David Emerson
Well-Known Member
Whatever you use for glass bedding will work.
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Recoil Pad Help!!!
- Thread starter j3564wost
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
j3564wost
Well-Known Member
How are you attaching it to the miter saw? Or are you just holding it?
David Emerson
Well-Known Member
My saw has a clamp on it. I would never try to hold it free hand. If the saw were to bind you would have a major problem.
j3564wost
Well-Known Member
I believe he is cutting it with the stock in the upright position. So, bottom metal side down. With a big 12" miter it would have the ability to cut all the way through with one pass.
If this is the first grind-to-fit you've attempted, it's difficult to get the toe angle correct (sometimes the comb as well) and blended into the sides of the pad without a grinding jig. Keeps the pad at the correct orientation on the belt sander table. Well worth the $$ to get a factory-precise installation. Either of these...
www.midwayusa.com
www.brownells.com
Miles Gilbert Recoil Pad Installation Fixture
The Miles Gilbert Recoil Pad Installation Fixture accurately transfers the toe-line angle and the comb line from the stock to the new recoil pad; also...
www.midwayusa.com
Gunsmithing Tools for Firearm Maintenance & Customization | Brownells
Shop gunsmithing tools (704) at Brownells, including bench blocks, hammer & punch sets, screwdrivers, and tool kits for firearm maintenance and repairs.
www.brownells.com
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
That's what I do with my laminate & wood stocks. I would not attempt this with a back saw - my Dewalt compound miter saw has been used for many projects including stock work. Taping the stock with sticky tape helps to prevent chipping. To get a small amount of negative pitch (barrel angled slightly down) I first measure the pitch angle using a level with stock placed upright on level flat surface, pad removed. Then if a pitch change is needed, I place the stock flat on the saw bed and shim it so I get a 90* angle between end of stock and saw bed. Then go for the 3* or so pitch angle with the heel or comb of the stock against the back of the saw bed and an angled cut in towards the toe.
My limited experience with plastic stocks has involved filling a hollow or foam filled cavity with wood so screws can be used to hold the pad on. Depending on the type of plastic (tupperware stocks) the epoxy might need some kind of mechanical lock. Gluing a pad on means the pad could be destroyed if it needs to be removed. I often re-install pads on other rifles. A good pad may cost $25 or more and may be reused if the steel inserts are not exposed. Pachmayr makes a good cheap 1/2 inch or so pad with no steel inserts.
If you decide to saw stuff, off don't cut into steel parts. The next one you do will go faster and look better.
JustMe2
Well-Known Member
If I was using my miter saw to cut the stock, I'd use a large piece of Styrofoam to support/hold the stock on its side. Use a razor knife and/or grinder to cut the shape of the stock in the Styrofoam jig. Lay the stock on its side, not upright, in the Styrofoam jig so it is more stable and doesn't move, then align the foam jig with the angle you want to cut. Also rather than cut an angle on the stock, I'd cut the angle on the pad. If you don't like the angle you cut, now you only have to buy another pad and haven't ruined your stock.
Vettepilot
Well-Known Member
I would probably saw all but 1/8" off with my band saw, then grind the rest off with my belt sander.
I just refinished a Boyd's stock. They said the recoil pad was not glued on, but might have been screwed on before the stock had dried, causing the pad to stick. Man! No amount of careful work with a razor knife would get that pad off in one piece! It came off, but left pieces of the pad backer stuck to the stock that had to be chiseled, then sanded off. Boyd's was very cool. Sent me a new pad that I didn't even request.
Vettepilot
I just refinished a Boyd's stock. They said the recoil pad was not glued on, but might have been screwed on before the stock had dried, causing the pad to stick. Man! No amount of careful work with a razor knife would get that pad off in one piece! It came off, but left pieces of the pad backer stuck to the stock that had to be chiseled, then sanded off. Boyd's was very cool. Sent me a new pad that I didn't even request.
Vettepilot
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
I put the stock in the deep freeze overnight, then while frozen I hacksaw the pad off trying to keep the blade contacting the glue and not touching the wood. Then sand to finish.
I also glue and screw, had too many pads come loose over the years.
Cheers.
I also glue and screw, had too many pads come loose over the years.
Cheers.
Wouldn't it be nice if someone with one of those 3D printer gizmo's would make an insert for synthetic gunstocks that would allow easier recoil pad installation. I have whittled/ fitted pieces of oak into the stock to allow installing a new/better pad and/or adjusting length of pull.
j3564wost
Well-Known Member
Dang I didn't even think of that. I've got a 3d printer just sitting here! I guess it might be time for some tinkering.....
As mentioned in previous posts, a mitre saw with a very fine tooth blade will work. Extra care must be taken to have the face of the butt perpendicular to the saw's table and parallel with the saw blade. A right angle square used on the table and the blade will adjust the blade for correct 90 degree angle. Well-burnished tape around the end will help with chips. The use of inserts or wood dowels epoxied into the structural foam of the stock to hold the new pad will allow for enough clamping power should you choose to glue on the new pad. If you choose to glue on the new pad without the use of inserts, pipe clamps set on 5' sections of pipe will provide ample clamping power. Additionally, I would only use a Pachmayr pad for my experience with the other brand mentioned is that they breakdown over time ruining everything they come in contact with.
A belt sander will work too, but in my experience it is more difficult to keep the face of the butt plumb with the belt surface. The stock will need to be moved to back and forth to engage the belt on the sander , where as the mitre saw will engage a stationary stock. Best of luck!
A belt sander will work too, but in my experience it is more difficult to keep the face of the butt plumb with the belt surface. The stock will need to be moved to back and forth to engage the belt on the sander , where as the mitre saw will engage a stationary stock. Best of luck!
