Recoil Bedding; Attempt on HMR

[Dean2]

Good picture of the scuffing around the rear tang. This is why we should bed the whole action.

I don't actually agree with bedding the whole action. I have bedded a great many rifles and have tried many different methods from Pillars, to full glass to full action glued in.

Afterr a lot of testing my go to is, from front of the mag well, recoil lug and 1.5" ahead of recoil lug, with no free play or taping of the lug, a Devcon pillar in the action screw, and then the Tang and the same Devon Pillar on the rear action screw. (Devcon Pillars are used if there isn't pillars already) This has worked best on most guns. I only vary this now if I find something unusual on a gun.

Whether I full length bed the barrel on sporter or lightweight barrels all depends on how the gun shoots after bedding lug and tang, shot free floated, then shot with a pressure point at the front.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm far from an expert, I've bedded maybe ten rifles so far, but I apply electrical tape to the bottom, sides, and front of the lug unless it's a Howa (& presumably a Vanguard although I've not done one of those) where I omit the tape on the bottom of the lug since the action screw hole is there. I want the action to be easy to remove when I do need to do that. If it is tight in the bedding then every time I R&R the action I'm wearing away a little bit of the bedding. As of when I worked behind a shop counter those who shot bedded M1A/M14's in competition are loathe to remove the action for any reason unless absolutely necessary because those actions need to be bedded tight and the R&R loosens the bedding on the action incrementally. If you don't plan to remove the action, then I see no harm in not taping the front or sides of the lug - and it quite possibly could help with group size. That last part is conjecture on my part.

As to what to use for the bedding material, I'll suggest that the topic be searched as it was well covered a year ago or so. There was a lot of good input, some based on desired properties, some based on what they've tried and didn't like.

 

[General RE LEE]

I'm far from an expert, I've bedded maybe ten rifles so far, but I apply electrical tape to the bottom, sides, and front of the lug unless it's a Howa (& presumably a Vanguard although I've not done one of those) where I omit the tape on the bottom of the lug since the action screw hole is there. I want the action to be easy to remove when I do need to do that. If it is tight in the bedding then every time I R&R the action I'm wearing away a little bit of the bedding. As of when I worked behind a shop counter those who shot bedded M1A/M14's in competition are loathe to remove the action for any reason unless absolutely necessary because those actions need to be bedded tight and the R&R loosens the bedding on the action incrementally. If you don't plan to remove the action, then I see no harm in not taping the front or sides of the lug - and it quite possibly could help with group size. That last part is conjecture on my part.

As to what to use for the bedding material, I'll suggest that the topic be searched as it was well covered a year ago or so. There was a lot of good input, some based on desired properties, some based on what they've tried and didn't like.

My apologies but what is "R&R"?

 

[Dean2]

My apologies but what is "R&R"?

Remove and Replace, which is actually a pretty rarefied concern as even ntsqd stated when he posted about it. Most hunting rifles come out of their stock every 3 or 4 years, at most annually for we OCD types. These aren't guns being used by police, the military etc that are stripped down every couple of days.

 

[General RE LEE]

Question. I ran a dollar bill between the barrel and stock this morning and everything is free floating till I get close to the recoil lug. I will confirm tonight if the barrel is contacting the bedding in front of lug. It's slightly raised to the bedding behind the lug. Will that be an issue if there is contact ahead of lug?

 

[Old Rooster]

I have not use Imperial Wax as it does not dry.I have used the suggestion of neutral color shoe polish and that works great.Also Johnson's Floor Wax. I bought a can of Johnson's Floor Wax back in the 80's and still have the can.Put it on and let it dry and put a second coat and let it dry and then buff it and I have never had a barreled action stick in the stock.The wife also uses it on wood furniture and can't use it up.
One other thing,if you ever have to dremel the J B Weld out you will never use it again,ask me how I know.

 

[ntsqd]

Remove and Replace, which is actually a pretty rarefied concern as even ntsqd stated when he posted about it. Most hunting rifles come out of their stock every 3 or 4 years, at most annually for we OCD types. These aren't guns being used by police, the military etc that are stripped down every couple of days.

Thank you, I tend to forget that some of the acronyms that I use aren't universally known.


Likewise I bought a can of Johnson's Paste Wax in the early 80's and I still haven't made much of dent in it.

 

[WapitiBob]

If you tape the front, sides, and btm of the recoil lug, you haven't bedded anything; it's sitting in space with zero containment.

 

[Rflshootr]

Is someone going to explain a proper bedding job to these folks?

 

[Dean2]

Is someone going to explain a proper bedding job to these folks?

Read the thread. We already have.

 

[ntsqd]

If you tape the front, sides, and btm of the recoil lug, you haven't bedded anything; it's sitting in space with zero containment.

We'll have to agree to disagree there. No point in debating it since we both know that we're right.

 

[Dean2]

We'll have to agree to disagree there. No point in debating it since we both know that we're right.

Well, there really isn't much to debate and this is not a matter of opinion. Having the rear of the rcoil lug tight is not nearly the same as a tight fit on all sides. Actions do not just torque rearwards under recoil. They torque in all directions and thus many of us have a strong preference for no slack anywhere.

 

[Hugnot]

Thank you although I am going to call it good. The recoil lug is now very tight in the bedded recess. With the action screws removed, there is zero back and forth and side to side movement, which ultimately is the objective. I also confirmed barrel is free floating. I will see how it shoots before starting over.

2nd attempt is just fine - no need to improve - but - should you do another bedding job I would recommend placing a layer of electrician's tape over the front surface of the recoil lug, this will provide about .007+ inch clearance when removed, where no contact is needed, and facilitate removal of gun from stock. This is just a matter of personal opinion.

JB Steel is good stuff!

Here are pics of my last efforts on wifey's .22-.250 that she uses to zap 3 inch steel at 300 yards at our local range. Maple stock, cherry fore end tip. The barrel is a McGowen. I had them recontour barrel from a #5 to #4 & extend the leade. The thinner barrel made for a .125 plus gap between stock & barrel. 1 & 1/2 packs of J-B Steel Weld filled the gap. 3 layers of electrician's tape or .021+ made for a nice gap between barrel & stock. The JB also made the stock more rigid. Kiwi shoe polish release agent.

JB was used to glue the cherry fore end to the maple. A 3/8 hole was drilled in the center of each piece, maple stock & cherry fore end, then a short piece of 1/4 dowel in hole, then a layer of JB between each piece with the 3/8 hole with 1/4 dowel filled with JB. Everything was then clamped with surgical tubing and allowed to set 10 hours. After that some wood rasp, scraping & sanding.

Wifey got this Martha Stewart cast iron pot - real pricey - it fell - chipped handle with exposed cast iron and chipped ceramic coating with gap. Nice pleasant pink color - sort of dusky. JB weld was used to fill the gap & make for a nice smooth gripping surface. Pot has been used to make cow meat stews at 350-400 degrees F for about 2 years & JB still looks good. If some epoxy is needed for an appropriate gun fix subjected to moderate heat, JB Steel will work.


Not perfect but a nice $15 close the gap amateur job.

What would happen if "precision" was incorrectly spelled?

 

[General RE LEE]

I was able to shoot about 40 rounds yesterday and results were mixed. Cleaned the bore down to the steel and rifle started to group once fouled but the bedding I believe affected group size once barrel was warm.

I am going to Dremel back some of the material that is in front of the lug to get more free float and try again. I believe once the barrel gets warm, that portion in front of lug messes with harmonics.