicks hard"--- but in reality the 7rm recoils less than the 270, that 7rm just sits there when you pull the trigger, no muzzle jump or flip and recoil is so mild my 12 year old daughter will even pull the trigger on it a few times-- it's all in the perception. My wife sees the "big heavy loud gun" and immediately thinks it's going to hurt. It's called "perceived recoil"

Now have 20 people shoot both rifles and give their honest opinion and we will see a trend of how people perceive the recoil of those 2 rifles--- that means more to me than 1 opinion on one personal rifle.
 
I think most can tolerate shooting a couple rounds from most cartridges. But this is a long range shooting forum. It takes practice to consistently make hits beyond 4-500 yards...like a couple hundred rounds a yearly more...some shoot thousands. I know that I shoot at least 50-100 rounds every time I go out. At that point recoil matters.
 
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Due to injury and illness I can no longer suffer heavy kicking guns. Adding mercury recoil reducers, various muzzle brakes, and better recoil butt pads (plus the occasional use of a shoulder pad) has helped me shoot the rifles I own.

I hunt with electronic muffs on (I have bilat tinnitus as well) so muzzle brake is ok with me. As funds allow I am slowly adding suppressors to my collection.

Suppressing my 338-378 Wby was one of the best decisions I made. The Silencerco Harvester really tames the beastly Weatherby. Before the suppressor I had a JP howitzer style muzzle brake on the Weatherby. Lying prone the Weatherby would kick dirt and vegetation around.

Several of my rifles wear the JP howitzer style brake which eliminates the need for further recoil reduction. On a 338 WM and 7mm WM I can watch my shots, but anyone beside me is not very happy every time I press the trigger.

In South Africa our outfitter specifically forbade rifle brakes. We're not trophy hunters nor are we interested in shooting particularly dangerous critters. We took light recoiling guns that we shot well.

Our outfitter actually wanted customers with smaller guns they shot well rather than some ginormous magnum they couldn't shoot at all. The guide regaled us with stories of a previous customer with a 338 UM (fairly new at the time) that the client was scared of. The nervous client ended up borrowing the guide's 7x57 Mauser and did quite well with it.

Many years ago in Argentina, the wife and I were shooting doves with then current "light kicking" semi-auto 12 ga shotguns. After day two both of us had bruises.
 
Here's my spin on recoil. Why does anyone take a big caliber gun out to the range to hunt paper targets in the first place, unless they're a closet masochist?? Take a 223 and punch holes all day long. Big bore is for hunting?? Sure. A couple of rounds to sight the gun in at the begining of the season, and maybe one or two rounds when they're zero'd in on something for the whole season. A 20 round box of ammo should last you for years. If a big bore is all you have it's time to go hunting for a small bore range rifle and a carton of bulk ammo... and go have fun... :)


You don't have to shoot the "kickers" from the bench, excerpt for load work and proving your zero. They should be used in the field, replicating hunting situations. That's what coyotes, Jack rabbits, and prarrie "poodles" are for! It doesn't require hundreds of rounds fired, just some good honest field use! memtb
 
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